20 Most Recent 1983 Suzuki GSX 1100 E - Page 2 Questions & Answers

check the coils to see if there is any spark from there,if not start going backwards to the spark rectifires,the points or cdi (which ever you have)
if they are all working check the wires , lots of places to look just start at the pulgs and work your way back, don't forget to check all the grounds

Vin number should be on the gooseneck at the triple trees just in front of the fuel tank on the left side

the oil in the crankcase creaps up on the inside of the engine when set on the side stand.(usually the left side smokes) Try parking on center stand.lots of older bikes do this.

if there are air valves, those early bike sometimes needed air, about 5psi, do not use a compresor, use a small hand pump, or proper low pressure inflator. A standard tyre inflater will blow the seals.
The guard should not hit no matter what the pressure, check the exhaust is the correct one for the bike,check for a bent frame or forks

Going to the manufactures specs or anybody's specs for that matter won't help you, you have interrupted the air flow, Get an adj jet from Dyna flow, I did the same thing, went back to the oem specs and still wouldn't run. Got a Dyna flow kit and off it went. Those things are expensive but worth it. Plus they are adj. And you get a free dyno check if you ever find somebody with a dyno tester. My Mikunis were a little newer, but I'm sure they got something. I found mine on Ebay. Hope this helps.

Engine overheating on your Suzuki GSX1100E can be caused by these things: Engine oil level too low. Check the crankcase oil level.
Incorrect engine oil viscosity. Be sure to use the correct oil for the temperatures in your area.
Fuel-air mixture too lean. Caused by clogged carburetor jets from long term storage. Modifications to the air filter or air cleaner box will require carb re-jetting. Air leaks between the carbs and engine - check for lose clamps and cracked intake manifolds.
Incorrect ignition timing. Unlikely, but easy to check.
Damaged or extremely dirty oil cooler. Make sure there's nothing blocking air flow through the cooler.
Riding for extended periods at slow speeds - or idling the engine too long will cause insufficient air flow and overheating.
Finally, is it really overheating? Normal engine operating temperatures are pleanty hot enough to burn the skin if you touch most any part of the engine. Check the actual oil temperature. Anything above around 240F is cause for checking all of the items listed above.

Actually no this happened because the bolt holding the magneto on was not properly tighten to the correct torque a loose rotor will shear the key remove the rotor and inspect the key way remove what left and install a new set key and properly torque the bolt.

That spells a broken connection rod

That ain't good

Sorry

Google babbitts sports center.com then click on buy oem parts and then select your specific bike. A parts diagram will come up, change the page from 'air cleaner' to 'carburetor' on the drop down menu and you can see your carb assembly. Hope this helps...

rock solid bike. change all the fluids and filters.check and clean the petcock filter that is inside the tank. clean the carbs.. this bike will have cv carbs, check diaphragms for pinholes.

First - I do not know this bike specifically, but with 4-strokes the screw usually adjusts the fuel, not the air in the pilot circuit. Keep in mind this screw only adjusts the mixture from idle up to just under half throttle. It won't effect higher engine speed performance.

Basically, you can adjust them in 1/2 turn increments until you get the desired performance. Or, fire it up, and adjust the screws with it idling until you can get the highest, smooth idle - this is likely where it will be best.

Now - if the screws are 'behind' the carb slide (air filter side) they are an air screw. If they are on the engine side of the slide, they are fuel screws - the two work opposite of eachother. They're likely on the engine side of the slide, so screwing them in will lean out the pilot circuit (less fuel). So - if after you adjust the screws as described above, check to see how far out from seat they are. If you are not around 1.5-2.5 turns out, you might consider changing the pilot jets inside the carb.

Try here:

www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery.../suzuki/

I have a hardback workshop manual for this model, I can scan the electrical diagram & email it to you if you like? email me on [email protected]

To start with it sounds as though your floats heights are out. Also you may need new neeedle & seats because they could be leaking fuel. One of the best things you can do is get a workshop manual for this bike. It will give you setting for you carbies, eg. float heights, mixture screw settings, & also problem solving solutions.I hope this a help to you.
Regrades Lighten.

is a product called "seafoam" available to you? if so...use it instead.however, beware of soaking complete barbs in ANY solution. always better to dissasemble & clean.

The gummy stuff is varnish left behind by evaporating gas from the tank. Get some Berrymans Chemtool carb cleaner. Submerse the carb parts in it and add a small air hose, like one from a fish tank, into the bottom of the carb container. The air wil provide vibration and circulation of the cleaner in the container. Let the carb soak for a couple of days. Add cleaner as needed.

one and four fire together then two and three

move you off cars. sure, battery week starter bad, starter controls bad all it takes is a voltmeter to find this, got one? they cost $20 today, near free, or cost of 1 potted plant.