20 Most Recent 2002 Hyosung GV 125 Aquila - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Do yourself a favour, purchase a workshop manual for it.

check air filter, spark plug and fuel delivery in that order. then check for plugged exhaust, valve adjustments and then timing. in the mean time answer these questions. is the gas fresh and from a known good source ??? did you do anything to it recently ??? is the engine revving high while you are moving ???

Running low on fuel concentrates any water or sediment in the tank to the point where it just has to go down the fuel line and it clogs filters and carburettors. A tiny drop of water in a carb can play havoc... I suggest you clean the fuel system and carb thoroughly...

Buy a shopmanual or ask a cycle salvage

Check the fuel pump.

I would clean the jets again and blow out with compressed air its happened to me cleaned it and more dirt went straight back in from dirty tank give it a try nothing to lose

yes only use the manufacturers recommended oil viscosity .

what is question

Tune up.

Should be pretty easy and you might have to take the rear tire off. Usually have to take off the caliper to get the brake pads out and new ones in.

Check your fuses

Repair your vehicle right away. Just click on the link I attached

It sounds like something electrical, bikes are prone to this with all the semi-exposed electrical contacts. I would start with the battery trace where the wires go to, and spray the contacts and connections good with some wd-40, then follow as many wires as you can and contacts and fuses, and even spark plug wires, trust me something electrical got wet , and it is just a matter of finding it. This happened one time to my old Honda, and we push started it with my friends motorcycle, tied a rope from back of his bike to front of mine, I put it in 2nd gear, put in my clutch, when he took off slowly and we got up to about 5 miles an hour I released my clutch and after about of 50 ft. of spitting and spopping she started...

Sounds like you are having a fuel tarvation issue, If you ride for about 3-4 minutes and it quits.. then you sit for a few minutes and it restarts,, this the most likely problem. If you can drive for 15- 20 minutes and it quits, sits for 10 minutes then restarts, it may be the coil.. it gets hot, then breaks down,,,then cools off and restarts..its the most likely culprit.. A good dealer should be able to "stress test" your coil.

Hey Maryna, This is a job for a professional,, the timing is critical so engine damage doesn't happen!!.-- BUT, if you have someone who has the tools.. you can do it yourself. The points control the time the spark plug fires. The point gap makes sure the spark is generated is sufficient enough to provide the energy to the coil to provide the hot spark to the spark plug. The timing should be around 1.8 - 2.0 mm BEFORE top dead center..(the piston location). When the piston is at 1.8 - 2.0mm BTDC the points should be just breaking contact.. this is the ACTUAL TIMING setting!! You need a dial indicator with attachments to fit into the spark plug hole AND a meter to tell you when the point first open.. The points gap should be .014". Some engines use the point gap as a timing setting...ie.. if the point gap is right (.014") the timing should be close. The timing has to be very close...too advanced (2.2mm BTDC or more) and you will burn a hole in the piston!!!! IF you set the point gap and the timing is off, you need to replace the points. There should be some timing marks somewhere on the flywheel/engine case. If you need more help,, just reply to this post. Good Luck!!

try new rings

Sounds to me this is what it is designed to do to stop you ridding with the stand down.

When you say no lights does this include warning lights as well?