20 Most Recent 2001 KTM EXC 300 Questions & Answers

If it's liquid cooled then that grey smoke is more than likely steam ( the head gasket is on it's way out). If it was burning oil you would able to smell it.,,

if you need you bike jetted for 7000, take it to a shop and have it jetted. If you dont understand your carburetor and make the wrong adjustment you can lean out and blow up the engine. when you jet a bike for 7000, you need to change everything, main jet, idle jet, idle mixture, idle, and needle position.

does not use gear oil. the motor oil lubricates the transmission as well. Just make sure to keep the engine oil full.

Rear LHS of engine. Faces backwards, not downwards

If I remember correctly it is on the rear left hand side corner of the sump, and faces backwards, not downwards.

I, if your leak is visible, check hooses connectios, if not visible THEN CHECK YOUR OIL AND YOUR COOLING RESERVOIR FOR CONTAMINATION. Is possible tha you have a blown cilinder head gasket

Float inside the bottom of carb is attached to a needle that shuts off fuel when the proper fuel height is reached inside the bowl. This tiny needle usually has a rubber tip that is pushed upwards by the pressure of the float. Trash on the seat of the valve, or improper float height are common culprits with fuel pouring out of overflows. you can clear trash of the valve seat by blowing into the fuel port on the side of the carb. You can adjust float height by bending the metal tab that pushes on the needle valve.

2001 ktm 300 takes 800ml of oil drain plug is below gear shifter. oil level plug is below water pump

timing could be slightly take the magneto casing off then remove the cylinder head when the piston is at the top of cylinder head a metal lump on the magneto should line up with the first or second marking on the casing behind the magneto, carb might need cleaning,if its been rebuilt because of piston ring blowing then maybe they didnt skim your head properly your best off takin the bike apart which really aint that differcult go up to the main engine lump and you wont have that many problems

yes they are a good bike. KTM has a good reputation. Just depends on the condition of it, and how well it has been looked after.

here you go buddy

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=39708

You have a bent shift fork. The repair means taking the engine out of the frame then removing the top end, removing the flywheel and electrics, removing the clutch , shift mechanism and kick starter and a few other parts. THEN you are ready to split the gearbox to remove the crankshaft and then the bent shift fork. Next you get to put it all back together. This is a pretty big job for the home mechanic.

You will need an impact driver, flywheel puller, case splitter and torque wrench plus the normal screwdriver, pliers, etc.. Alternate to the special tools is taking it to the dealer and say "Fix it".
I normally tell people to take it to the shop just so they don't get into such an involved project.

Please rate this solution. Thanks

any engine engineering shop that does re-bores will have the piston and rings to suit pistons and rings are generic and not made by the engine manufacturer as for taking it back to stock it is a pointless exercise as the .040" oversize may give you a 1% increase in power if you are lucky

my thoughts are its sucking in trans oil from a bad main seal on the primary side.Other possibilties are you over oiled your airfilter or you are putting in to much oil in your mix .

bad center case seal, or main crank seal right side.

Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings

1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

Can you please state year model and size of you bike...all it says is KTM. They have different shocks.

I "think" the clarifcation question was in order for the "helper" to find the correct seals for you. I would like yo to go to this page.http://www.4strokes.com/tech/ktm/fork.aspI have been searching for the correct service manual but cannot find one for free. Its a basic job regardless of the type of bike or the year. Technology has changed for the newer models of all bikes but for most the same basic principals apply.Iknow that this is not an "answer" in part or full but please follow the link.

The carb should be left alone - the speed of the closing of the valve has no influence on the air-fuel mixture. Just back the adjuster out one turn , with a fine adjustment later- that should be enough.