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2004 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 8 Questions & Answers
I have a 03 honda
I'm sorry but I know absolutely nothing about your Sabre. If someone told you to drain the primary, they must have thought you were working on a Harley. On a Harley, you must drain the oil out of the primary so you can remove the outer primary cover to get to the starter jackshaft. It get an answer for your Honda question, you'd be better off to post that on the Honda board rather than the Harley forum. I'd tell you if I knew how but all my experience is with Harleys. Sorry.
Good Luck
Steve
I have a 2005 HD FLHTCUI does this bike have
Yes, you bike has oil in three seperate areas. The engine, primary, and the transmission. I'm assuming you know how to check the oil level in your engine because you didn't ask. It's the large knurled cap on the corner of the transmission with the LONG dipstick.
To check you transmission. look for the chrome clutch release mechanism on the right side of the bike. If you can't find it, simply follow the clutch cable until you get to where it goes into the transmission, that's it. In that cover, there is a large plug that requires a 3/8" Allen or Hex key to remove. It has a dipstick on it. Keep the fluid level between the two marks. Check the level with the bike standing straight up.
To check the primary level, remove the derby cover and stand the bike straight up. The oil level must be no higher than the lowest point on the Clutch Spring. The aluminum outer clutch basket is made of bright aluminum, the clucth spring is a darker colored steel disc. Fill the oil no higher than the bottom of this disc. If you do, the clutch will drag and you will not be able to find neutral with the engine running.
Good luck
Steve
I was changinf fluids on
Your bike has oil in three seperate areas. The engine, primary, and the transmission.To check the oil level in your engine it's the large knurled cap on the corner of the transmission with the LONG dipstick.
To check transmission fluid look for the chrome clutch release mechanism on the right side of the bike. If you can't find it, simply follow the clutch cable until you get to where it goes into the transmission, that's it. In that cover, there is a large plug that requires a 3/8" Allen or Hex key to remove. It has a dipstick on it. Keep the fluid level between the two marks. Check the level with the bike standing straight up.
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To check the primary level, remove the derby cover and stand the bike straight up. The oil level must be no higher than the lowest point on the Clutch Spring. The aluminum outer clutch basket is made of bright aluminum, the clucth spring is a darker colored steel disc. Fill the oil no higher than the bottom of this disc. If you do, the clutch will drag and you will not be able to find neutral with the engine running.
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Changing fluids is good, but a mere portion of the things that need to be checked, adjusted, tightened and lubed.The plug at the bottom rear of the primary cover is the primary chain-case drain.You should not remove this cover unless it is leaking or you need to get into the primary chain-case to adjust the primary chain or for something else. fresh fluids are added through the derby cover (clutch inspection cover) and the primary chain tension is inspected through the rectangular cover near the heel shifter.On the bottom of the transmission case you will find the engine oil drain plug at the front, lower edge, facing the engine.The transmission drain plug is on the right side of the oil pan and up near the frame rail.You may need an inspection mirror to find it.You will need 1 qt of primary chain-case lubricant for the primary, 4 qts of engine oil for the engine (through the dipstick hole) and 20-24 oz's of gear lube through the Allen plug on the top right side of the transmission side cover add about half then check the level. Ease up on the fill mark. If you over fill it, the excess will blow out the transmission vent.Do not put engine oil in your transmission. It does have adequate shear strength to protect the gears.--------- The transmission oil goes in through the plug on the right hand side of the bike the clutch cable enters underneath.Fill primary oil in through the rectangular cover near the heel shifter.---------------
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Keep blowing fuse on fender
You will boil your battery with 18 Volts on it but that won't blow your fuse. I would look for chafed wires or the light socket itself.
How do i repair the
You take it to a dealer to have it done. You can get the lock out but there is a special tool used to align the mechanism before reinstalling the lock.
Good Luck
Steve
I need to replace the two covers over the fork
You have to remove the top end cap on the tubes at the upper triple tree. The tubes theoretically do slide out of the lower triple tree but don't count on it. The parts you're talking are are called "cow bells" in most circles. Usually made of stainless steel.
Good luck
Steve
HOW DO I REMOVE IGNITION SWITCH/FORK LOCK?
Look under the switch knob for a small square pin sticking down. You need to push this pin up while turning the key to the left, and pushing this pin in will allow the lock cylinder to turn which releases the tab that holds the entire ignition knob into the bike. I usually push this tab with one of those small pocket screwdrivers. re-Installing the switch can be a real pain unless you make sure not to move anything while it is out, and even then the first time will be rather frustrating. Let me know if you need more help re-installing it.
HOW DO I REMOVE FORK LOCK UNIT ON A HARLEY
You don't want to. It takes a special tool to keep the lock in proper alignment. You can get the lock out but then you won't be able to get it back in. Best left to someone that has experience and the tool.
Good Luck
Steve
How do I remove the
To remove the starter, first disconnect the battery. Then remove everything from the right side of the bike so that you can gain access to the starter.
Go to the left side of the bike and drain the primary and remove the cover. Remove the small bolt that holds the "starter jackshaft" on and remove the jackshaft.
Go back to the right side of the bike and disconnect the battery cable from the starter and the small wire from the starter relay. Remove the two large bolts that hold the starter on and remove the starter.
Good luck
Steve
Starter shaft keeps breaking.. gone thru two ,
I assume you're talking about the starter jackshaft. I'd suspect that there is a misalignment between the starter and the bushing in the outer primary. I'm reluctant to say this but you may have to pull the dowel pins out of the inner primary that are supposed to align the outer primary up with the inner. I've heard of them being improperly placed causing this misalignment.
Now, if for some reason you have the inner primary off, you may can bolt the inner and outer together without the starter on the inner and take it to a machine shop to have the alignment checked. I've never done this but I had one checked once. The machinist cuts a bar or tube that fits the jackshaft support bearing in the outer primary. It's long enough to protude up through the starter hole in the inner primary. With this, he checked the alignment of the primary covers. You may can just use the jack shaft to check it with, I have never tried that. I've done one like this but I can't say that I fixed it because the guy has not come back with another broken jackshaft. I think he would if he broke another one.
Good luck
Steve
My instrument panel fuse blew, I replaced it and
Only reason why a fuse blows is either a short in the cuircuit or wire somewhere, or something is drawing to much power. Suggestions I would take is if anything was added since problem, disconnect it and see if fuse pops then. If nothing added, carefully inspect wires coming to and from fuse center to see if any wires are shortening on any metal surface. And also try a part that is connected to that circuit may be shorting. Sorry can be anymore of help, that would be the first places I would start.
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