2008 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide won't start. Turns over fine. Starter clutch replaced 30 days ago
Not very clear what is going on.
If it is turning over now and did not before you have the starter drive (clutch) replaced then it is not acting like it did when it had a bad starter drive.
It would be a good idea to display and write down any set DTC's at this point.
If the engine is now turning over and it is turning over properly, ie fast enough move on to further diagnosis but if not check the battery voltage when it is turning over. In fact, check it anyway. If it is not above 10.0 VDC to 10.5 VDC then the ECM has possibly shut down the fuel injectors. So, if the fuel pump works properly before you turn the engine over it will pressurize the system but then after 10 seconds it will shut down and not again work unless the ignition is shut off and on again unless/until the ECM gets a power stroke signal from the CKP. Even with a fuel pressurized system if the voltage is too low there will be no injector pulse allowed by the ECM. Was there a loud pop as an intake pop or a backfire in the exhaust?? This could be significant in diagnosis of a no start symptom. Check the spark plugs first. Pull them out and visually inspect them. Are they wet or dry and clean and new looking? This is a Harley but even so a good looking, clean dry plug maybe no good for combustion. With both plugs out you will not get spark. Pull them one at at time and with each plug out and with the spark plug wires connected hold the plug against the cylinder head and turn the engine over and check for a strong blue spark If the spark is at all weak outside the cylinder and therefore not under compression pressure it will be even weaker in the cylinder under compression pressure and may not fire. However you need to test for spark to start to determine whether or not the coil is firing or not and if it is not then you need to test the coil primary and secondary next. Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals (primary) on your coil. Using a good ohmmeter on Rx1 setting, test the resistance between the two small terminals on each segment if the coil. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad. However, before you do this test short out both leads of the ohmmeter and if the reading is not zero you will need to either zero it if your meter allows you to do that OR write down or otherwise remember the number and subtract it from the reading you get from the wire test or you will have an incorrect resistance reading for the primary wires because you will also be reading the ohmmeter internal resistance and/or the wire and lead resistance added to the primary wiring resistance.
You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replacing the other side (ground side) with a short piece of wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" (ground) side. When you take the wire away from the ground, (which will collapse the primary current into the secondary) you should see a spark at the plugs if it is a wasted spark system or at one of the plugs if it is not a wasted spark system. If you have current to both sides of the primary of a two part coil both plugs should get a spark whether it is a wasted spark system or not as you are energizing both sides of the primary and collapsing both into both secondaries at the same time when you remove the ground wire from the cylinder head ground. If you see a strong blue spark you will know that the secondary is working also. You can also check the secondary with an ohmmeter. ALSO check your secondary (spark plug) wires for physical condition and damage whether you get spark to the plugs or not.
If there is spark check to see if there is fuel delivery to the cylinder(s). If there is next check to see if you have compression, either with a compression tester or by holding a finger or thumb over the spark plug hole while turning the engine over. If there is sufficient compression your finger will be forcefully blown off the hole on the compression stroke. If you have fuel delivery to the cylinder and you have compression and you have spark the spark plugs, whether good looking or not, may not be up to providing adequate spark under compression pressures and it would be a good idea to replace them with proper and properly gapped new ones. Check electrode gap with a wire-type feeler gauge. Bend
the outside of the electrode so that only a slight drag is felt on the
gauge as it passes between the electrodes. The proper
gap measurement is 0.038-0.043 in. (0.97-1.09 mm).
If you are getting spark and have compression but do not know if you are getting fueling remove the air cleaner, hold the throttle plate open a bit with a soft tool like a pencil or a wooden dowel and spray some WD40 or fuel into the intake opening. If you have compression and spark but no fuel you should get a few power strokes this way i.e. the engine will start even if only momentarily. Do not over spray or keep spraying with the throttle held open so as not to overspeed the engine if and when it starts. If you find you have fueling problems the first thing to check is battery voltage and then a fuel pressure test and go further from there if those two elements are okay. Correct voltage and fuel pressure is very important, neither can be lower than the published specs i.e. 10.5 VDC and 55 to 62 psi fuel pressure.
FUEL PRESSURE TEST
The fuel pump delivers fuel to the fuel line, to a cavity in the induction module that supplies the fuel injectors and to the pressure regulator, where the system pressure is controlled. Excess fuel pressure is bypassed to the fuel tank through the pressure regulator. The fuel pump can be turned on by applying battery voltage to the fuel pump fuse. Improper fuel system pressure may contribute to one of the following conditions: 1.Cranks, but won't run. 2. Cuts out (may feel like ignition problem). 3. Hesitation, loss of power or poor fuel economy.
TESTING
The fuel pressure gauge (0-100 PSI) allows for fuel injector and fuel system pressure diagnosis. Special adapters allow the gauge to be attached to the external fuel supply line. Normally the fuel pump, fuel line and fuel rail are under high pressure (58 psi) so they should be purged by pulling the fuel pump fuse from the EFI fuse block, starting engine and allowing it to run until quits and then cranking it over for another few seconds. Then remove the fuel line from the quick connect and install a fuel line adapter in its place. THEN install a second adapter in series with the first one( to avoid damage by kinking to the fuel line). THEN connect the fuel line to the second adapter. THEN if your tester has a fuel valve and an air bleed line verify that they are closed. Then connect the fuel pressure gauge to the Schraeder valve on the adapter. Reinstall the fuel fuse, start and idle engine to pressurize the fuel system. Open the gauge fuel valve if it has one to allow fuel to reach the gauge. If the gauge has a relief valve and line open it slightly to bleed out any air in the line until no more air is visible. Catch the escaping fuel in a safe manner. Rev the engine a few times and read the pressure gauge. The pressure should be a STEADY 55 to 62 psi (380 to 425 kPa). Disconnect and remove the gauge and adapters in a safe manner as was used to connect it in the first place and return the system to an operational state.
