20 Most Recent 2008 Beta RR 125 Enduro Questions & Answers

Within Microsoft Office, there is a publishing programme call FrontPage. This is very useful to put web pages together and if you use the F1 button, all you will ever need to know will be there written by Microsoft Engineers as a tutorial.
The first thing you need is a web site from an IP supplier like Uk2.net. They cost anything from £4.00 for a basic name to hundreds of pounds for hosted sites.
Good luck and spend as long as you need with the tutorial.

Don't open more than one bleeder at a time. Oh, and pumping the brake handle doesn't do anything. It doesn't build up pressure like a car does. What you what you want to do is squeeze the brake lever, open the bleeder to are doing at the time (master cylinder first, right next to the brake lever) while you are holding the brake lever in, close the bleeder. When you let go of the brake lever, it will **** in fluid from the reservoir. Then squeeze the lever again, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let go again. Keep doing this until you don' see any more air bubbles come out and MAKE SURE you do not let the reservoir go empty. If it goes empty, you just put air in there and have to do it again.

Once you get down to the calipers, try to do it fairly quickly. The air bubbles move slow through the lines, but once the fluid stops moving, they will slowly start moving back up. If you let go of the lever with the bleeder open, it will **** fluid from where ever it can get it, so it will pull from the reservoir AND the hose you are trying to bleed, so it will just **** the air bubbles back higher in the line

then the same problem occurs again. I tried a new voltage regulator but it is still charging at 15.3 volts at an idle. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!!! That sounds more like an ignition problem to me - especially if you can fire up the bike a few minutes later. I'm suspecting a heat related problem with the ignition, most likely in the coils or pickup. Not being familiar with the layout of your bike, I can't give you much more help than that.,,,

I noticed a repetetive whirring coming from somewhere near the front sprocket- Or at least I'm pretty sure that's where it's coming from. It's not quite a grinding but it sounds like some sort of contact problem. I jacked up the bike, and the rear wheel spins freely in neutral except for a small area which seems to need just a *little* more force to spin around. Not sure if it's from the rear wheel or from whatever might be wrong up towards the front. The noise has an accompanying gritty feel, which rather reminds me of a bent rotor rubbing lightly at a certain point once per cycle on the brake pad. No amount of variation of pressure or speed in braking seems to affect the problem. There's no obvious performance issues, and I only hear it when I've got the clutch pulled in (probably because it's not loud enough to hear over the exhaust, not because it isn't happening). I ran the bike downhill in neutral and it still makes this noise. I lubed and adjusted the chain a day or so ago, and the adjustment notches are at the same point on each side. I had also ridden over a set of train rails cut deeply into the road, but I doubt that had much impact on anything. Any ideas?,Sounds like your chain may not have stretched evenly. You also may have it adjusted too tightly. You should always adjust the chain so that you have the specified slack at its tightest point. Do you know how many miles/KMs are on on this chain/sprocket set?,,,

This is a massively common problem ith ducati's from all of my research without a complete rework of how the oil flows it will do that like clockwork on long wheelies heck it was on speedvision the other night a bike show had that really famous black stunt rider on a Hypermotard he warned them about the problem they asked him to do a long wheelie anyway and sure enough it dumped oil halfway through the shot, caught on camera spewin oil all over the place. From my understanding there are modifications that can be done to overcome this, I just don't know what they are,,,

Here are 2 links. This one has a generic wiring for the fan. https://www.carlsalter.com/all-motorcycle-manuals.asp This one has a '99 manual that can be downloaded. I didn't so no promises. Free Beta Motorcycle Service Manuals for download

consult your doctor on this.

In terms of asking health questions about prescription drugs, you should ask that question of the doctor who issued the prescription or the pharmacist who filled it. I would not risk my life on the advice of random strangers on the internet who may not know their elbow from another part of their body. WEBMD.com states that grapefruit can affect beta blockers and to contact your doctor.

Some common causes and potential solutions: Air/Vacuum Leak: If your Harley develops a vacuum leak in its air intake system, the air-fuel mixture becomes too rich. This can cause frequent stall outs, especially after the bike warms up. Vacuum leaks often occur due to dried-out or cracked air intake boots, faulty gaskets, or worn-out carburetor seals. When air escapes from the intake system, the fuel fills the empty space in the combustion chamber, altering the air/fuel ratio and negatively impacting combustion. Severe vacuum leaks can lead to excess fuel flowing into the exhaust system, causing backfiring and stalling while riding. Clogged Fuel Tank Filter/Fuel Injectors: A blocked fuel tank filter (due to coagulated fuel, moisture, dirt, or corrosion) impairs fuel flow, resulting in a lean air/fuel ratio. On fuel-injected Harleys, clogged fuel injectors produce similar symptoms. Regular maintenance, including cleaning and inspecting fuel filters, helps prevent these issues. Faulty Cam Chain Tensioner: A malfunctioning cam chain tensioner can affect engine timing and cause stalling. Regular checks and replacements are essential to avoid this problem. Faulty Cam Position Sensor: The cam position sensor plays a crucial role in ignition timing. If it malfunctions, it can lead to stalling and backfiring. Clogged Air Cleaner: A dirty air cleaner restricts airflow, affecting combustion efficiency. Regularly clean or replace the air filter to prevent this issue. Ignition System Failure: Faulty ignition components (such as spark plugs, ignition coils, or wires) can cause misfires, backfires, and stalling. Inspect and maintain these parts regularly. Compromised Battery Terminal Connection: Poor battery connections can disrupt electrical flow, affecting the ignition system. Ensure clean and secure battery terminals. Remember that diagnosing and addressing these issues may require professional assistance. Regular maintenance and timely repairs can keep your Fat Boy running smoothly on the road.