20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider - Page 4 Questions & Answers

it's on the left side just under the edge of the seat behind the coil. Just pull the cover off it is held on with rubber gromets. Don't do like I did on my FXDWG and take screws out you will find they only hold the pins that go into the rubber :)

The choice of spark plugs is a personal preference type of thing. I like NGK spark plugs because of the consistant high quality of the spark plugs. I've never had a problem with NGK, others I have.

Good Luck
Steve

Well, take the battery out and take it to an automotive parts store. They can do a load test on the battery. They usually do this for free.

Good Luck
Steve

There is no single "best setting". It depends on you and your riding style. Heavier riders sometimes need a stiffer suspension. Same goes with those that do a lot of "Two Up" riding. Some riders seem to prefer a stiffer suspension because of their riding style. While others want the nice soft ride. The adjustment of the shocks is a personal type adjustment. Just try different positions under different conditions until you find the best for you.

Good Luck
steve

First, check the battery, Take it to an automotive parts house and ask them to "load test" the battery. They'll usually do this free. Then check all the connections and make sure they are clean and tight. Follow the red wire, not the large battery cable, to the main fuse or breaker and make sure the fuse is not blown or the breaker tripped.

Good Luck
steve

at my shop we do not feel it is nessasary to replace everytime. we replace them if they show any damage or every 3rd change to be safe.

remove the bulbs and check voltage at the sockets, if power is getting to the sockets i suspect you have lost ground connection

It's probably the compensator sprocket. Drain the primary and take the cover off. Check to make sure the engine sprocket nut is not loose. It should torque to 150-165 foot pounds. Check the adjustment of the primary chain. In the middle of the top run, it should have 5/8 to 7/8 inch up and down travel when the engine is cold.

The compensator has a "spring cup" on the outside where the nut is. If you can turn this cup by hand when the nut is tight, the springs inside of it have lost their tension. The cup must be replaced.

Good Luck
Steve

Check the output of your voltage regulator. To do this, use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). Connect the red meter lead to the positive terminal and the black meter lead to the negative terminal. Put the meter's function switch in the "DC volts, 20 volt or higher range". Start the bike up and bring it to a fast idle. You should be reading between 14.5 and 14.8 volts. Any higher and your battery is being overcharged. If this is the case, replace the voltage regulator.

If the voltage is reading correctly, you may have a battery that is about ready to give up the ghost. I'd take it to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test it for me. Usually, they'll do this at no charge. If the battery is over two years old, it's possible that it's getting ready to fail.

Good Luck
Steve

There are two drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission. One is the engine oil and the other is the transmission. Drain the two oils from there. The primary oil drain is a small pipe plug underneath the lowest part of the primary drive cover.

The engine holds three quarts of oil, the transmission holds 20-24 ounces of oil, and the primary hold 36-42 ounces of oil. Fill the primary until the oil level is just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. If you get too much oil in the primary, the clutch will drag and you will be unable to find neutral with the engine running.

Good Luck
Steve

Follow the clutch cable down until you find the cable adjuster near the down tubes of the frame. Slide the rubber bellows up or down to expose the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the adjuster inwards making the cable as short as possible. While you're there, put some sort of water proof lubricant on the threads of the adjuster. Just enough to keep it from corroding.

Go up to the lever and take the pivot pin out. It usually has an "E" clip on the bottom side of it. Work the cable with the lever out though the slot in the stanchion. Lubricate the new lever with white lithium grease and install in the stanchion. Replace the pivot pin and "E" clip.

Go back to the adjuster and adjust the adjuster outwards until you have about an 1/8" of free travel at the clutch lever.

Hope this helps.
Good Luck
Steve

It sounds like the carburetor is running out of gas. If you have the original petcock on the tank, you MUST have the vacuum line connected. When the engine starts up, vacuum from the carburetor is applied to the vacuum diaphragm in the petcock and opens the petcock. Without vacuum on the petcock, the only fuel you will get to the carb is if the needle valve in the petcock leaks.

Now, you said you had the tank painted. This is the clue. Painters pay a lot of attention to the outside of the tank but NONE to the inside. I would guess that the screen on the inside of your tank is completely blocked with small chips of paint or sanding material.

Replace the vacuum operated petcock. It's a "Motorhike" waiting to happen. A "motorhike" what you do when your bike quits and you wind up pushing it. I've seen too many of these things leave people stranded with a full tank of fuel but not a drop in the carb. Replace the OEM petcock with a high quality manually operated petcock like the old timers use. A Pingle is a very good choice. If you want to save a few bucks, check on the price of an OEM petcock for a 1995 or earlier model. Block the vacuum line off and I'd advise an inline fuel filter. Buy the sintered metal type filter that can be cleaned. These filters come in Chrome, and a few anodized colors as well.

See if this helps.
Steve

The last guy that wrote in here with the vibration problem was told his crank is shot!!! These are fairly new bikes, how do you get a bad crank shaft?? Somebody is screwing up. I was thinking that his cam timing was out of whack so it would miss and cause vibration like a funny car. But he didn't believe that one. Anyway, check it out. You might have to get a new bottom and swap your jugs and heads over to the new engine. Or just part out the old one and get a whole new engine. Hope this helps.

Check (test) all fuses, replace any that are bad.

Cold engine starts and these symptoms are common, cause? Lean running at start thanks to EPA, wait a few minutes until you feel heat in heads of engine, then easy throttle until fully warm.

Put the gasket on dry and torque the 1/4" bolts to 7-9 foot pounds. Transmission takes 20-24 ounces of Syn3 20W50 oil or H-D semi-synthetic trans lub.

Good Luck.

just left of the battery housing are two bolts one holds the other will lower the battery box so you can take the cover and side off, to replace the battery remove the neg. cable off bike then remove pos. off battery pull battery out then remove neg. off battery

Check all the bolts connected to the frame, make sure all have been removed then see if anything else is obstracting it.

this could be a loose wire (bk/w) goes to the ignition module which is behind the fuse panel

Try checking the electrical connections. You'll need to unscrew the chrome hex bolt - - u should be able to carefully lift out the entire assembly - Unplug the speedo and check for any bared wires - wrap them if u find any of them.. then make sure the plug is clean and tight - This will fix most of the speedo problems unless its the speedo cable