20 Most Recent 2006 Gilera Runner VRX 200 Questions & Answers

1.check your mechanical seal at the water pump
2.if leak athe engine pls check the gasket
3.your themorstat stuck and overheat and produce a power presure that push out the coolant(thermorstat location at the engine block)

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher at hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slides back in the throat of the carbs, Move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

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their should be a gold nipple on the inlet manifold that pipe should be on that nipple get back 2 me my fend

its sounds like its the rollers in the drive system...they wear flats on them!!...& this is why you wont have drive...it will be trying to like set off in 2nd gear insted of 1st....should be farily easy to sort...& not that expensive

Go get a safety pin and curve the pointed end with a long nose pliers
enough to fit your ignition key. Then, straight it out enough for you
to move the curve end of the pin. Then insert the curve pointed end
to the ignition, until it take all the paper inside piece by piece. Pls
send your e mail and vote.
Another solution is to take the ignition key assembly off the case
and replace it with another.

hi buddy the plug should be a
br9eix <iridium plug will last longer dearer
br9eg <racing type use
br9es <cheaper standard one
go on ebay and get these and the tyre should be 20-30psi but i would go inbeetween 25psi buddy

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Free manual download in alphabetical order...the runner is listed

u can try to check properly at the key barrel holder which is a solid metal tube.there is a steel clips hape like rectangle u band shape.either at front or back at the metal tube holder.u hace to use a small torchlight to see it.it was hidden inside.u have to use a very small and thin yet strong flat screw driver or anything to peel or pull the pin out.but make sure u dont to major damage to the clip otherwise when u install the key barell back it wont hold your key barrel to the body back.

put choke and start the bike in the morning

Yes All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner. Here's the formulation of WD-40: 80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene) 20% light lubricating oil and a bit of fragrance. Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics: Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals) Buna-N (Nitrile) Chemraz Epichlorohydrin Fluorocarbon Fluorosilicone Kalrez Nitrile, hydrogenated Polyacrylate Teflon, virgin Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals) Neoprene Vamac Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals) Polysulfide Polyurethane, millable Poor Compatibility Butyl Ethylene-Propylene Hypalon Natural rubber Silicone Styrene Butadiene Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor. Link: http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.,,,

Does it have a factory imobilizer, or afteremarket 1

more likely a fuel hose problem.. could be a clogged filter, a pinched hose even a dirty carburetor .. it's not a tight clog it just slows the fuel enough to starve the engine then over time it drips enough fuel into the carb to allow start and run for a short while before clogging again

It sounds as though the mixture is way too rich. Is the choke stuck on or malfunctioning? With is dry spark plug but fuel in the carburetor, try turning the fuel valve and choke off and then with ignition on and holding the throttle at least 1/2 open, kick the engine over several times. If it starts under these conditions then perhaps the float(s) in the float bowel have leaked and are full of gasoline causing the fuel to flow continuously into the throat of the carb then into the engine. It probably is some sort of carb mixture setting, choke or needle valve/float problem.

CHECK THE CABLES THAT GOES TO THE SPARK PLUGS. IT MIGHT BE LOOSE OR BROKEN.

manual Brakes start 219 http://www.bellamoto.rs/upl/files/NEXUS/Nexus%20250%20i.e.%20E3%20MY%202006%20TEHNICKO%20UPUTSTVO.pdf

Possible warped/cracked head or cylinder wall.

Time to disassemble the engine again,,, you can see what is causing the problem ... proceed from there...

242 cc +/- 3 cc (8.2oz)