Hi, Stuntmanlemo and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.denniskirk.com/blog/2014/03/26/steps-take-motorcycle-wont-start/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB5F_Qu4ixE http://store.qlinkmotor.com/c/manuals_service-manual http://store.qlinkmotor.com/c/accessories-parts https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1192373/Qlink-Lg250.html#product-legacy%20250
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, look for, corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.google.com/search?q=Turn+signals+not+working+2008+Qlink+Legacy+250&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjit-n63JXmAhWRm1kKHShMCKIQsAR6BAgJEAE&biw=1440&bih=757 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7uETbJGx7Y http://store.qlinkmotor.com/c/manuals_service-manual http://store.qlinkmotor.com/c/accessories-parts https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1192373/Qlink-Lg250.html#product-legacy%20250
Most modern motorcycles don't have separate gearbox oil.
The gearbox is lubricated by the engine oil hence the reason for regular oil and filter changes to be made following the manufacturers recommendations.
Hi, Lisa before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start 3 Things to Look for When Your Motorcycle Won Start The Allstate Blog QLINK MOTOR Service Manual Legacy 250 $70 QLINK MOTOR ACCESSORIES PARTS LEGACY 250 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1192373/Qlink-Lg250.html#product-legacy%20250
when were the spark plugs checked or changed last ? when you go for a run does it run ok , is it only stalling on tickover ? if not running ok then try plugs then if no change clean the carbs and fuel system !
Hi I am Vortash .. this may seem like a silly question but I have to ask .. are you sure you connected the terminals the right way round ?. You would be amazed to how many people who text back and say oops no .. lol.. if you did then just check the earth strap if it was loose when you put the new battery on you may have disturbed it and it is not contacting properly .. clean and tighten ..regards Vortash ..
Typically most gear drive motorcycles use the same type of system. There will be a small bolt either 8mm or 10mm or a Phillips head . That will be at the bottom of the gear case just below the rear axle. Remove the bolt and let it drain. There should be a smaller screw or bolt of some sort above the axle. That will be the " weep " hole. Once you finish emptying the gear box. You re install the drain plug and fill the gear box through the weep hole. You fill it til it starts to come out past the threads. That is the correct fluid amount. Re install the weep hole plug and you're good to go.