Top 20 2004 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Questions & Answers

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If the sensor is bad, it'll throw a PO374 error code. You DID check for any error codes, right? Turn the Ignition switch to the OFF position. Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position. Push in the odometer reset button and hold. Turn on the ignition switch and release the odometer reset button. The process has been completed correctly when the speedometer needle sweeps across the speedometer and all indicator lamps illuminate. The speedometer will also display "DIAG." Press the odometer reset button once. "PSSPt" will display on the speedometer. Each letter signifies an area of the diagnostics testing, with the current selection flashing. Push the odometer reset button to scroll through the components for testing. Press and hold the odometer reset button for 5 seconds, then release. Any codes stored will be displayed on the speedometer. If no codes are stored, the speedometer will display "NONE." Press the odometer reset button again to view additional codes, if any. After any codes, the part's serial number (in what ever component you're in) will scroll across. Record the codes and refer to your service manual (or post for others to look up) for possible faults or conditions. Turn off the Ignition switch to exit the diagnostics testing.

Tighten the rear axle nut to 60-65 ft.-lb. (81-88 N•m). Front axle nut FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF, FXSTB and FXSTD 50-55ft/lbs - 68-75 NM FLSTS and FXSTS 60-65ft/lbs- 81-88 NM Brake disc bolts Front wheel 16-24 ft/lbs- 22-32nm Rear wheel 30-45 ft/lbs- 41-61nm

Turn the Ignition switch to the OFF position. Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position. Push in the odometer reset button and hold. Turn on the ignition switch and release the odometer reset button. The process has been completed correctly when the speedometer needle sweeps across the speedometer and all indicator lamps illuminate. The speedometer will also display "DIAG." Press the odometer reset button once. "PSSPt" will display on the speedometer. Each letter signifies an area of the diagnostics testing, with the current selection flashing. Push the odometer reset button to scroll through the components for testing. Press and hold the odometer reset button for 5 seconds, then release. Any codes stored will be displayed on the speedometer. If no codes are stored, the speedometer will display "NONE." Press the odometer reset button again to view additional codes, if any. Record the codes and repost for possible faults or conditions. Turn off the Ignition switch to exit the diagnostics testing.

TPS that most likely is your problem the other thing to check is the head temp sensor they both will have the same symptoms.

code p0113-iat sensor voltage open/high

there is a circuit breaker in front of the rear wheel behind the plastic inner guard, it is a 30 amp circuit breaker which will cut the circuit to protect the charging system if there is an electrical fault and then automatically reset after a short time but will trip again if the electrical fault has not been repaired, that is the only fuse/circuit breaker that I know of for the charging system

tranny lubricant 99892-84

To remove a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST block motorcycle underneath the frame so that theweight of the motorcycle is off of the rear wheel, remove saddlebags if equipped, remove the belt guard and the debris deflector from the rear fork, inspect the wheel bearing end play and service the bearings if and as necessary, label the wheel spacers for left or right locationand orientation i.e. fork side or wheel side, remove the rear brake caliper from the caliper mount and support it using an elastic cord or such,For the FXCW/C modelsthe nut retainer will remain in the axle nut and does not need to be removed and if it is removed it must be replaced. For all but FXCW/C remove e-clip, remove the rear axle nut, and for FXCW/C remove the rear axle nut, loosen both axle adjuster screws an equal number of turns to remove tension from drive belt, with a suitable drift or other tool tap the axle towards the right side and remove it, remove the spacers and the caliper mounting bracket, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off of the sprocket, raise the motorcycle to allow enough clearance for removal of the rear wheel and pull the wheel with the belt sprocket from the rear fork. To install a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the axle, to the bearing bores and to the bore of the inner sleeve, roll the wheel into place in the rear fork and slide the drive belt over the drive sprocket, position the left bearing spacer between the wheel and the fork, from the right side carefully insert the axle (with its washer for FXCW/C models) through the right rear fork, the short spacer, the rear caliper mounting bracket, the long spacer and into the bearing bore, continue sliding the axle through the wheel hub sleeve, the left side spacer and the left rear of the fork, install the washer, the axle nut, and the retainer, verify correct axle alignment and the check belt deflection, check the wheel bearing end play after tightening the axle nut to the specified torque because excessive end play can adversely affect stability and handling and insufficient end play can cause bearing seizure, tighten the axle nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.5 Nm), install the belt guard and the debris deflector, install the brake caliper and pads, install the saddlebags, if equipped, pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against pads, verify the position of the brake pads against the brake disc, rotate the wheel to check for any interference(s) or misalignment(s) and test the brakes for proper operation.

