Hi, Ian and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
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I believe it is easier if you start unbolting and removing the glove compartment in front of your knees. At it's left side on the inside is the other end of the seat's cable. Pull it's end and hopefully the seat will open. Also check the mechanism triggered by the button if it works properlyIf it doesn't, that means that your cable is cut in half. Then you start removing the left foot side pad and then move on to the rear cowl's bolts hidding underneath it in the back. On the seat's left side is the seat cable's other end and the release mechanism but quite deep behind the cowl.Just try to pull, eventually, the cable manualy.
Hi, Johan I would really love to help you with your bike question but due to the magnitude of yesterday's solar flare the batteries in my crystal ball are dead and my mental telepathy headset circuitry was melted. I need the year, make, and model of your motorcycle please click on " Ask For More Information" directly below and provide this information in the box that will open and then click on the green "SEND" box in the bottom right-hand corner after it posts I will receive an "ALERT" icon that will allow me to respond to your information. Good luck and have a wonderful day.