20 Most Recent 2006 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard - Page 7 Questions & Answers

USE HD Formula Plus but SYN3 also great

electronic control module (ECM): EFI 36-place Packard under seat ignition module: carbureted (black) 12-place Deutsch under seat ignition module: carbureted (gray) 12-place Deutsch under seat

.038-.043

If you have done exhaust and intake changes then use a 50 on the slow and 190 on the main

If the starter spins but the engine does not turn over, usually it's a bad starter drive (Bendix). On the 88 year model there is a solenoid that pulls the starter drive into engagement with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum. Inspect this linkage. Look for a broken pin that holds the return spring on (return spring in the bottom of the primary) or a broken "Y" piece that moves the starter drive outward. If the starter bendix is bad, it will turn freely in either direction while holding the shaft from turning. It should turn freely in one direction and lock up in the other. This test is not conclusive as you cannot put the same amount of resistance on the drive as your engine can. The little nut on the end of the starter shaft has left handed threads on it. Chuck the starter drive in a vise with aluminum jaw protectors on it and remove the nut. The starter drive (Bendix) will slide right off. Buy a good replacement, not the cheap Chinese junk. Accel or OEM

breather hole on top of case

put a oil cooler on it. don't sit around idleing or around town riding it is a air cooled engine

None to find I'm afraid.

If the starter turns, but there is no battery power reaching the headlights and no battery power reaching the ignition system there is a fault in some part of the electrical system used by both headlights and the ignition system, but not the starter motor. Check all the fuses, if any are bad or dirty replace them then try again, then check the new fuses to see if they have 'blown' if they have you have a serious short-circuit in the wiring or other electrical component, replace the fuses again and remove all the headlight and tail bulbs and try again.

remove the 1/2 " nut in the middle of the dash. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

Not to be silly but check your on/off kill switch... if it is in the ON it still may be in the switch... pull the clutch in Neutral safety switch is also in the circuit. Does it try to turn over? If you hear starter engage check starter solenoid or drive if the motor runs

Usually with a flywheel caused vibration problem, it's because one of the two flywheel halves shifted, causing an unbalanced condition.This is what the flywheel assembly (with connecting rods) looks like:https://www.sscycle.com/product/secure/images/products/5036.jpgUsually, the left side shifts, as dropping the clutch acts almost like a brake on that side of the flywheel, while the right side continues to run free.While I can't diagnose your particular problem from here, if the flywheels do need rebalancing/aligning, the engine cases have to be split to get to them.

Usually if the brake light is on all the time, it's a bad front brake light switch.There's a little tab that the front brake lever pushes against that turns the switch off.If this tab is broken off (usually because the front master cylinder was incorrectly reinstalled) or if it is worn down, the light stays on.

When you are bleeding the brake lines you should only notice pressure when the bleed nipple is closed. If the brake lever travels to the bar with the nipple closed, then you still have air in the system.

NO..

reremove the seat bolt located on the rear of the seat..pick up and pull totoward rear of bike..

Keep me posted on the problems if they persist. I'll see what I can do!

Sounds like either the carburator float is stuck, or there is a piece of dirt between the carb needle and seat, or the rubber on the bottom of the needle is cracked. The bottom of the carb (float bowl) must be removed to check the float level. Instructions for doing this are in the service manual. With a carb this old, a carb rebuild wouldn't hurt. The kit for this isn't very expensive and if you are mechanically inclined, can be done at ome. Good luck!

Yes, I assume you're pulling the clutch hub. You will need a puller to do the job. If you pull it wrong you could very well break it apart then you're looking a buying a new clutch hub assembly. Go to www.harleytechtalk.org Sign up is free go to either general or twin cam section. do a search on clutch removal if you still have question just ask, you will get all the answers you need right there. It's the greatest Harley site in the world. Privately run with NO Advertisement. If you like the site. Consider donating some money to keep it going.

First it has to be good and straight where it was bent, no knuckles on the pin. Also be certain that if a castle nut is being used that the nut is turned to wher the pin is not in a bind againist one of the castle slots. It should come out under these circumstances. There is a hooked tool called a cotter pin remover that is helpful if it will fit and you have the room for it. Good luck