If you have stock pipes you can't just remove the baffles . Some people on a budget will take a hammer and a Peace of pipe and knock out the piece that's blocking the center of the exhaust pipe which will give you more sound , but I don't recommend this I really recommend getting some slip ons.

check thru inspection cover

The procedure for tightening the head screws is critical. Start with bolt numbered one which for the front cylinder is the left side or spark plug side rear bolt then the left side or spark plug side front bolt which is the number 2 bolt then the rear right side bolt which is the number three bolt and then the front right side bolt which is the number four bolt AND tighten the head bolts in sequence from one to four in the following steps: Tighten each bolt to 96-120 in-lbs, then tighten each bolt to 13-15 ft-lbs, then loosen all bolts, then tighten three stages to: first stage tighten each bolt to 96-120 in-lbs; second stage tighten each bolt to 13-15 ft-lbs. THEN mark each cylinder head and head bolt shoulder with a reference line and tighten each bolt an additional 85-95 degrees. Start with bolt numbered one which for the rear cylinder is the left side or spark plug side front bolt then the left side or spark plug side rear bolt is number two then the front right side bolt is number three and then the rear right side bolt is number four AND tighten the head bolts in sequence from one to four in the above steps. 96-120 in-lbs = (11-14 newton meters) 13-15 ft-lbs = (18-20 newton meters)

