20 Most Recent 2006 Yamaha yZ 125 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Below is a diagram of the inner part of the kick starter. The spring clip shown is the problem. If it gets weak, it doesn't hold the ratchet gear as snugly as is needed. It is best to install a new clip but often you can just squeeze the clip closed a bit for a better hold to the gear. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Most motorcycle vin numbers follow the same pattern, according to your number, it is an '05.

yz,,,,125,,,, 2,,,,,,,,,g,,,,,,,,,h,,,,,,,,,,,,0,,,,,,,,,0,,,,,,,,,2,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,5,,,,,,,,,1,,,,,9,,,,,,,
dirt,,,,,mod,,,liquid,,,,,,,,size,,,,,,hp,,,,,check no.,,,,year,,,
street,,,,,,,,,,,,,,air,,,,,,,,,engine

Even though yours doesn't follow exact, it should be close. Some will use codes for the years and other stuff. Look it up on line, you should find it.
my 99 uses x for the year code and my 02 uses 02. Is the YZ a dual sport or dirt?

Hi,,,where the nut bolts on to the flywheel,,the flywheel has inner threads,,,you need to purchase a yamaha flywheel puller tool,,,this screws into the flywheel thread and has a bolt in the middle,which you do up and the flywheel pops off,,,these flywheel pullers are cheaply available on e-bay.

good luck

in my experience you have to get a new spark plug i just went through that

You have a vacuum operated petcock....so that when engine starts and draws vacuum...a diaphragm lifts in the petcock to supply fuel to carb. When the engine shuts off...vacuum is lost and the petcock closes.
If you run the tank empty....in order to get fuel into the carb and get the bike started initially....you can open the petcock without engine vacuum by rotating petcock to the PRIME position. Once started return the petcock to the ON position. If you leave it on prime....with engine off...fuel may leak into carb and run into engine and contaminate crankcase oil with fuel.

I would drain the oil you just put in and go with 20w40 motor oil. The wet clutch is not designed for 85w oil.

oem means" original equipment" manufacturing, they will always work. But aftermarket parts are fine, and usually cheaper.

go to the old auto shop and the dealer tel u the right pries

Hello
Have the battery tested I will bet is is defective, the life span of motorcycle batteries is about 2 years unless you keep them on a maintenance charger like a "Battery Tender" brand battery maintainer or its equivalent. these have two advantages, the battery is always fully charged and it at very least doubles the life of the battery...

Start by cleaning the carb inside and outside and also clean the air filter. Check for cracks in the reed valve and mounting joint rubber. This is the stuff between the carb and the cylinder. Be sure the battery is in good condition. Now stick in a new spark plug, NGK BR9EIX. Next, remove the left side case, (shift lever side ), and clean up any rust on the rotor magnets and pulser coil. Put in some fresh gas. Parts can still get parts at the site below. Don't use the "Quick parts look up", instead use the "Parts search by model". This will then let you see entire parts assemblys. www.babbittsonline.com

Is it your idle screw or air screw you have a idle and air screw Idle is on the left side with a lock nut on it your air is in the back on the same side the air screw is set at 2-1/2 round out(Screw it in way and back it out )

what oil is leak tran. or engine and where? Your engine will not run good with air screw not set.

mist on carburator or broken carburator flote spear.

pull in clutch and press shift lever down.

Maybe they meant the valve is stuck or sticking....Be sure that you have factory recommended spark plugs because I know from owning a bike that it will definitely make it backfire.by trying to run hotter or weaker plugs If you have wrong plug...gap is important also....I realize a lot of plugs will cross over but people who sale them wont discuss the fact that it could make it run ok but not like it was meant to run.....It is the same with some racing plugs...If you dont run them wide open like you are racing the spark plug will make it backfire or spit and sputter...also wont idle correctly....and todays fuel isnt what it used to be...I would run 93 octane...I dont know if you have to mix it or not but 93 is best for all...It is a lot cleaner,stronger...but dont change fuels around a lot this will also affect it...So other than carb or choke adjustments this is good advice and could be your problem or would add to a problem.The engine is designed and set to run the plugs that they recommend..........hope this helps..................................metalpoet

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

get one that is close or ask for one

At the very best, this will be difficult ... but not as impossible as you think it is right now.

If I were doing this procedure (and I have done this procedure), I would get a can of penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench is available in my area) and I would spray the shafts with this product and gently but firmly trap on the broken bolt shafts with a hammer. I would do this several times over the course of as many days. If there is enough shaft to catch with vice grips, gently try to remove the bolt while tapping on the bolt with a hammer. DON'T BREAK MORE BOLT OFF.

If this doesn't work, you will have to file the top of the broken bolt flat. Do the best you can on this. Center punch the bolt carefully in the center, of course. Get a "easy out" from your full service auto parts store or hardware store. Get the proper size for your particular bolt ... they come in all sizes of course. Also get the recommended size drill for the "easy out". Don't count on good performance from a drill you may already have in your tool box. You only get one try at this at this point. Carefully drill the center of the bolt out deep enough for the "easy out" to get a grip on the bolt. More penetrating oil, more tapping and gently try to remove the bolt.

If this doesn't work, you can get the next size "easy out" and try the procedure again. Your goal here is to not damage the engine. You just want the bolt out.

If there is still no joy, get the drill that is two numbers smaller than the equivalent shaft size of the bolt and drill the bolt out. If number size drills are not available in your area, ask at the hardware store for a recommended drill. Of course, you will have to know the size of the bolt. Find the proper size thread "tap" and clean out the hole the best you can. If you have been very careful and not damaged the threads, you will be able to use the bolt hole again.

If you have damaged the threads beyond safe usage, the next step is to go back to the auto parts store and learn about Heli-Coil inserts. Here is information on that product: http://www.noblefix.com/ The upshot is you will drill the damaged hole or holes according to the instructions that accompany the repair kit. Insert the Heli-coil and you will have a brand new bolt hole. Do this carefully and you will never have to repair these holes again.

I hope my experience in this area will be of value to you and I wish you the best with your BWS Scooter.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com. If this was helpful to you, the courtesy of positive remarks and vote will be appreciated.

In general you want to set sag for around 25-30% of the total suspension travel. Most dirt bikes are around 300mm of travel so set your sag (race sag) at around 85-90mm. Once you have done that, check the sag (static sag) without rider. It should be around 5% or so. If the static sag is more than 5% your spring is too hard. If it's less than 5% or zero then your spring is too light. This applies to both front and rear suspension.

These setting's don't have to be exact but it will definitely get you in the ballpark and help your bike to be balanced between front and rear. Also when you check race sag, you need to be in your natural riding position standing on the pegs wearing all your riding gear.

The gas line from carb goes to a shut off at bottom of tank,the gas shut off on bottom of tank will have off,on and res.hope this helps.

your kickstater spring is broken are out of place it is under the right cover (clutch cover)

darielgerban you don't give very much information about your problem.
I presume the engine is running... if this is the case then does it rev up? If the engine is performing normally but no power is getting to the wheels it would suggest your clutch is defective and is slipping when power is transfered through it.
Place the front wheel against a strong wall, start the engine and put the bike in gear, rev the engine a little and let the clutch lever out SLOWLY and see if the engine stalls when the lever is fuly out. If it doesn't stall then your clutch needs replacing.