20 Most Recent 2001 KTM SX 400 Racing Questions & Answers

don't bother as the kit and effort is worth more than a new pump

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
Go to this link and drill down to below indicated: http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx 2001 > 400 SX RACING > ENGINE > TRANSMISSION II
You can loosen the chain tension from the adjusters at the end of the swing arm. Then remove the mud guard (If exists) covering the front sprocket. Remove the M10 X 18mm bolt holding the sprocket. Slide the sprocket and chain off the spline and change out. If unable to slide off the spline you can always open the master link on the chain and do same step.

Use reverse process to re-install new sprocket. Readjust chain tension and make sure to re-tighten axel nuts. Good idea to use Locktite on the 10 x 18 bolt and spring washer holding the front sprocket. Replace mud guard or leave off as to your preference.
Kind regards,
TF

A couple things you can check. One is make sure the carb float level is high enough.It should be set exactly at the factory spec.Another thing is make sure the carb main jet is not restricted, a piece of sand or something. Make sure the air filter is cleaned and in good shape.And a fresh spark plug is a good idea.You can also call the KTM dealer and see if they can help. They might have a recall type problem they could tell you about. I hope this helps you and your bike.

I finally managed to get a throttle cable and an idle cable. How do you get the cables out of the throttle housing? I have removed the ends from the grip. Now I am faced with getting the throttle cable and idle cables through the cast metal hole in the bottom of the the throttle housing and then the new ones back up through. There is a shiny barrel clip-looking ferrul attached to the metal ball on the end of the cable that prevents it from fitting through that hole. As my shiny new $100 worth of throttle/idle cables did not come with ferruls to replace the existing ones I am assuming that there is some way to take those ferrules off the old cables and put the on the new ones. So I need to know how to take off/re-use those clips and/or am I SOL on being able to get this thing going without yet another delivery from Ridley? The cable end is removable. You don't need to buy new ones. Try a small pick to remove the cable from the housing.,,

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry. I have been going
over some of the older help requests that have been archieved and
trying to provide solutions for those that didn't get answered. Hope
this information helps.

Try these:

KTM Torque settings

1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber bottom bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
23. Other collar nuts on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..

Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.

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Hi, try to see this link and looking for the manual that you need. https://www.pdfmotomanual.com/manuales/ktm/eng I hope to give you an help. Luca

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Hi, most likely your cdi unit or ignition coil needs replacing.

took me a min or two of WTF-ing to see pic and realize you meant a 2-stroke motorcycle..

try replace spark plugs

It's a bad seal of the head gasket. You need a new head gasket and to scrape every particle of debris from the cylinder head and cylinder surfaces that mate with the head gasket. Use the factory specified gasket sealing compound and do a clean job - no blobs or pools of the stuff. The head gasket should lay flat on the surface of the top of the cylinder, and you have to make this surface free of grit, leftover sealant and any other foreign matter before you put the head in place and torque it down. Start with the head bolts just finger tight and then go by the manufacturer's specs for the pattern and amount of torque to be applied. Usually it is recommended that you get to the specified torque amount in stages, going around several times and repeating the torque pattern until you get that maximum rated amount. This will prevent the seal from shifting or warping and should make the gasket seal perfectly. This is the old school method of doing this job. and I have never seen this fail to produce good results. Take your time, be clean, and you will have the results you want.

Check the clutch, adjust, clean, or replace

over full sump fuel getting into sump badly worn rings allowing excessive blow by

Worn out shift dogs.