Repair Manuals Online
The Internet, though, has a large number of web sites where you
can buy service manuals and schematics from bookstores,
publishers, and other collectors. Here are some links of what
sites are out there:
no, but it is the easiest way. i dropped the engine out of mine in about 45 min. with a floor jack and some hand tools. The only special item i had was the most excellent honda workshop manual. i took mine out going after the stator, and its right next to the clutch. i looked at the clutch and decided this was the best way for this as well. in-chassis clutch work would involve removal of the fuel cell, swing arm and all components attached to them (pain).
Where do I start, in principle it should be either electrical or fuel related, but there are so many variants in those 2 areas that it is almost impossible to answer your question without more information.
When was the bike last started? This is a good start!
u mite want to do acomplete electrical inpection also the regulator may be part of the alternator-dont hav manual here and u can purchase one at bookstore-they r detailed n show u how to everything without speakin ***
Typically the shift shaft return spring part #19 or part #16 has some how broken or become detached. This will typically keep your Honda from up shifting out of first gear.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1977-honda-gl1000/o/m9475#sch405804
With any luck you can gain access to these parts through one of the smaller motor inspection covers located on the left side of the motor.
When you have oil in a radiator (any 4 stroke including cars) or water/antifreeze in the oil (e.g., on dipstick) then you need to check for either a blown head gasket or, worse, a cracked cylinder/block. Sorry...
You can disassemble the pump and rebuild it. but it is a lot easier to buy the assembly from a dealer. If you get a gasket set from K & L you will get all the o-rings gaskets and seals to replace the water pump assembly. Again you will be happier if you just replace it rather than try to rebuild it.
the issue isn't whether points are conventional or electronic,since they only trigger timing of spark event.the V65 coil doesn't produce the voltage required.
The taillight should be on at all times. The brakelight should come on when the front or rear brakes are applied. Start by disconnecting the front brake light switch then the rear to see which switch is broken. Also check the bulbs. I have seen them short out internally. The filament inside the bulb break and contacts the other circuit.
I really dont understand completely what your problem is but im thinking that your blinkers are not working correctly. If so, my first suggestion is to check your wires for looseness and corrosion. clean as necessary. Check your switch. If your switch is worn out it could cause your blinkers to do a number of weird things. Replace if necessary. If your bike is equipt with an emergency flasher you might want to check to see if it is engaging and disengaging correctly. and last youll need to check your ignition switch. See if anything mightr have gotten into the socket. clean and lube with graphite.
If you have saddlebags you may have to remove them or raise the cycle high enough to drop the tire out the bottom. Center stand the motorcycle, unbolt the caliper and hang it from a piece of wire,unbolt the rear axle and remove it ( You may have to unbolt the shocks to drop the swing arm low enough so the axle clears the muffler),knock out the spacer, grab the wheel and pull it sideways/slide it off of the final drive spline, The tire should roll out the back of the wheel well now. If it gets caught on the final drive spline let the air out of the tire and squeeze it past. Before reassembly go to the local Honda and purchase some Moly60 Paste to lubricate the spline of the final drive.
make sure the choke cable and throttle cable linkage is freely operating, when you close the choke does the choke on the carbs close?, if that is not the problem you will need to go through the carbs the throttle sliders may be sticking, these are the only real issue u can have, the system is all mechanically operated so something is sticking.
To read the serial number on a Honda PC50 moped, follow these steps:
Locate the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): The VIN is a unique code that provides information about your moped. On a Honda PC50, you can find the VIN in the following places:
Under the Air Filter Cover: Look on the left-hand side, just above the engine. The VIN should be stamped there. It typically looks like this: PC50 - 1234567.
Frame Number: The frame number is another term for the VIN. It's usually located near the air filter body.
Decode the VIN: The VIN contains important details about your moped, including the year of manufacture. Here's how to interpret it:
The 9th digit of the VIN is a check digit.
The 10th digit represents the year code. For example:
A = 1980
B = 1981
C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
X = 1999
1 = 2000
2 = 2001
3 = 2002
Note that if your scooter was manufactured between February 1986 and February 1987, it's likely to be a '87 model;
Additional Resources:
If you have the full VIN, you can use the NHTSA VIN decoder to get detailed information about your moped.
Alternatively, you can call Honda with your VIN, and they will provide you with the necessary information.
