20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Classic - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Oil tank and primary cover have to be removed the are two Alan head bolts on oil bag side and one 5/16 bolt on the primary side remove battery wires first then starter wires and pull it out hope it helps

Find the speedometer sensor on the rear of your transmission. Remove the bolt and pull the sensor out. Wipe any small metallic shavings off the sensor. If this doesn't work, the speedometer is probably bad. I don't know of any way to test either unit other than substituting a known good part.

Good Luck
Steve

The Softail series of H-D motorcycles are heavy machines. Much heavier than the Dyna series bike. Due to this, their acceleration is on the sluggish side. There are two things you can do. You can either do some performance modifications on your engine or you can change the final gearing on your bike. Since this post is saying that this is a 2001 model bike, it leads me to think that you are not the original owner of the bike. If this is the case, check the final gearing on the bike as a previous owner may have changed the gearing to lower the RPM's of the engine at highway speeds. It should have a 31 tooth front pulley and a 70 tooth rear pulley. A lot of owners change the final gearing to "international" gearing to lower the engine speeds. They'll change to a 65 tooth rear pulley. This requires that the belt be changed as well. Some change the front pulley to a 32 tooth to do the same thing. This will cause the bike to feel sluggish on acceleration. The only other thing that would cause the bike to be sluggish is the carburetor could be jetted too rich if the engine is equipped with a carb.

I seam to remember a problem w/ that year or years.fuses. Id ask that ? at harleytalking.com they have helped me....

It sounds like one of two things. One, the jets in the carb may be clogged. The way you're describing it, it sounds like the main jet in the carb is clogged. You're running off the slow speed jet. When you open the choke (enricher) you're adding a bit more fuel and air improving the performance a bit. If it's te carb, it needs to be completely disassembled and soaked in a professional quality carb cleaner and thoroughly gone through to ensure all passageways are clear.

The next problem is the exhaust system. I've seen bikes do this before when changing a camshaft. Remove a stock cam and install a high performance cam and the bike will no longer run. The reason is that the baffles in the exhaust system were so restrictive that the engine could no longer "breathe" with them in there. Removed the baffles and the engine ran fine but was too loud for the owner's liking. We replaced the stock system with a free flowing high performance muffler system and the bike ran great.

Good Luck
Steve

If you'll contact me directly at [email protected], I'll send you what I have on the turn signal module. Now, Harley changed the module but I don't know what year they did it. Anyway, I have a pin out for the early module and a trouble shooting guide. Maybe it'll help. No charge of course. Just remind me of what you need as I get lots of these request. I'd send it here but they limit me to 150Kb maximum file size.

Steve

Sounds like bad fuel, but could be deeper, change fuel and filters, plugs are probably fouled now
take and clean or replace I would replace . Also cheveron gas is the best gas if you have fuel injection & carbs as well , because it has techron . If you have carbs it could be a bad diaphragm

You can run a daignostic through your speedometer and it will give you a code.
Tell your local dealer what the code is and they will be able to tell you what is means.
If you have your manual, it will tell you the codes as well.

Turn your key off, hold the trip odometer button in and turn the key on while holding that butuon in for a least 5 secionds. You'll notice that it is in daignostic mode because it should blink.
Write each code down. there will be about 8 - 10 codes for example: P3201
If you have the manual, you can also clear the codes, which ultimately shuts off the engine light.

Take a look at this page, hope this helps.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5556684_pull-engine-codes-harley-davidson.html

If you don't have either a front nor rear brake light, the odds are that there is something wrong at the pressure switch under your bike.

Find the rear master cylinder. There's a metal brake line going to the rear of the bike from the master cylinder. Follow this line and you'll find a "tee" fitting with a pressure switch screwed into it. It has at least two wires attached to it. Make sure these wires are properly connected. One wire should be "hot" when the ignition switch is on. If not, you may have an electrical problem. If you jumper the wires together, the brake light should come on.

Good Luck
Steve

On the stock shocks, you loosen the lock nut and turn the shock shaft to adjust the shocks. Once you get them where you want them, lock the locknut back down.

Good luck
steve

You have two brake light switches. Neither one have an "adjustment" on them per se. I would suspect the pressure switch underneath the bike. Find the rear brake master cylinder. There will be a metal brake line coming out it. Follow this brake line and you will come to a tee in the line with a brake light pressure switch in it. Odds are, this is your problem. They cost about $15 and you simply screw your old one out and put the new one in. No problem. Hope this helps.

Good Luck
steve

most probablyif it was really dry, no acid left, and the plates will be corroded

it means that there is a historic trouble code stored in the ecm. at some point some thing went wrong and the system recorded it. it can any be checked and cleared by someone with harleys digital tech program.

Not a lot of information but I assume you're asking about some noise in the top end of your engine on your Heritage.

A Harley-Davidson engine is of an older design being that the valves are pushrod operated. It is not an overhead cam design like a lot of other bikes that try to look like Harleys. Harley has decided to stick with this design for as long as they can because it lends itself to what most Harley riders are looking for in their bikes, the traditional look lines and sound of the older motorcycles.

As such, there are a lot of components in the top end that must have some "running clearance" in order to operate. Push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm bushings, and such. A slight clatter or tapping noise in not uncommon. Now, it the noise if loud enough to make people turn their heads when you start the bike, you may have a problem. Usually a serious problem in the top end of the engine results in a poorly running engine as well.

You engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets. As the engine runs and things start to expand, the tappets are "pumped up" with oil to maintain a "zero clearance" in the valve train. If you have a tappet gone bad, it will make a loud erratic tapping noise that is sometimes accompanied by a bad running engine. You could have lost a roller on the end of a tappet as well. The Twin Cam engine was designed to help remedy the problem with the valve train geometry in the Evolution and earlier engines. It did straighten the pushrods up a bit but I still think it's possible to lose a tappet roller. If the noise is this loud, you will have to pull the tappet blocks and inspect the tappets to see if you have lost a roller.

Good Luck
Steve

worn or cracked rings or an oil system that is not breathing properly.

Your ignition system has it's own fuse. Check that to see if it's blown.

Hi! It may just a simply fuel flooding. I suggest that you replace the spark plugs for better fuel burning and the plug wires for better current supply to the plugs. This can burn all the stuck fuel. Hope this helps and have a good one!

1. Using a suitable lift, support motorcycle under frame until
rear tire is slightly off the ground.
2. Remove bolt and washer (1) attaching shock to rear fork.
NOTE
Snap-on adapter, Part No. SRES24, is necessary to gain
access to shock bolt.
3. Remove flange locknut (5) and washer with grommet (4)
at front of shock.

The sending unit in the tank is prolly kaput.