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2008 kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Questions & Answers
Drain fuel tank
Turn fuel petcock to off. Take off fuel line coming from petcock and use that hose, or one the same size, to run from petcock to gas container. (have paper towels or something ready because fuel left trapped in fuel line will leak out even with petcock off). With hose going in container turn petcock to normal "run" position and drain until dry - lean bike side to side to get it all. *Note - it usually drains faster with fuel cap off. Then turn petcock to "reserve" setting and do the same to get the fuel out of reserve partition in tank. Most tanks are only held on by a few bolts at rear and rubber "slide on" knobs at front, so if you remove seat and the few tank bolts you slide tank backwards and it comes off. Then you can do this draining outside / away from anything.
1992 kawasaki vulcan 1500:
The air should bleed out until coolant appears at the housing.
If air keeps coming back maybe a head gasket problem.
Is the cap good
My 1995 Vulcan 1500 died
you say the bike cranks but do you have spark? apart from that check your main fuse ,after that things get tricky and time for a shop to look it over
The front tire on my
The real wheel is likely not centered. Check the rear wheel and carefully measure the distances from the axle to a fixed point they need to be even. If they're not you will get the uneven tire wear you describe.
Hi! I just bougt the
It sounds like a slightly bent shift fork and / or a broken gear tooth or two. Getting to the shift forks and gears is a pretty major undertaking and the repair is not recommended for the novice mechanic. Your best bet is to take the bike to a dealer and let a mechanic make a determination as to the problem. Transmission repairs are somewhat expensive. A single cylinder bike may cost $750 or so to fix. A four cylinder is more likely to be in the $1700+ range.
Starts fine runs like a
The clutch/neutral/side stand safety switch connectors or conductors
becomming loose or disconnected .
Air in the clutch hydraulic system or other clutch related problem.
Defective clutch safety switch.
Defective neutral safety switch.
Defective side stand safety switch.
Does the engine rev in neutral with no problems? Does engine rev in gear with
clutch disengaged (lever pulled)?
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Get the switches checked.Most probably, its causing the problem.But if switches checked out ok, then it can be clutch related issue:---
Click this link below for more help:---
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/kawasaki-motorcycle-clutch.html
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This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Kawasaki vn1500 2nd gear jumping
Hi, make sure your lever is adjusted to your foot. You can turn the linkage arm adjuster up or down to get a better throw on the lever. If you don't wear boots when riding, this is always a problem on a Kawasaki due to the positive neutral finder. The fist question you get when you call the Kawasaki Hotline is if the rider wears boots or not.
If adjusting the lever doesn't help the problem is internal. Under the gear change cover the items to check would be the pawl that rotates the drum and the detent arm and spring. If the edge of the pawl is worn, it won't move the drum far enough. If the detent arm or spring isn't working, it will want to drop into a false neutral. I've had very good luck by removing all of the parts and polishing them, removing any burrs and replacing the springs.
If the problem isn't found under the cover in the gear change area then the only other solution is to pull the motor apart and inspect the tranny itself.
I have a 2002 Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 I'm customizing it can the rectifier be moved so it's not just hanging there.
Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components.
While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:
- Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
- Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
- Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
- Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.
Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality.
If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.
12/23/2023 9:33:25 PM •
kawasaki...
•
Answered
on Dec 23, 2023
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