Motorcycle voltage regulator connections must be clean and tight for proper operation so it must be verified that both the AC (stator) connections and the DC (battery supply side) connectors are clean, fully inserted and locked in place with the regulator latches (they should also be coated with dielectric grease to keep them clean and corrosion free). The motorcycle voltage regulator is a series regulator that is also a rectifier that changes stator supplied alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) which the battery system requires. If the charging system does not keep the battery properly charged both with regards to Voltage (between 13 VDC minimum and 15.5 VDC maximum) and the current supply at a high enough amperage to meet the system lighting, ignition, TSM/TSSM, security and accessory requirements plus a minimum of 3.5 more amps (3.5 amps more than the foregoing system requirements) there are a number of tests that can be done to ascertain why. As the voltage regulator must have a good, clean, tight (and otherwise secure) ground connection for proper operation a Voltage Regulator Ground Circuit Test can be accomplished by connecting an ohmmeter to a known good ground (like the battery negative post) and the case of the regulator. If there is continuity with little resistance the ground is GOOD and nothing more needs to be done BUT if there is NO continuity or there is more than minimal resistance the ground will need to be fixed so there is a low resistance continuity by either locating and fixing the poor ground or adding a new grounding wire from the regulator case to a know good ground. A Voltage Regulator Power Circuit Test can be accomplished by turning OFF the Ignition, disconnecting the voltage regulator and with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting, testing for continuity between the voltage regulator wire harness supply terminal and the main fuse terminal (with the fuse removed) and if there is continuity present then the wiring circuit here is GOOD but if there is NO continuity then you will need to either find the open and repair it or replace the whole wire running from the voltage regulator to the main fuse. As there should be no short circuit in the power supply from the regulator to battery (main fuse) wiring OR in the regulator internal circuitry continuity from these both need to be checked again with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting. If the regulator to main fuse wiring connector is not disconnected from the regulator you can connect an ohmmeter with one lead on the regulator supply wire terminal end at the main fuse (with the main fuse removed) and the other lead to a known good ground. If there is NO continuity then you know that both the supply wire and the regulator are okay (as there is no short to ground). BUT if there is continuity then either the regulator or wiring or both is/are shorted to ground. To determine where there is a short circuit (i.e. either the wiring or the regulator internal circuitry) you must disconnect the DC side of the wiring harness (the connector at the DC side of the regulator) from the regulator and test between either or both ends of the wire i.e. from the regulator wire harness connector terminal and a known good ground and/or the main fuse terminal end of the wire and a known good ground. If there is any continuity the wire is shorted to ground and the short circuit must be found and repaired or the wire must be completely replaced. If there is no such continuity then the regulator DC supply terminal (with the DC side of the regulator connector disconnected) must be tested by putting one lead of an ohmmeter on the regulator terminal and the other on a known good ground. If there is continuity the regulator is shorted to ground and must be replaced. If there is a short in the wiring it is unlikely BUT the regulator could ALSO be internally shorted so it should also be checked either before or after any wiring short is located and repaired. The voltage regulator must also properly regulate the rectified DC voltage supplied to the battery so that it is not less than 13 VDC or more than 15.5 VDC. If the regulator is not properly limiting supply voltage to the battery to 15.5 VDC or less it will be overcharging the battery. This can be tested for by operating the motorcycle engine at 3000 rpm while placing a voltmeter between the battery positive and negative posts and reading the supplied voltage. If the reading is greater than 15.5 VDC the regulator is defective and must be replaced. If the voltage is less than 15.5 VDC but more than 13 VDC the regulator and the rest of the charging system are operating correctly. If the supplied voltage is less than 13 VDC the AC side of the system must be tested and if the AC side is good but the supplied voltage at the battery is less than 13 VDC then the regulator is defective and must be replaced. If the AC side of the system is not providing correct AC supply then the stator must be tested and if it is bad, replaced and if it is good then the rotor inspected (cannot be electrically tested as it consists of permanent magnets but it could be inspected fro physical damage and roughly tested for strong magnetic force fields by using a ferrous metal object to see if the attraction of the magnets is strong or weak, but this is basically a better guess rather than a precise measurement). The rotor can also be physically inspected for physical signs of damage including signs of the center hole having become oval AND the stator bolts inspected for possibly having come loose and into contact with the rotor. AC Output Check Disconnect the voltage regulator connector from the alternator stator wiring and then connect an AC voltmeter across both stator sockets of a two wire stator, or if a three wire stator across two of the three for example 1 & 3 and then later you will repeat the test between 2 & 3 and later between 1 & 2. THEN run the engine at as close as possible in the circumstances to 2000 RPM. The AC output should be approximately 32-40 VAC, approximately 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM. If you have done a stator static test and the stator has proven to be in good mechanical condition and the AC output is below specifications, the charging problem is going to be a faulty rotor. If you have not done a static stator check yet and the AC output is less than as set out above it may be that the stator is defective and the static stator check will need to be done. While the regulator has nothing whatsoever to do with the alternator output, if the alternator output is good the regulator might be defective in either rectification or in limiting the output to the battery to under 15 VDC. If AC output is low and the stator has passed the static stator check then it is likely that the permanent magnets in the alternator rotor are weak. A permanent magnet can lose its magnetic strength if it is dropped or shocked such as letting it snap into place when being installed or possibly by use of an impact wrench to remove the compensator fastener etc.

Sounds like a bad breaker/relay.

2004 Touring Fork Oil Requirements FORK MODEL TYPE and AMOUNT in OZ. ML IN. MM Left FORK - All models except Road KingCartridge10.0 oz 295ML 4.21INCH 107mm Road King Conventional 11.1oz 328ml 5.24inch 133mm Right All modelsConventional11.1 oz 328ml 5.24inch 133mm WARNING Fork oil level in cartridge type forks is carefully measured from top of tube after pumping damper rod. Anydeviation from instructions can result in incorrect amount of fork oil. Incorrect amount of fork oil can adversely affect handling and lead to loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury.

I think you mean the engine management light. I do not know of a 'pump primer light' on any Harley. If this light is coming on when driving, and staying off when idling, then you have a problem which needs investigating. Golden rule, red light on - stop motor or damage iminent. Orange light on - needs looking at as soon as possible. check for historic DTC codes using speedometer and repost with these or bring bike to dealer.

Sorry you are reaching a Harley tech site and although I could tell you if I saw it I do not normally work on other than H-D bikes.

Better to check on a Porsche site for Porsche information

Undo the CKP wiring connector at the CKP, undo the one CKP fastener and pull it out and slip in a new one. and then replace the fastener and reconnectthe wirting harness.

Do you mean it dims or goes out and stays out while the bike is running or it blows a fuse OR?????????????