20 Most Recent 2009 Suzuki Boulevard C90T Questions & Answers

People resurrecting posts from 2013! You think he still has the bike and needs this fixing?

• T Miner Sep 03, 2017 Try experimenting with the octane level of your gas. Might help.
• johnny bonacci Sep 03, 2017 check for loose motor mounts or a loose exhaust.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+Suzuki+Boulevard+C90T+excessive+vibration ....

Sounds like a battery issue. The c90 did not come with a radio so I'm sure its aftermarket which the bike was not designed to handle... trickle charging only charges a weak battery... take a load test and make sure you have atleast 10 vdc when the bike is cranking.. easy test jumper cables to a known good 12 volt battery and that the jumping vehicle NOT RUNNING! If it starts with no issue you have a faulty battery

The oil filter is located at the very front of the engine. It is below the battery, thus making it rather difficult to see. It is mounted in a horizontal position under the battery bracket.

The large chrome cover on the left/rear or the engine(not the front cover with the round access plug in the center of it) has a slot near the bottom that the coolant reserve tank can be viewed through. This is difficult to see and will require a flashlight or cover removal. There are three 4mm allen head screws that hold this cover on. The upper right(4th one) is a cosmetic screw and does not require removal to get the cover off. If this tank is dry it would be best to remove the front radiator cover and check the coolant level in the radiator itself. Perform this only when engine is cold.

look at this http://www.servicerepairmanualonline.com/category/motorcycle-manuals/suzuki/wish help!if you need laptop components?goto laptop parts

You need to pull the shifter off and move it to a different position on the shaft. One little notch makes a big difference on a shift-shaft.

stuck float or electric problem suzuki seems to be having alot of electril problems i am seeing a pattern check for factory recalls also i would complain to the manifactor they are not building them like they use to just a observation

starter or starting problem, if starter, bd connection, worn bushes.

F1 means check for a fault code, you have to put a wire between the white plug terminals.

clean the battery terminals with a wire brush and tighten the connections up snug

on what bike mate, you need to be more descriptive, READ WORKSHOP MANUAL ON TESTING F1 LIGHT, THERE is a way to check the fault codes, but I recon it will come up 00

Forks on a motorcycle are usually comprised of springs, oil, and valves. Some have the option for air, some are nitrogen charged. Some also have adjustments for preload and rebound. Best bet is grab an owners manual to be sure which type you have and go from there. If yours are pressurized with air or nitrogen, check the pressure to see if it is within factory specifications. If not adjust accordingly. *WARNING* Many of these style are easily damaged from too much air pressure say from that of an air compressor like those used for automotive tools. If you need to add pressure, the safest bet is to use a simple hand/foot operated pump similar to those used for a bicycle. You may also call your local Suzuki dealer and ask if they have a lighter spring for the forks. Swapping these can be done DIY with patience and proper tools or imagination with other tools you may already have. One last option is to replace the oil as it maybe time for it to be serviced and just fresh oil may do the trick, that is if the bike when you got it originally felt better than now. I wish you the best of luck with your bike and safe riding from a fellow rider.

The problem is more likely to be ignition related. And yes, they do have a fuel filter. Usually in the fuel tap, but sometimes in the fuel line as well. Fuel starvation would not cause the symptoms as you describe them. A misfire would, you would get unburned fuel in the exhaust and it would then be ignited by the next fire stroke going into the exhaust. The fault could be something as simple as a failing spark plug or lead.

Replace regulator/rectifier

It takes a very fresh battery to start those bikes, possibly the battery you traded to use wasnt in its prime either, also if you have a charging issue then the same thing will happen, check your stator and voltage regulator for problems.

Many times a common cause the rebound dampening of the forks them selves. Forks have large springs internally as well as tubes with various holes the restrict the fluid flow. When you carry your front wheel or pop a wheelie the springs immediately pop the forks to the max extended position and make a metallic clunk. Check your owners manual for correct fork fluid viscosity and volumne. Replace and set correctly.
Check for cable guides that may interfere with fork travel. They may have to be repositioned.
Your front fender may have loose fasteners and the bracket between the tire and the fender is clanking.
Keep on riding,
TF

Remove the right side cover and remove the the liner for the tool kit. This will expose the shock, Use the tool provided in the tool kit to adjust the nut up or down below the spring. Up for more preload, down for less. Its esier if you use a pipe on the end of the tool for leverage as there's not much room to work with.

• One of two or both things are happening.

1. That starter relay is stuck closed and your hearing the voltage arc in the relay. Replace the relay.
2. But first before replacing the relay check the battery for proper voltage. If you arched that battery you may have ruined it. Should read 12 volts. If not charge it a bit and give another try. An auto parts store can give it a load teat for free and tell you if it is bad despite voltage as 12 volts does not always = good battery.
3. So first check the battery voltage with a multi-meter. Then take the battery to have it tested. This will prevent buying a relay that may not be be necessary. If the battery tests good both ways then the relay must be replaced.

Regards, Tony

First check all the conections on and around the regulator rectifier, also alternator, disconect the rectifier, carefully observe the unit for corrosion, and visible damage to the unit like burning to the rear bakalite construction, and the three yellow wires on the unit, the three yellow wires come from the alternator, converting the ac voltage to dc charging the battery via red wire, check the alternator output on the three yellows with the engine running they should all be around the same voltage,

Hello. It sounds like your transmission fluid is a wee bit low. Check that out.