20 Most Recent 1986 Suzuki GSX-R 750 G Questions & Answers

try some aero start, starting spray, it may help work out what may be wrong.
Try a compression test
drain the carby bowls.though the little drain screws
Did it stop for any reason or it just wont start after it has sat for a time.?
What have you tried?

ask these guys

www.zx-10r.net

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Click here for the wiring diagram of a Suzuki GSXR750 (85-87). I am not sure how far 'stripped' electrically you would want it. If you would operate on a 'total loss' system (battery only, no charging), then only the ignitor, ignition coils and signal generator (pulse coils) are necessary.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

this can happen with bad battery connections or earth cable

The relay should be with the other relays, under the seat>
Does the light come on and stay on, if it does the relay is faulty or if they don't come on at all it could be the relay or fuse.
Hope this helps

You have a partially clogged jet in one or more carbs.
you need to have the carbs pulled off and cleaned.
i suggest taking all the jets out and soaking them in carb solution overnight.
I did that on my 1997 gsxr 750 W and it worked like a charm.

hi,i have one of these,it is 3.6 ltrs,or with the bike sitting level you can check as you fill as there is a sight glass on the lower r/h engine case,hope this helps...cheers

the front one that doesnt work , must have a bulb gone or wire off. The reason the rear doesnt blink is it needs the power flowing through both bulbs for the flasher to work. You may need a test light to check for power going to the front

dont know for sure....but think you may well need to pull the engine down to do this job..its a major job

You need a manual, I cant help because your bike is so old, but just google for it. There will be plenty for sale and if you hunt hard enough you should find a freebie.

Now your problem. You most probably have what is called sticky needle and seat. Your float settings may be a little out too. I would almost guarantee that a new set (or sets) of needle and seat will fix your problem.

It sounds like dirty terminals. Do that first. And a freebie manual wont go astray:

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Hi Chris,
You will have to recheck the float level (in the float chamber) of those two carburators, reset if necessary.
You may also have to reset the air-mixture screw for both of those carbs. Standard procedure to set htem is tighten them all the way in making sure not to over tighten to avoid damaging the sharp end of the screw, and thn to open 2 and a half to 3 turns.
You can thn reset them as the engine is running + -- either way.
Hope this helps!

Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Have you checked this out?
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa. Happy Holidays.

I can help with this.
On the earliest models they had slide type carburettors. This is to say that the slides were actuated by the throttle cable acting on a linkage that physically lifts the slides in the carburettors. This type of carburettor has its balance(syncronization) adjusters under the caps on top of the carburettors.(the cap isn't round & has 3 screws in it)
Number three carburettor is fixed & dosn't get adjusted.

You'll have to put the bike next to a bench & attatch a long piece of fuel hose from the tank to the fuel hose on the carburettors.You can join the two pipes together using a short piece of hose that snuggly fits on the outside or inside of the two hoses. You can also join them with a suitable shirt piece of metal pipe,or what is called here in Australia a P3 barb.These are available from tool suppliers that supply air compressor hoses & fittings.
(I made a remote tank from an old lawnmower petrol tank,a long piece of hose & mounted it on a tall stand.Under it I have a tray with all my different adaptors in it.)

You adjust number 2 cylinder to the same vacume reading as number 3 cylinder first.
Now adjust number 1 cylinder to the same vacume reading as number 2 cylinder.
Next adjust number 4 cylinder to the same vacume reading as number 3 cylinder.
Recheck that they are all the same & your done.
The adjusters are of the screw & locknut(8mm)type.
You can struggle with an 8 mm ring spanner & a flat bladed screwdriver,buy an adjusting tool(genuine, or non-genuine from a bike shop) or make one.

To make one you weld a bar onto the side(at the top)of an 8mm extended quarter inch drive socket.Then find a long small screwdriver that will fit down the hole.

After you make each adjustment,stop the engine & open the throttle wide open & release a couple of times.(This seats the slide).After diong this re-start the engine & re-check your adjustment.
I place a fan blowing on the engine to help control the engine temperature as the adjustment can be a bit of a fiddle.

I prefer to use mercuary type vacume guages as they dont go out of calibration.

If you are using dial type guages check that they are all reading the same by checking them all one by one on the same cylinder.
Some Suzukis' have a pipe (covered with a black rubber stopper) at the top of each carburettor(at the front) & others have an allen screw on the cylinder in front of the carburettor manifold rubber.
If yours has the allen screw you will also need adaptors that screw into the hole once the allen screw is removed.

If you bike has diaphram type carburettors on it(you'll be able to recognise this by the top caps of the carburettors being black & roundish in shape & held in place by 4 screws), the adjusting screws are between each carburettor & are the spring loaded type.
The adjusters are located in-between each pair of carburettors visable from the top.
These are easier to adjust as there is no lock nut to struggle with & all you need to turn the adjusting screws is a long (flat or phillips)screwdriver.
Again, balance the center two first,then the left pair then the right pair.

This procedure is applicable to all in line 4 cylinder motorcycles (even most fuel injected ones.

Regards Andrew Porrelli

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Assuming everything is stock, have you tried 1 & 1/4 turn out from full in?

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

did you gap the plugs

Hi there!
Too much gas mixture or there maybe plug problems. If it doesnt start, charge the battery and start the bike with new spark plugs. Replace the plugs, this usually works.
Let me know if this is any good. Other options:

1. THe spark plug cable
2. The ballast
3. The jets are clogged
4. Poor fuel quality.

U won't find a new OEM one. Look on ebay for used. Airtech (they don't ship outta US tho) and beaseley r 2 of a number of aftermarket manufacturers who make replacements. Look for a product called plastex if your going the try to repair your current one.

Not an easy job! I have the same bike...

- Remove the seats, the lower and both side fairing middel sections
- rRemove the fuel tank ( don't forget to close the fuel **** first ) and take care of the fuel level sensor lead
- Remove the battery leads
- Remove the 4 air filter casing bolts
- Remove the crankcase breater hose between air filter case and cylinder head cover
- Loosen the clamping bands on each end of the 4 carbs ( thus 8 bands )
- Pull the airbox to the rear and disengage the rubber joints from the 4 carbs
- Pull the carbs to the rear to disengage them from the rubber inlet-pipes.
- Move the carns to the right to have acces to loosen and disconnect the throttle cables.
- If there is an evaporative emission tube, disconnect it from the carbs, AFTER marking their place!
- Remove the carbs to the right side. That's quite difficult, there is not much place, be carefull.

to replace, just invert this way of work.
When engaging the carbs in the inlet-pipes, you have to feel them knok down at the end of the pipe fitting.
Be sure to tight the clamps correctly to avoid at 100% air leaks.
An air leak between carbs and engine will lean your mixture and will cause serious engine damage!

1st-take off fairings & tank,seat, take carbs off. drain fuel, & turn over on bench. take bowls off.disassemble jets & floats in each carb, do not mix components from each carb.soak in carb cleaner until clean, & no obstructions in jets. soak bowls also.squirt through carb. air & fuel circuits w/ spray carb. cleaner.when everything is cleaned, reassemble carbs. check carb. float needles for leaks. if all ok ,install carbs on bike.now using remote fuel supply bottle, hook up to carb set.start bike & warm it up,now synchronize carb. set w/ vacuum guage set.reassemble tank,seat, and fairings. note:this really is not a job for the novice w/o competent supervision, a service manual is recommended before beginning.