20 Most Recent 2001 KTM Exc-Racing E 400 Questions & Answers

Your lower rpms are controled by the mixture screw, pilot jet, accelerator pump and the slide needle. So your problem is probably in one of these-though racing 4 strokes are known to have a little stumble at the bottom, but not what you're describing. I'll have to assume the shop has the pilot jet clean and the mixture screw adjusted properly.(roughly 1.5 turns out)

First, check your accelerator pump. Remove the carb enough to be able to look inside the throat, but leave the cables hooked up. Work the throttle a few times and make sure that there is a small squirt of fuel in the throat of the carb each time you twist the throttle. If not, your accelerator pump is clogged or damaged.

If everything is fine there, the next likely problem is the needle adjustment. It's mounted in the slide. Once you remove the needle, you'll see a small clip around it. Try moving this clip up one notch. This will lower the needle and slightly delay the fuel feed from the main. If this fuel comes in too soon, it will cause a way rich condition and cause a bog off idle.

Outside of carb issues, valve adjustment(too tight) can make for a rough idle and hard starting.

2001 EXC have the same cooling system regardless of a 4 stroke or a 2 stroke, this technology have stayed until 2006

Here is the manual for 2006:
https://www.ktmdealer.net/uploads/models_tech_datasheets/8303F3_OM_EN.pdf

then your water pump assy should look like this

http://www.ktmcyclehutt.com/ktm-parts/productimages/77335955044_lg.jpg

Most likely source of a problem will be a gummed up carb. Clean it thoroughly and drain fuel tank and replace with fresh fuel. Probably would be a good idea to check the valve lash, too.

Check the voltages coming from the coil . Make sure they are correct. Timing may be off. It will cause the plugs to superheat and burn up also improper detination. Might be hard to start. Run hot and feel torquey with out alot of top end power . Have hessitation when gas is first applied . Also check the exuast temp it could be you added a aftermarket pipe ,dented or clogged it causing it to have more compression. to become trapped + increasing the temp. Make sure you use the recomended gap over gaping will cause them to heat up and burn up fast.Check your compression on the cylinder you could have a oil leak in the cylinder causing the oil residue to burn and foul up the plugs. This usaully comes with smoke out of the pipe. The cam could be worn causing the valves to not open all the way. There are alot of possiblitys start with the easiest suggestion before you work into your motor taking apart uneeded precise small motor parts. Plugs,wires,timing,compression check,temp check then if needs be tear it down.

check your headgasket.

I build myspace pages. For a small fee I will build you a personal page that can include your own photos (like background) and desired objects of your likeing. [email protected]

Try this site I came across

http://sites.google.com/site/motorcyclemanualstore/

depends on what material is stained.. Aluminium stains can be very tricky to get clean if not impossible...some cleaners will also cause a orange/reddish stain wich will not come out unless you use some harsh chemicals to get them out. problem is it's hard to get to those chemicals. IF you happen to have a truck wash nearby where they wash the big trucks (18 wheelers)take your parts there and tell them to use some brightener on it it's a chemical that really cleans aluminium.it may cost you a little bit of money but that stuff really works and i haven't been able to find that stuff for private sale anywhere. the number 2 reasons for stains on the bike are : 1) waiting to long to wash the bike some types of sand/mud especially the red dirt we have down south here will stain a bike if you leave it on the bike not only that it dries as hard as concrete and is very difficult to remove , so was your bike ASAP. 2) washing chemicals. Some chemicals / soaps when they are left too long on aluminium will leave stains as it reacts with the aluminium , these stains are almost impossible to get out. ,,,

Use 5wt. fork oil or ATF Dextron II/III. I've use both and have the 5wt. fork oil in now. Suppose to have a lighter pull but can't really tell any difference. Use a large syringe to pump the oil in from the bleeder at the bottom up to the master cylinder.

you might want to try some Arrow Fly Taper bars. They work with the stock mounts and should add a couple of inches to the height of the bars. They are really nice to ride with and are alot less expensive that Protapers.

you need a micrometere or vernier caliper to measure how thick they are that how you tell how worn the clutch is. the manual will list the specificational limit (how thin you should allow them to get and how do the basket and innser hub looks like). if they have small teeth on them they are worn.,

Thanks for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
Check externally for the obvious things first like a bent shift lever or lever re-installed in a position interfering with frame or something preventing engagement into 1st gear. I'm never that lucky.
More than likely you have either bent a shifting fork or lost a tooth on a gear or something on the shift mechanism internally is bent, broken, or has lost a clip. Drain your oil and check the plug magnet to see if any metal shavings, fragments, or parts appear.
You will most likely have to pull the engine and split the case and replace parts. You can take it to a shop or if your handy do it your self. Take a look at the link to the parts fiche and determine your preference.
http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
2001/400/Engine/Transmission II (Don't know if your bike is a SX or EXC Racing)
2001 > 400 SX RACING > ENGINE > SHIFTING MECHANISM
You can also order a repair manual from this site or ask your dealer

http://www.repairmanual.com/KTM.html

If we can provide other information or service please advise.

Kind regards,

TF

very hard to change to electric start, unles there is already a place to bolt the starter motor it may need another engine case and internal starter gears

Yes and no is the answer. If its the stock KTM pipe it should not backfire, if it has an aftermarket pipe (race pipe) there is a good chance it will. You should make sure all the exhaust joints are sealed properly as this will contribute to it. If its a race pipe, make sure the bike has had the carb rejetted to suit. Genrally, with a race pipe you will get some popping when decellerating even if it has been set up correctly.

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..