20 Most Recent 2009 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide - Page 3 Questions & Answers

pipes been changed ??? air filter as well ??? suspect someones tried to either put a power commander on it or "tune it" if this isn't the issue, suspect internal valve adjustment/cam issues. would need more info because i suspect someones tried to add some Harley power and opps...

check wiring arond the throttle body

Later Harley's (like your husbands) have a system that when the ECU (Electrical Control Unit) senses something wrong, it goes into "limp home" mode, where top speed is limited to 20-25 MPH, just enough to "limp home"First, he needs to check the error codes, or TDCs (Trouble Diagnosis Code(s)).I have a 2008, but the method might be the same for a '09.Make sure the right hand handlebar kill switch is in the "RUN" position.While holding in the odometer reset button, turn ignition switch to "ON".All instrument and warning lights should illuminate, and the speedometer should sweep all the way to maximum, then back to "0" MPH.Scroll through the readings (where the odometer displays) with the reset button, writing down any error codes.

it is coming from the crankcase vent behind the air filter, some companies offer a kit if it causes a problem for you.

Verify the temperature unit is not bad. Should not be running so hot this time of year. I suspect you have a bad tempature sending unit.

Your bike has "throttle-by-wire" instead of cables.From different forums, quite a few people complain about the same thing.It is claimed that the dealership can plug into the ECM and do a little programming to ease/alleviate the problem, so you might call and check.

Have you pulled any error codes?If so, what are they?I have a troubleshooting flow chart for a 08 Road King, it might be close enough for ya.From your description, it's going into "limp" mode, so it can limp home.Pull any error codes and repost them.

I have a 2008 Road King, so I imagine the method to retrieve the codes would be the same.Retrieve fault codes:With engine run/stop switch in the RUN position, hold odometer reset button while turning ignition switch to ON position.Speedometer back lights wil come on, needle swings to top speed position, indicator lights will come on.Release reset button."diag" should display in odometer.Push and release odometer reset button. The letter "P" will flash (ECM/ICM info obtainable).Record any error codes. If none are present, "NONE" will scroll across screen.Press and hole reset button for more than 5 seconds to go to next mode ("S" = TSM/TSSM/HFSM mode).When done with all modes, switch off ignition.Either look up codes in manual, or repost here.

attatch the spring first before the pivot bolt...you can then use the stand as a leverage handle to line the holes up for the bolt against the spring tension.

My appologies it took so long to get back. The screen cracked on my laptop so I will try a more detailed answer later today. Till then. Does your check engine light come on? And do you have a power commander or anything like that? Sometimes the fly by wire throttle sensor can go bad. Let me know if your check engine light is on too and I'll walk you thru how to pull the codes.

The functions key is also your tripometer button. so depress the trip button untill it displays the time. Now, press and hold it in untill the first number blinks.let it go. now press it quickly untill you have the correct number for that time. now with the digit still blinking, press it again and hold it in again, untill the next number bilnks. Keep doing this untill your time is what you want. and on the last digit, press and hold it in again will set you back to your normal, and you can press it to get your tripometer, time, and odometer

10,000 miles is about the life expectancy on the rear pads. By failing, do you mean the rotor is warping?

Don't know why you would want a softer clutch but you can get weaker clutch springs

Contact me directly at [email protected] and I'll send you a drawing of the oil lines. Don't forget to remind me of what you need.

Steve

If you are checking from one of the stator prongs to engine ground and you get continuity, your stator is bad. It would probably be a good idea to replace the regulator. I think Harley sells a kit that is priced fairly reasonable. But, check the rotor. I've seen one rotor that didn't have any magnetism in it. That's right, It was a genuine Harley part and the rotor had no magnetism in it. It was a friend of mine that put the stator in another guy's bike but it wouldn't charge. I checked everything and found nothing wrong except no output. Pulled it down and that's what we found. We simply put the guy's old rotor on it and it worked fine.

Good Luck
Steve

Take the air filter off but leave the backing plate on. Start the engine and rev it up a bit while watching the slide inside the carb. It should move up and back down when you rev the engine. Now, don't rev it so high as to blow the engine up just up to about three thousand RPM or so. Don't get your face too close to the carb. If the slide doesn't move up and down, you've probably got a hole in the diaphragm that controls the movement of the slide. That's my best guess since you didn't say it was running badly just wouldn't run over 35 miles per hour.

Good luck
Steve