20 Most Recent 2002 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger Questions & Answers

Yes not in the hand peace but on the carb/throttle body. They place it there as a safety shut off if a cable was to brake.

Making More Horsepower

1. Full throttle only, on hot days, at low rpm. Carburetor is a bit lean in needle seat or main jet. Not too serious. We all have this problem sometimes.
2. Full throttle only, on hot days, at mid or high rpm. Carburetor is a bit lean in needle seat or main jet. This is more serious. Get on this problem soon.
3. Happens even while cruising at a constant speed. Carburetion is way too lean, or compression ratio is too high, or the gas you just bought is Tijuana special, cut with #2 diesel. Pull off the road, call for a trailer. This is big time serious.

Black smoke on full throttle acceleration. Main jet is too rich. Grey smoke on full throttle acceleration. Bad valve guide seals, or bad rings. The engine was mis-assembled. Grey smoke when you start the engine, particularly when cold. Bad valve guide seals. The engine was mis-assembled. Ticking sound which goes faster and slower as the engine does.

1. Bad spark plug connection to ignition coil (pray this is it).
2. Stuck lifter.
3. Improper valve to valve clearance, or improper valve to piston clearance.

Engine misses at idle or full throttle acceleration. Bad connection from ignition coils to spark plugs. Truly crummy gas mileage, as in less than 40 when cruising, or less than 35 around town.

1. Too much cam duration. You're blowing gas out your exhaust pipes.
2. Carburetor is way too rich, especially in the midrange.
3. Accelerator pump on carburetor is adjusted too aggressively.

What items do you want to tighten? You need to be specific.

Inside the tank,on the petcock.

check for a break in the wiring on the left side of handlebar where wiring exits switch housing,sounds like wire(from headlight switch/signals) arcing to a ground(possibly handlebar)

Should be on the neck of frame along with the vin.#

By explosions, I'm going to assume that you're talking about the engine is spitting back out the carburator when you try to accelerate. This is usually caused by either a stopped up jet or a bad accelerator pump. More likely the later.

To check the accelerator pump for proper operation, Remove the air cleaner cover and the air filter element so you can see into the throat of the carb. Now, with the engine OFF and the fuel turned on, crank the throttle grip to wide open. When you do this, you should see a stream of gasoline squirt into the carb out of a brass piece just inside of the throat of the carb. It will quit then you stop turning the throttle. Then you'll have to back the throttle off and turn it again to get it to squirt again. If it does not squirt, the accelerator is bad.

To fix the accelerator pump, it is best to remove the float bowl from the bottom of the carb. Turn off the fuel at the petcock. Take the four bolts that hold the float bowl on out and lower the float bowl. Pour the fuel out of the bowl and turn it completely over. Take the two remaining screws out of the accelerator pump and remove the cover. Under the cover is a spring and a diaphragm. The diaphragm should be replaced, and pay particular attention to what way it goes in. One side has a ridge on it. This ridge goes into the groove around the accelerator pump housing in the float bowl. Before assembling the accelerator pump, check the passages in the float bowl for obstructions. Put the new diaphragm in with the spring and install the cover with the two screws.

Now, replace the float bowl on the bottom of the carb making sure you align the accelerator pump push rod with it's passageway. Slide the float bowl all the way up to the bottom of the carb body and install the four screws. This should repair your accelerator pump.

If the pump is not the problem, you could have either a stopped up jet or a punctured slide diaphragm. To repair either of these requires the removal and complete disassembly of the carb. good Luck

There are two clutch adjustments you can make. The easiest is under the rubber boot on your clutch cable, adjust that so you only have about an eigth of an inch of play on the lever. If that doesn't fix it the next adjustment is under the ball and ramp, lossen the clutch cable completely, remove the derby cover, disconnect the clutch cable from the ball and ramp then remove ball and ramp. You should now see a post with a slot in it, take a screw driver and snug it down then back it off about a quarter turn. Now just reassemble everything. If you still have the slipping problem you need a new clutch basket.

Replacement would be a cleaner choice. You may be able to find a good used lever cheap via the web >

Google " motorcycle salvage harley davidson "

use a 3/8 ratchet with the torx bit and rest a little pressure on it and you fine Do not over tighten no not use loctie even and snug