20 Most Recent 1985 Ducati 750 F1 Questions & Answers


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DUCATI 1985 1988 750 F1 750 MONTJUICH WORKSHOP REPAIR SERVICE MANUAL...

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1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Feb 29, 2016


ask at www.gawa-guzzi.de

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Mar 17, 2013


you could restamp them with number punches, but it may look as if the bike has been stolen, so I would make sure you have all the correct paperwork in order and check with main roads first.

the only time I have seen worn numbers is they were worn out with an angle grinder

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Dec 17, 2010


Here is a link to a place you can find the entire manual http://www.bevelheaven.com/

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Mar 15, 2009


so according to his book my bike does not exist. The book that he is using is titled something like Ducati v twin restoration guide. He is a good mechanic but I would like to find out more before proceeding further with the restoration. Can anyone help ? Thanks in advancehe numbers on the frames and engines mean nothing when working out a model and age. In the factory engines were not matched to frames via their numbers they were simply put together. Any book that gives definite numbers for a model is full of sh!t. A good example is all the pics you see of crates of engines in no particular order. There was no need for an engine to match a frame number so they never went to the trouble. The engines were used in many models and bikes, including your era, the Cagive Elephant etc.... Your bike is probably correct, even though the book says it shouldn’t exist. The numbers for the books come from the first number to just the last number, and are not necessarily relevant for any number in between.,,,

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Dec 28, 2008


from the solenoid to the battery. And also connected a new ground. I left the original ground cable in place and connected the new one to one of the bolts in the clutch cover. After measuring with a multimeter this was the best one I found. I used 16 mm thick power cable that's normally applied in cars. Twice as big as the stock wiring with huge connections for maximum contact. When I tried to start the bike it fired up like never before. Waaauw. Measured the battery voltage at 3000 rpm and read 13.7 V on the multimeter must be enough. I didn't bother to measure the regulator, cause the charging system seems to be working just fine. Took the bike for a spin around the block, stopped, shut it off and started right up again. Before the cable transplant , even getting it started with a warm engine was a hassle. Now you can really hear the starter click without effort. Also tested at high speed/revs, the rev needle doesn't jump up and down anymore. The dashboard light doesn't flicker anymore. Well, juuuust a little bit, but not more than it should. The clock didn't jump to 00:00 anymore. So I guess the faulty ground, corroded connections and the original wires were causing most of my problems. Luckily I have a week off from work next week, so I got all the time to test the bike. I even think I'll put the fairing right back on tomorrow morning, if the bike starts at first attempt after a cold night in the garage. It's sure a good test to build my confidence back up. Quite important if my bike should get me to work every morning. Thanks again for all the advice guys. I hope I'll still have good news in 3 or 4 days, after I properly tested my red fury. For everyone else who has read this thread. Keep your connections clean and change your stock wiring to bigger wires even if you don't have starting problems (yet)!,It does sound like the battery may not be holding it's charge very well. If it's not very recent it may be due for replacing. A 10W40 oils should be ok for both winter and summer and is what is specified by Ducati for temperatures down to -10C. Although a 5w40 might give the starter an easier time, I suspect that the real culprit is the battery.,,,

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008


I know this is a maintenance question but I'm looking for a little local information. I went to clean my chain yesterday and noticed that it's way too long. There's a bit of kinking too so it's time to get a new chain. The chain maintenance info on this board seems pretty detailed and doesn't look too hard (lol perhaps I should mention that I'm a noobie and haven't worked on my bike much yet). Should I attempt this on my own? Any suggestions where in TO I should get the chain and tools? Or should I take the bike to Rev Cycle (any rough estimates on price)?,Depending on your skill and comfort level you can probably tackle this job OK, here are some rules (I'm making up early Saturday morning without the benefit of coffee) Buy the best quality chain you can buy, (x or o ring) If the chain is screwed chances are your sprockets are too (yeah I know $$$) It's a good time to go up in the rear or down in the front (sprocket teeth, don't do both) if your bike has a single swing arm forget it (tools stands etc too much hassle adjusting probably not worth it just take it too the dealer unless your very determined and are investing in the tools and time etc) otherwise no biggee. Now so your chain lasts don't over adjust, unsprung the chain will appear loose get some else to sit on the bike as you check the chain tension all the way through the suspension travel check chain and sprocket alignment (laser, eye ball whatever) sometimes shims or other pieces go missing (especially when chain have kinks or wear prematurely) chain wax is your friend, lube it hot and use a clean rag to get excess and clean sprockets.,,,

