20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Check for a coil breaking down when hot BUT also install new plugs first.

Could be a coil breaking down.

yzf sounds like Suzuki not HD????

If it is carburetted the screen is in the shutoff valve. If it is EFI the filter will be in the fuel tank with the fuel pump.

Idle is likley set too low.

It all depends where it is leaking from. Wash and dry it all off and spray it with Tinactin foot powder then run it and check where the oil starts staining the foot powder, the when you know where the leak is originating from it can be determined what needs to be done where to fix it.

In order to answer this question a person needs to know what the problem or symptoms are: DO you think the injectors are leaking or letting too much fuel into the intake or plugged or not opening and thereby starving the engine of fuel. You can test whether or not an injector is receiving an electrical current (signal to fire) by using a special test light (NOID LIGHT) that plugs into the injector connector and lights up when a current is passed to it. If the engine is getting fuel and running but not running properly and you do not have a way to check whether or not the engine is running rich or lean it will be important to know if any of the engine components (cams etc) have been changed such that larger etc. injectors are needed OR have larger or smaller than required injectors been installed etc. AND has the computer been programmed for any physical engine changes. All of this is important because VE (volumetric efficiency) (how much air the engine ingests in given conditions) controls all engine operation and efficiency. A mass airflow EFI engine only knows what amount of air is entering the engine at any given time if it is told that, it cannot measure that. Therefore engineers have to compute what amount of air an engine will ingest with air density, engine combustion chamber size, when and how long the valves are open etc etc and then program that into a computer, and depending on that information, a desired injector orifice size, fuel pressure and pulse width need to be determined and mapped into the computer as well. Fuel injection is VERY dependent on fuel pressure and the pulse width (the time the injector is open) will be determined by that as the amount of fuel that is discharged will vary by how much pressure is pushing fuel out the injector, how large the injector hole is and how long the injector hole is open i.e. because more fuel will be discharged in a given amount of time from a larger hole under greater pressure and less fuel will be discharged in the same amount of time if either the fuel pressure is lower or the hole is smaller. Thus with a fixed fuel pressure and a fixed injector orifice size, if the amount of air being ingested into the engine requires more or less fuel to provide the optimum air/fuel ratio, the only way to do it is for the computer to keep the injector open a longer or a shorter period of time. SO, you need to accurately determine the fuel pressure your system requires and is producing. If an injector is leaking you can tell that by a look into the induction module. If it is leaking it is not closing when it should not be open. If the injector is getting a signal to open and not doing that there would be no fuel to burn so spraying some into the induction module would indicate this is the problem if the engine would then start. There are really no available injector fuel flow testers which leaves the best or only way to test that the injector is opening properly and releasing the required amount of fuel with a correct fuel pressure and pulse width is likely to replace the injector which would both answer the question and solve this problem if the problem is a partially plugged or somewhat sticking injector.

Under the frame near the rear on the exhaust side, it will have an Allen key hole in the middle of the drain plug, you can use a socket on the nut or an Allen key to remove it

Under the exhaust side of the bike frame near the rear, it is a hex head bolt with a Allen key hole in the middle of it

Lift the bike. Check both wheel rims and tires for roundness and trueness. Check for wheel bearing looseness. Check sidewalls for bulges and bead seating. Check steering head bearing tightness.

Either the square part of the cable that screws into speedometeris rounding or you have a break in your cable ,take off and check,will be one or the other not to many things can go wrong with these..

First you check that the left turn signal and brake switch wiring haven't been switched. I presume brakes and turn indicators use different bulbs. Then you check for shorted wires from wear or crushing where they go from headlight

After reading your description, two ideas come to mind. If you have bench tested your master cylinder and it does not leak down. You have checked all fittings, lines, and master cylinder for leaks, and there are none. Then would suspect an issue with the rear brake caliper. You mentioned that you replaced the rear rotor due to it warping. I am curious to know why it warped? Raise the rear wheel off of the ground and spin the wheel. It should spin freely. Then apply and release the brake, to that wheel (a few times). After releasing the brakes, spin the wheel again. Does the wheel still spin freely? If it doesn't then I would check the brake pedal (see if it is releasing freely or binding), check the brake lines (see if there are and defects, flat spots, or kinks), and check the rear brake caliper (do all the cylinders retract with little resistance?) If the wheel does spin freely then I would check to see if you are using the correct type of brake fluid. Most bikes will require you to use DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid. If you substitute for a cheaper grade, it will affect the braking system. It may sound silly but I would double check that you are not accidentally resting you foot on the brake pedal. If that was happening, it would cause the brakes to fade. I hope that helps but If you have other details or question, let me know.

Change engine and tranny oil. Check tire pressure and tire tread depth, for cuts etc. Clean air with compressed air or replace air clean. Check bike over all for loose parts. GO FOR ARIDE :)

13' apes? Do you ride with a ladder on the seat?

It's possible that it could be but it is also possible that it could be trouble. It simply depends on what is causing it.

With almost 10K miles on the bike, I'm assuming that you still have the original tire on the bike. It could be time for a new tire. Make sure you're running the proper amount of air in your tire, 30 PSI. Just that simple.

Then again, it could be something in need of adjustment on the front end. This is a job that I would leave to a dealer or at least a qualified service technician. Check all torques on the bolts and nuts on the front end. If you don't know the proper torque or have a torque wrench, just make sure everything is tight.

There could be a number of things going on here. First check your oil level if it is lower than normal you could have a sumping issue going on here. Next is to pull your air filter off so you can see your injectors, turn the ignition on and off 5 or 6 times to make sure your injectors are not leaking. While you have the air filter off look inside the throttle body with the trottle plate open and see if the IAC pintle is moving in and out when you turn the ignition on and off.This only controls cold ilde. If all is good you will have to reset the TPS.

check the whole circuit with a voltmeter or test light.

It is in the Bike manual, available from Haynes, Clymer and Harley.

which code reader?Here is code reader you can check.