Top 20 2001 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883 Questions & Answers

Go to google images with bike year/model for diagram. Took me 30secs.

Hi Sean, Your issue sounds like a carb /intake issue to me. There is some chance that it is low high voltage spark output, but typically you would have other complaints. So, how well is it idling? check for tight intake to head seals, big problem area. Squirt some water over the joints, and if the idle changes, something is leaking. You did not mention if the sled eventually speeds up, so I am going to guess that it might do so, eventually. AREAS that need inspection is the accelerator pump. This is sometimes a misleading area in that it can appear to function, but not be correct. This system has an inlet valve and an outlet valve, normally little steel ball bearings. IF an output valve leaks, you will not be "primed" and the first twist will only fill the discharge port, and not actually discharge. BUT if you sit there twisting the throttle, usually the pump will discharge a visual squirt. (this squirt sometimes needs to be aimed correctly, center of the air flow stream.) Another are is the off idle circuit. This circuit requires correct float level to work. It gets clogged easily. You mentioned that the carb was rebuilt. It is critical to blow HIGH air pressure through the passageways AFTER soaking in carb cleaner for a while. (You can also clear this circuit, sometimes, by air cleaner off, reving the bike, give wider throttle and place your hand over the carb inlet, closing off 100%, for a brief moment. Bonzai, for sure, but works more often than not. almost always works on lawn mowers.) Since you are not certain as to whether this is an ignition or carb/intake issue, you can also try artificial enrichment. I use a propane torch, with the discharge orifice removed, and a long rubber hose slid over the tube of the torch. you can add fuel directly in the carb throat and get results. this can help narrow down what is happening. Best to you, and I hope these ideas help you zero in on what is happing on your sled. Doc

check all ground wires, start at battery, you lost ground connection gradually.

If it's a non-vacuum petcock, just plug the vacuum lines and use the petcock like a manual one.

This could be a fault anywhere in the transmission from the shaft to the actual gear. When you push or pull on the shifter, you turn a disk with "bumps" called the detent. The actual mechanism you are moving when you shift is called the "pawl". The pawl moves the forks, which slides the gears left or right on the shaft.

I know, this doesn't tell you what's wrong. This is just a little background.

One thing that needs routine adjustment is the pawl. If the pawl isn't fully turning the fork drum, it won't force the gear to mesh with the one next to it. Therefore, your machine won't shift.

Adjusting the pawl is something that a "seasoned" do-it-yourselfer could do, with access to the service manual and simple hand tools.

Harley did do a really good job of hiding them in a spot you would never think to look. So rather than tell you, here's a video for it

Did you adjust the push rods?

I've got a schematic that I'll send you if you will contact me directly at [email protected] . What ground wire are you talking about? I've never seen a ground wire get hot.

Good Luck
Steve

Yes, there is a fuse and a main circuit breaker. Look either under the seat or behind the triangular plate on the left side of the bike. You should find the circuit breakers and fuses in this area. The headlight and tail light are protected by the same fuse. If the tail light works, the head light should work.

Good luck
Steve

Contact me directly and I will send you three pages of troubleshooting instructions right out of an OEM service manual. Contact me at [email protected] and remind me of what you need. I'll be glad to send it to you.

Ok, you've either got a lose of spark problem or a fuel problem. To solve your problem, you've got to figure out which one you've got. The next time it does this, take a spare set of spark plugs and put them in the plug wires. Ground them good to the engine and press the start button while watching them. Do you have a good spark. If so, now you've narrowed your problem to a fuel issue. If not, you've got an electrical problem.

Fuel problems are the simpliest. First, loosen but don't remove your gas cap and ride the bike. If this fixes the problem, replace the fuel cap as the vent valve in the cap has went bad. Check for full fuel fuel flow through the petcock. Your bike may have one of the vacuum operated petcocks. These are notorious for giving problems. I'd suggest replacing it with a high quality manually operated petcock if it proves to be your problem. To test it, remove the fuel hose and the smaller vacuum hose on the rear of the petcock. Using a hand operated vacuum pump. apply vacuum to the nipple on the backside of the petcock. You should have a full flow of fuel through the petcock. If not, replace the thing.

If you don't have a spark when you check the plugs, start carrying a can of "component cooler" with you. The next time it does this, spray the ignition module and see if that brings the bike back to life immediately. Try spraying the pickup module in the timer cavity. You may have to drill the rivets out of the cover to get to this component. Do not replace the rivets with standard rivets,,They're special rivets, get them a the Harley shop. When you spray something with the component cooler and your bike come back to life immediately. You've found a temp problem. Replace that component.

Good Luck
Steve

check your fuel tank vent in the gas cap. Loosen the gas cap, don't take it off and ride the bike. If it doesn't quit then, replace the cap.

Good luck
steve

Sounds like your turn signal controller is bad. Contact me directly and I'll send you a trouble shooting guide. It's far too much to type in here.
[email protected]

Sounds like a burnt cylinder.

It should only take about 1/2 an hour after getting the bike on the lift.

On the left side of your bike, there is a trianglar side cover that comes off. Under this cover, there is the starter relay, main circuit breaker and other electical stuff. There are some fuses on the backside of this plate. One of the fuses is for the lights. Your brake light and headlight run off one of the fuses, and the rest of the lighting runs off the accessories fuse.

Good luck
Steve

Sounds like you have a broken shifter pawl. If you remove the outer primary cover, you can see it just behind the clutch assembly.

You add it to the primary case on the left side of the engine. The same oil lubricates the primary and the transmission.

Remove the clutch inspection cover. On the clutch, you will see a dark blue colored steel plate. This is the diaphragm clutch spring. With the bike standing straight up, the oil level should be just to the bottom of this plate. If you add too much oil, the clutch will drag causing a problem with getting the transmission into neutral whent he engine is running. Do not overfill.

could be the jets clogged if it sat all yr taake off carbs use a paper clip to clean the jets out

The drain hose comes down the back of the frame and looks like it attaches to the frame.