20 Most Recent 2005 Kymco Xciting 250 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/892435/Kymco-Maxer.html?page=39#manual

It is here 80/65 - 8"

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Moved Category from Cars & Trucks to Kymco. This is a known issue and the Kymco Forum says it may be from using an incorrect key. There is a workaround. https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+Kymco+50i+key+security+shutter+closes ..

WHAT DOES IT TELL YOU ON THE TIRE SIDE WALL

On my kymco foru midi the tyer presure is 25 to 28

Chinese rubbish

Chinese pish, get rid of it

CDI unit is located inside the front panel of the scooter.Behind front headlight.

When you say the plug is hot, you presumably don't mean the spark plug so which plug is getting hot? Whichever plug it is it shouldn't be getting hot - heat is an indication of excess current flow or a poor contact. I suggest you add more information in the comments.

Check the motor for a dirty commutator. This will make the motor draw too much current.

Usually related to needing service or battery state. Remove the battery terminals and clean the battery posts and the connector on the wire. Fully charge the battery. Smear both with some Vaseline and reconnect. The code should be gone.

I wonder what your fault is .......................

I looked all through the manual and could not find a fuse box. It looks like they may all be inline single fuses.

what is kymco...we r answering world vise questions... i don't know this name tel me is this a car or a bike or any ales...

sounds like a spark plug problem or a cracked coil

Arriving at a fair price for any secondhand vehicle is very difficult and many variables should be considered though in the final analysis anything is only worth what the market will pay - if the seller asks too much the buyer will walk away. There are many publications providing guide prices for all manner of vehicles - but these are only a guide and some models tend to command higher prices because of a good reputation while other models with a reputation for trouble or high running costs can fall far below. No vehicle should be bought without a thorough inspection and price adjustments made for faults found and any pending work, taking due consideration of fair wear and tear. A service history is important but will affect the price only if it can be fully verified by the presence of official invoices and a vehicle should only reach the guide price if the literature pack, the full complement of keys, tools, accessories, etc. is present. The replacement cost of some of the modern keys can be eye-watering so it is important to think ahead. The presence of local dealer expertise and a spares service is worth a little extra and the absence of a local dealer drives the price down a little. I hope this helps...

Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting. I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.

Here is a forum talking about it. http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=4005.0

You've got a Ignition System Issue which narrows things down quite a bit. It's either the ignition switch that your key goes into, or an on/off(run/stop) switch, or it's a relay for the ignition systems(or starter relay), if it's none of those then it's the starter solenoid that you've been jumping with the screwdriver, it sounds like the starter is working as it should since it turns over- the reason it turns over but won't actually run is because the ignition system won't work unless the key is inserted and in the run position, or if there's any other on/off switch that controls your engine it could be there. I'm not familiar with this exact bike but this is a common issue with all motorized machines! You can bypass all of this but that requires running some wires and a couple of switches plus a relay or two- that's an option but don't do that as your issue is nothing major and would be easier to fix than to go through the trouble of re-wiring it all. Just start troubleshooting and eliminate one part at a time, check relays, fuses, and electrical connections first, then the individual components I listed above and check to make sure they have power coming in and out when/where they're supposed to. If your bike turns over but won't run and the key is on, and you have a functional Ignition system then you need to verify you have ignition by checking your coil's output. EASIEST way to do so is pull a spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire as you normally would, then hold the spark plug against the engine to ground it and turn it over- you'll see if you have any spark jumping aroundbetween the spark plug's electrode and the base of the plug itself. Either way, you'll get this figured out now that you know where to start and what to check!

Check that your fuel pump is working.