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008


fouling plugs and backfiring. Runs much better at high RPM's. I realize that the problem is likley worn needle jets after reading through forums. I am just looking for a little direction on what to do exactly. I haven't messed with carbs much and am concerned with messing something up. I have a Haynes manual, but still am lost.,Hi, I have a 98 M750 that I have had for 8 years and it has done 110,000Klm (68,000 miles) when it had done about 20,000Klm it was doing the same thing as yours fouling plugs and running rough at low speeds, so I took it to a good dyno tuner and he found the bottom end rich and the top enp end lean, resetted the floats and rejetted all good again. So just find a good dyno tuner. Let me know how it is going after the tune up.,,,

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008


quick story bought a 98 750 with 8000 k's on it and staintunes slip ons thinking i'll get some fun and good mileage. Anyway, it was running very rich and kept fouling plugs. So i thought i'd buy a dynojet stage 1 kit and aftermarket filter after reading some posts. Now its exact opposite, when i do a plug check its way too lean. After examining the jets it seems the mikuni originals are bigget than the new dynojet, so i swapped back, and colour of plugs is maybe slightly less white but still too lean. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated,You better go back and see what you missed. I know I had my carb bank on and off so many times I thought I was good at it. One time, I forgot to do up the clamps to the intake manifold. Ran really lean. What about your float height? Did you set it to the new specs to the proper side? It's the square sided float, not the crazy shaped one. Did you put the new needles in with all the washers? From the top down, it's the clip, then the plastic one, then the bigger steel shim. They all need to go in. You must have missed something as those kits usually run richer.,,,

1985 Ducati 750... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008


Hi, Anonymous first perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery and start the engine, if meter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the voltmeter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue and free valuable downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Ducati 750 F1... | Answered on Feb 24, 2016


ignition module needs replaced used to be called cdi ignition

Ducati... | Answered on Aug 15, 2020


Clearance issues aside, you need the proper mounts. If they make them, they will work, aside from tank clearance issues. If they don't make the proper kit, just don't do it. Handlebars are not something to experiment with when you're traveling down the highway at 60+ mph. Ever had a simple grip come off? Not fun, trust me.

Ducati... | Answered on Jul 27, 2019


Change the spark plugs and it should work good

Ducati... | Answered on Apr 04, 2019


to check to see if its an electrical problem it the starter button it self find the starter relay take a wrench or a screw driver and make contact between the 2 copper posts that are sticking out from the relay if it turns over than you will know that it is the push button if it doesn't turn over than you know that its the starter. LARRY B

Ducati... | Answered on Mar 07, 2019


Find out with your meter where the high amp draw is coming from and why.

Ducati... | Answered on Feb 22, 2019


The turn- bank sensor may think you have wrecked or just tipped over the bike. It may need to be replaced. Have you had to lay it down lately? Usually they reset after being turned on again after a lay down. It might not be resetting. Good Luck with that one.

Ducati... | Answered on Jan 20, 2019


Turn the lights on and check. If the lights works, then the battery is fine. More likely faulty coil or a broken connection.

You can check the coil. Connect a wire to the positive side of the battery. Touch the wire on the positive side of the coil. When you RELEASE the wire, you should get a spark.

Ducati... | Answered on Dec 18, 2017

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