20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Well, it probably has a fuse but there could be more on that fuse than just the alarm. With thieves getting more aggressive, I fear disconnecting it is a bad idea. A friend had neighbors complaining that his car alarm kept going off. so he quit setting it. A few nights later someone broke in stole the fancy radio, the air bag, and the seats. They were deliberately causing the alarm to go off. Eventually when it didn't go off, they knew they were safe to steal all the good stuff. If the alarm is causing problems, the dealer might be able to loosen the parameters on the sensors. I would give that a try first.

This could get messy. There is a bolt at the rear of the tank that is covered by the seat. That has to come out and I'm betting the seat has to come off to get at it. I don't have a manual for the king, mine is for the wide glide. But the gas line has to come off, make sure the fuel valve is in the off position or you might have gas pouring out. There is a bolt on left and right front lower side of tank which fastens into the frame or a tab on the frame. There are tricky fasteners that hold the wires into the gauges so have a helper to hold the tank while you remove the wires. If you aren't careful you will damage wires or scratch the tank or the frame. Good luck with this. I had a helper when I pulled the tank off my wide glide and was glad to have him there. It will lighten the tank a lot if you can drain it first. But, if yours has the vacuum operated valve you will have to use an external source of vacuum to make it stay open. A brake bleeder might be enough to do it. Pull the hose off the valve and connect an extra hose to a five gallon gas can. so long as you apply vacuum to that valve it should let gas run. Oops, almost forgot that. You need to remove that vacuum line too so you don't rip it off when you lift the tank. A friend had one of those valves fail. He had a full tank of gas but no gas could get through to the engine. Needless to say, I replaced mine with a manually operated valve and plugged the vacuum hose that goes to the carb. Hope this helps you. Be careful and best of luck.

Best to buy a service manual. Too long a process for me to set it out here.

You need special o-rings from H-D parts and then need small screwdrivers or like tools to replace them. Often there is trouble with this and people end up with a new tank fitting which requires disassembly of the tank top, removal of the fuel pump and filer etc. etc.

Check DTCs and it will probably have P0505 set. That is the IAC code.

Check fuse to passing lamps and low beam element for headkight

Well, these things do wear out, yes.

Touring engine oil drain plug is on the left hand side front of the oil pan facing the front.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the battery cable and the small 50 cable from the starter.Drain oil from primary and remove the cover Remove the two starter bolts (1/4 inch Allen) and remove the starter from the right side.

Depends on your skill and experience level - anywhere from an hour on up.

Sounds like it is running lean. The ECM must be remapped for a performance breather and/or free flowing pipes. I would use H-D Super Tuner or have a dealer do a digital download to remap the ECM properly for the changes you have obviously made. You may do great harm to your engine if you run it without the mapping change as the VE will be changed and the ECM doe not know what is physically going on with VE if it is not mapped into the ECM

Carburetted H-D motorcycles use a vacuum operated shut off valve and one position on the valce is a reserve position. EFI have no such.

Is it good above this rpm range or not. Check for trouble codes. 2001 TOURING Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) and Fault Conditions DTC NO. FAULT CONDITION 12 MAP sensor 16 Battery voltage 24 Front ignition coil 25 Rear ignition coil 35 Tachometer 41 Crank sensor 44 Bank angle sensor (within TSM/TSSM) detects possible theft attempt 52 RAM failure 53 ROM failure 54 EPROM failure 55 Ignition module failure Battery condition and connections may cause misfires. Inspect for corrosion at battery terminals, main circuit breakers, ignition fuse terminals (GY and R/BK), right handlebar connector [22] and coil connector. Fuel system problems may cause misfires. Spark Plugs OFTEN cause misfires, even plugs that look good. If carbon tracking is evident, replace them. Spark Plug Wires may cause misfires - Front/rear 20 in. 5,000-11,666 ohms. Wires must be clean and tight. Excessive wire resistance or faulty connections can cause coil damage. If carbon tracking is evident, replace the ignition coil and inspect the spark plug wires. Spark plug wire connectors can corrode and should always be coated with dielectric grease to prevent this. If there is any corrosion replace the corroded parts. Coils may break down and cause misfires but not usually at a given rpm range only. Coil testing can be performed by substituting a known good coil for one causing the no spark condition. The coil does not require full installation to be functional. Verify a possibly faulty coil by performing a resistance test. Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals (primary) on your coil. Using a good ohmmeter on Rx1 setting, test the resistance between the two small terminals. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad. Before you do this test short out both leads of the ohmmeter and if the reading is not zero you will need to write down or otherwise remember the number and subtract it from the reading you get from the primary circuit test or you will have an incorrect resistance reading for the primary wires because you will also be reading the ohmmeter internal resistance and/or the wire and lead resistance added to the primary wiring resistance. You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replacing the other side (ground side) with a short piece of wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" (ground) side. When you take the wire away from the ground, (which will collapse the primary current into the secondary) you should see a spark at the plugs if it is a wasted spark system or at one of the plugs if it is not a wasted spark system. If you have current to both sides of the primary of a two part coil both plugs should get a spark whether wasted spark system or not as you are energizing both sides of the primary and collapsing both into both secondaries at the same time when you remove the ground wire from the cylinder head ground. Take the plugs out of the cylinder heads and lay them back on it so that they have a good ground. Then watch the spark plugs closely when you turn the ignition switch off. You should see a single spark on each plug. This tell you that the coil is getting fire and that it is good and your problem lies elsewhere. You get a spark on both plugs because it is a wasted spark system that fires both plugs simultaneously, one on power stroke and the other on exhaust stroke. This will not work on 2006 and later EFI as there will be no spark with both plugs removed. Manifold leak Spray water around induction module seals with engine idling. If RPM changes, change seals. Improper fuel system pressure may contribute to one of the following conditions: 1.Cranks, but won't run. 2. Cuts out (may feel like ignition problem). 3. Hesitation, loss of power or poor fuel economy. Fuel pressure must be a steady running pressure of 55 to 62 psi (380 to 425 kPa). Plugged, dirty air cleaner may cause rich misfire. Plugged/dirty fuel filter may cause lean misfire.

Clean all oil from the bike exterior. Leave it sitting in an upright position for a period of time. This may require a bike lift or other such device. Then look for leak source. Make sure oil level is not too high. When changing oil it often gets on the cross member and may leak when on the jiffy satnd for a while until it is all gone from this area. Make sure to always use thread sealant and a good o-ring on the drain plug.

This could be a number of things. First off you need to display DTCs if there are any. Some things will not set codes but always start diagnosis by displaying any codes if there are any. This sounds like a fueling problem. Check your air filter first and then pull and check the plugs to see if you are running rich or lean as either could be the problem and further diagnosis will be greatly assisted by knowing if it is one or the other.

Not a code, most likley a module part number

You need to say how the bike is running, where the oil leak is coming from and see if you have any engine codes set. If you cannot easily find the source of the oil leak clean it all down and dry it and run it a short while until you see oil at a particular location and then it you still cannot identify precisely where the leak is coming from clean and dry it again and then spray Tinactin foot spray all over the area closest to where the oil reappeared and run it a little bit and the oil leak will be made evident to you by wetting the foot spray area.

Valve timing is off then so you need to redo your work and time the cam properly. You could be out a tooth, either on the rear side chain or the front side gears. Igniton timing is ecm controlled so that won't be off other than than aligned with valve timing as valve timing is off, not ignition timing.

30-38 psi (207-262 kN/m squared) at 2000 rpm and normal operating temperature of 230 degrees F (110 degreesC)

You will need to get installation and setting instructions from commander 3 dealer or manufacturer