155-165 psi
low 140-145 for an engine with miles on it
100-125 psi would indicate wear and needing attention
no more that 10% between cylinder readings - anything more indicates valves or gasket problems
talk with a service center for specifications and testing procedures
It operates exactly like an automotive system. DOT 3/4 brake fluid is put into the reservoir on the handle bar left side master cylinder assembly and bled out at the slave cylinder on the round clutch cover on the backside of the motor in front of the rear wheel. Both the master cylinder rebuild kit and the rear slave cylinder kit are available from a Honda if needed. Some times a simple bleeding will fix the problem. If you can not build pressure in the master cylinder , try loosening the banjo bolt and pump the clutch lever until you get fluid pressure causes leaking past the copper washers. Then tighten the banjo bolt on the master cylinder and bleed the slave cylinder. On some Goldwing's the clutch cover can be removed and the clutch plates can be replaced with the engine still in the frame. Unfortunately. the spring towers can easily be broken if you are not extremely careful.
Hi Larry:
As in any circumstance where it "hit's the fan" something us usually wrong.
Fortunately, on your Honda, all the bits are nicely visible so you should be able to see what is where it should be, and what isn't.
Cheerfuls!
Assuming the fuse is fine, the first thing to check is the fan is actually operational. Run a live feed and earth/ground direct to the fan and if it doesn't start then the fan is faulty and needs replacing. If it does start then either the automatic actuation is at fault or the wiring has broken down somewhere. To find out which it is, locate the thermostat switch that once hot automatically activates the fan. When located you should see 2 wires attached to it. Short across these connections and if the fan kicks in then the switch is faulty. If it doesn't then there is a wiring fault (broken wire, bad earth etc.) and then the fun really starts trying to find it. You could always wire in a manual switch to activate the fan yourself in the short term until you can locate the problem.
Changing or removing your rear tire on a Goldwing is pretty trait forward. There are several videos on youtube that gives very detailed instructions of how to remove it, however none of them address a couple of issues that I just had with my Aspencade GL1200A.
First, and foremost, not a single posting is available online to show you how to do an "Emergency Roadside Repair" All of them were about doing the removal (Shop style) So I'm going to provide some info here that should help out anyone who needs the instructions.
If you have additional hardware, like chrome light bars or mud flaps, you will need to address removing these before any of the informational videos will be helpful. Unfortunately, as there are several variations of aftermarket parts, you will have to be the one to decide how to remove them. Personally on mine, I have to remove 2 light bars, a trim light for the license plate, and a custom mudflap with lights, before I could gain access to the starting line of the tutorials on youtube.
Now for the BIG INFORMATION! I'll have it all CAPS for easy reference.
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE FINAL DRIVE TO REMOVE THE TIRE!
SIMPLY FOLLOW ALL OF THE REMOVAL STEPS IN THE VIDEOS (EXCEPT) REMOVING THE FINAL DRIVE BOLTS/NUTS. ALSO, DO NOT REMOVE OR DISCONNECT THE AIR SHOCKS. DO RELEASE THE AIR AS IN THE VIDEOS, BUT DO NOT DISCONNECT THEM. REMOVE THE BRAKE ROTOR AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOME WAY TO HOLD UP THE BRAKE OUT OF THE WAY. I SUGGEST A ZIP TIE. AFTER THE ROTOR IS REMOVED, AND THE AXLE IS REMOVED, THE SLACK NOW AVAILABLE ON THE SIDE THE BRAKE IS ON WILL GIVE YOU THE CLEARANCE TO POP THE FINAL DRIVE OFF OF THE WHEEL HUB! IT WILL SLIDE RIGHT OUT OF THE SPACE PROVIDED FOR REMOVAL! MUCH EASIER, AND FEWER STEPS THEN THE ACTUAL INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEOS.
Good luck everyone! I hope this helps.
The radio system on the Goldwing is equipped with a "Mute" button. More often than not, the issues are from this button not releasing completely on the inside of the switch. I suggest playing with the mute switch. Work it "on" and "off" over and over.
I've been having an issue with this myself. The turn signal switch on the left handlebar is making intermittent contact. I think it has something to do with the auto signal shut off. You might need to pull it open and clean the contacts.
When I got my Goldwing, I noticed someone replaced the top on both reservoirs on the handlebars. I did the full service on the bike, including changing all hydrolic fluids in the reservoirs. I noticed that the inner diaphragms were missing, causing them to slowly bleed fluid out of the small air hole at the top of the reservoir. I was able to fix this by flipping the inner rubber seal around 180 degrees.(like it was installed reversed)
Use the key that's opens the gas tank cover put that key in the key spot by your clock next to the radio and turn this is the lock for the radio pull the radio out you may need to tug if the radio as not been pulled in a long time
You can pick up a complete owners/service manual as well as the parts manual on cd. I got mine for my GL1100, then when I upgraded to my GL1200, I picked up another set from the same person.
Contact Wanda G at [email protected]. I believe she still sells the cd's for around $7.00 including the shipping anywhere in the US.
When I got mine, she included both the owners/service manual and the parts manual. Pretty big to download, at around 200mb.
Manuals are good enough, I just rebuilt my engine, and all 4 carbs and I'm no mechanic.
