20 Most Recent 1976 Honda GL 1000 (K1) - Page 2 Questions & Answers

If you are sitting on the motorcycle, the upper right hand corner of the radiator, Look behind that corner of the radiator , behind the radiator, on the frame, you will see a plate with two holes 1 1/2" apart for mounting the horn. You should also find one green and one black wire with flat tab style female ends on them. Those are the horn positive and negative wires.

Take off seat, take off bar that was under seat,take off rear wheel, take off rear fender,drain tank, take off fuel petcock, you may have to get a shock or two out of the way, At any rate you should now get the big picture . The tank comes straight out the back of the motorcycle through the rear wheel area.

Loosen the belt tensioner on that side , take the belt off and carefully rotate the cam to the timing mark. Do not force it , you don't want to bend a valve. You may have to turn the motor so there is room to turn the cam to the correct position. Make sure all the marks are lined up, put the belt back on, and reset the tensioner. Now double check the timing marks before finishing the reassembly.

If you've got OIL marks on the right hand side of the rear wheel, you've got leaks. That must get fixed or you will wreck the final drive. Keep the level up with 90wt Hypoid gear oil. Some of the seals for the drive unit are hard to come by.

If you have GREASE marks it's not so serious. That could be simply from over greasing the splines, although there is a seal that could be gone. To check, pull the wheel off and clean out the grease.
Always use a 60% moly grease on the splines.

Not sure if this is what you want.
If the carb rack is fully built up:
1) remove the air cutoff valve from behind the #1 carb. Be careful not to loose the two O rings.
2) remove the CV caps (and springs) from the two right hand carbs
3) the rack will now slide in from the left side. Re-fit the caps and the cut off valve once it's roughly in place and it's easier to attach the throttle cable at this point too.
4) Carefully fit the large O rings between the heads and the intake trumpets: It's very easy to have them fall down into the cylinder head ports!! Use some Vaseline on them if necessary to stick them in place (NOT GREASE!)
5) attach the choke cable and the fuel line to the fuel pump.
6) go over everything and check it. Make sure that the bands on the rubber inlet boots are tight.

75-83 is when gl1000's were made. the data tag is on the frame left side at the tripple tree.

Check if theres live current with a tester on the brake light switch.

Since the clutch pack is working, cable, etc, then it is not any of that. Kinda leaves shift linkage in the transmission and the 3 shift forks, bearing, gears and the like. All of these components require engine removal and the case split to repair. I would check the linkages prior to the transmission and their adjustment first. Hope this helps you with your scoot. Rick

If I were in your shoes, id join the Honda Riders club - pay the fee. With that membership, you get access tgo the complete Honda service manual for your bike. In my experience, Honda Manuals are tops. Im certain your procedure will be outlined step by step in the Honda Manual.

If you still have the original coils I suspect the coils, coil wires(part of the coil), or the spark plug caps are not working properly. Accel makes a coil that will bolt in directly. The coil to buy is dictated by whether you are still using points or have switched to an electronic ignition(highly recommended) available from Parts Unlimlited. Start with the plug caps should ohm at 5000 , anything else replace them. Accel coils come with wires but you will need screw on plug tops. One other thing to check would be the air cut valve if it is old and sticking it can cause problems. You can take off of top of carbs by taking off air cleaner(Don't lose the o-rings.)Any way therer is a place to start.

You can get all the specs. Here on link below.

http://www.motorbikes.be/en/Honda_GL_1000_(K1)_1976.aspx

This sounds pretty suspicious. Check the frame number and engine number if you have it. They may have switched bikes or engines on you. If it went in fine then it should come out even better. The shop has probably switched engines on you because one of the mechanics has a friend whose engine has a metallic banging noise and didn't want to pay the $1800+ to replace the crankshaft.

Any shop that says you don't have to pay is pulling something shady on you. I can't feature any way a crankshaft goes in good and comes out bad. In all likelihood, (from your description), a connecting rod is broken or the rod bearings are shot. I get angry when a shop pulls this ****. Go back to the guy who sold you the bike. Maybe he has the engine number on an old repair bill or sales slip. Talk to the owner of the shop. Chances are the mechanic, when asked, will say it came in that way. Find the original engine number and you have a basis for a lawsuit.

im not certain as i dont have a maintanance manual for that bike, but intake valve clearance should be approx .004 and exhaust valves should be appxox .008 also you may consider taking the coils to a shop and have them tested. coils after warming up will begin to fail once they start to go bad. spark will be great when the bike is cold, but once it warms up, spark begins to fade and hit and miss.. this may be the problem. hope this helps.

neutral switch has stuck or broke

What does it do like if you start out in 2nd? And what's happening in the other gears? If all the other gears are fine, then it could be linkage type problem. Wings dont usually have too many tranny problems. If not adjustment problem, then time to remove frame rail & drop engine i suspect. Hope this helps you with your scoot, Rick

Never heard of that. I use Schwable Marathon Plus' on my touring bicycles and have never had anyone (including the Schwable factory rep) mention putting tires in a basement. Besides, I don't have a basement. I'm pretty happy with the Bridgestones on my Shadow Aero. 12,500+ on them and they still have a lot of life left. I will need to replace the tires on my Rebel next year and I'll probably go with Metzlers. When the time comes to replace the Shadows tires, I'll get Metzlers for them as well. Two of my Guzzi have Metzlers and they feel superior to the Bridgestones. Better traction on the road when its raining out. And the few times I've ridden when its snowing, the Metzlers gripped MUCH better than the Bridgestones.

HiClutch not disengagingMake sure cable has only a couple of mm play. If unable to adjust at handlebars then adjust at clutch endA quick & dramatic way to unseize clutches is to put front wheel up against a wall or similar, bike at 90 degrees to it, front brake on, with full riders weight on seat, in neutral hold clutch in & handlebars straight, rev her up to 3 - 4000rpm, brace your arms & dump her into 1st gearThe shock will generally free-up even a completely seized clutchThe other option is to strip & clean the clutch platesRide SafeBike-Doc

Honda rarely puts there part number on there parts. Any numbers on the parts are usually manufacturers numbers (not Honda's). You may have to match them up by walking through a salvage yard or by looking at pictures on Ebay of instruments for sale. You may be able to use any manufacturing dates on the instruments to get the year close.

Oil in the radiator / coolant is usually a sign of a weak or blown head gasket, although if you are also running oil lines through the same radiator to cool things down, a pinhole leak in the radiator can also give the same symptoms.

With a head gasket leak, in severe cases, you may see air bubbles (of exhaust gas) in the coolant when the motor is running. Note that head gasket leaks may occur only when the engine is cold and will slow down as the engine warms up and metal parts expand. However, these leaks will get worse over time--visible oil in the radiator is generally not a good sign.