20 Most Recent 1996 Moto Guzzi Sport 1100 i Questions & Answers

Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.

dunno if that's backwards. Anyway: adjusted to just minimum sane play it barely engages with the lever fully in. If I would have to adjust the lever to any shorter position (for smaller hands) it would probably not engage fully. I understand there is an adjustment at the clutch arm down behind the gearbox. If I adjust there what will happen? I'm guessing I can wind that one in a bit then loosen the wire a bit. Will this solve the problem or will I be back at where I am now?,The arm only has limited travel, and there is a screw adjustment between the arm and the end of the clutch push-rod. Not sure what it is on the 1100s; it could be a hex headed bolt or an allen grub, but it's a bugger to get at because the swinging arm is so close. There's going to be some sort of locknut which will have to be slackened first. Make small adjustments, screwing in towards the 'box, and trying the clutch lever each time. ,,,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwnijg8bTxE

what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

Probably have to remove the seat first. Most fuel tanks are retained by u shaped flanges that grip a round rubber puck on both sides of the frame near the steering head. After you drain the fuel, lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it to the rear, it should then be free to lift off the frame.

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?

oil leaks during use indicate a loose bearing adjustment allowing the oil to move past the seal lip when rotating I would be checking wheel bearing condition and adjustment, oil level in that section and wear groove for where the oil seal lip runs reasoning is , when the wheel is stationary the oil is not being splashed around and will settle in the lowest places when moving , if the seal housing is allowed to move separate to the axle position ( wobble , up down sideways etc) then small gaps appear between the seal lip and what it runs on and so oil is allowed to escape if it is a drive shaft to the rear wheel check the output shaft to the wheel for movement ( bad bearings , adjustment/ preload ) or anything that will not keep the shaft in the center of the seal

Could it be immobilized? Try disconnecting the battery.

the blank one and you can check this out after the bike is running or at least when you get the coil to fire by placing the lead part of a pencil in the gap between the spark plug or a good ground and the gap between the pencil and the spark plug wire so you can see the spark jump to the plug or ground from the plug wire and if the spark flash is on the wire side of the pencil the coil the coil is wired with wrong polarity if the system is a positive ground system. The coil will work no matter what the polarity ie no matter which of the terminals you connect to power and which you connect to ground, the only difference will be a somewhat weaker spark if electron flow is reversed from what it should be i.e. if it is from negative or ground to positive on a negative ground system or as on some older British ignition systems from positive to negative on a positive ground system. The flash will appear on the side of the pencil lead away from the current flow i.e. the flash will occur as the current leaves the pencil lead. Hope this helps.

Try at guzzitech.com or wildguzzi.com. Also the folks at harper moto guzzi have an online site. Try them too.

most guzzi's do not HAVE kick start

put volt meter on generator mounted on top of motor under gas tank, when engine rev is over1200 rpm on tach, should read above 12 volts,up to 13+. check tension on genny belt, if loose, will not spin genny well enough to make charge

If both cylinders are involved then it has to be a fuel delivery problem or a timing problem. If you have checked the timing (valve and ignition) then it's fuel and it applies to both cylinders (I'm assuming here). The tank valve may be gummed up. Flow may be restricted. If it isn't both cylinders then it will likely be a carb problem on the bad side. Go through that carb again.

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when you say you have play is it coming from the wheel bearings or the swing arm .if there is play like that and the axle is tight it sounds like wheel bearings ,but to be sure take the bike to a guzzi specialist to be positive.hope this helps