Top 20 2006 KTM 525 EXC Racing Questions & Answers

Sounds like the pressure plate is not fully disengaging.

carb diagram wont do a dam thing for you unless you have been trained on that carb. It is as complex as a complete engine.

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
This is not an uncommon behavior and we need to locate the source of the problem and eliminate the things that are not effecting the issue.
Most probable causes: Battery, Starter Relay, Start Button, Starter.
Manually start the bike and take it for a good rip and see if the battery takes/holds a good charge for the rest of the day. If you don't have trouble starting through out the day then it's a good chance you may need to replace the battery. Recommend the use of a trickle charger to keep the charge up during the week when bikes in the garage. Part# 53 Frame Parts/Wiring Harness. http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
If your battery is known to be new or has a good charge, do you often hear a clicking sound. It might indicate your starter relay is wearing out or you have a short. Trace the wire harness and confirm insulation wear.Check starter wire and confirm the nut's tight with a good star washer. If relay - replace it. Part Number #58 Frame/Wiring Harness http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
If the battery is known good and the relay pulls in but the starter won't engage and you can hear it attempting you may have an issue with the starter being in a bind from some internal obstruction or just plain worn out. Pull it and check it. See if it engages off the frame. You may have to take it to an alternator shop and have it re-wound. New ones are spendy. http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
Starter Control Button: Reseat the connection and confirm it's engaging the relay. Part Number #69 chassis/Handlebar Controls. http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
Hope this helps you resolve your starting issue. If we can provide further assistance please advise,
Best regards,
TF

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
This is a common problem with KTM rear breaks. There is two things you need to do.

• Adjust your brake cable so it has a little more slack in it and you won't be riding it when your not breaking. Unknowingly you have been depressing it with your toe until it becomes hot and then you loose the breaking ability of the fluid.
• There is a aftermarket rear break cooler available at the KTM shops that corrects this issue. It cools the fluid and allows normal breaking. It's quite inexpensive and well worth the cost. No need to be out in the brush all the time because your breaks don't work and you constantly have to catch up with your buddies because your breaks don't work. It's hard on jerseys.

Thanks again for the inquiry,
TF

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..

Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.

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Hi, most likely your cdi unit or ignition coil needs replacing.

took me a min or two of WTF-ing to see pic and realize you meant a 2-stroke motorcycle..

try replace spark plugs

It's a bad seal of the head gasket. You need a new head gasket and to scrape every particle of debris from the cylinder head and cylinder surfaces that mate with the head gasket. Use the factory specified gasket sealing compound and do a clean job - no blobs or pools of the stuff. The head gasket should lay flat on the surface of the top of the cylinder, and you have to make this surface free of grit, leftover sealant and any other foreign matter before you put the head in place and torque it down. Start with the head bolts just finger tight and then go by the manufacturer's specs for the pattern and amount of torque to be applied. Usually it is recommended that you get to the specified torque amount in stages, going around several times and repeating the torque pattern until you get that maximum rated amount. This will prevent the seal from shifting or warping and should make the gasket seal perfectly. This is the old school method of doing this job. and I have never seen this fail to produce good results. Take your time, be clean, and you will have the results you want.

Check the clutch, adjust, clean, or replace

over full sump fuel getting into sump badly worn rings allowing excessive blow by

Worn out shift dogs.

Have you tried an emissions test? That can tell you a lot about how the combustion is doing, and what you would need to adjust at the carburetor. Have you checked the spark plugs?

Make sure the wires on the other side of the relay box are holding when you push the relay in.

Make sure cables are working . Follow it down to clutch and make sure clutch lever is actually moving. It is does then pull clutch in and pushbike backwards. Should release If not , plates are probably frozen through excessive heat. Replace them. If lever does not move when clutch handle pulled, then adjust or broken cable. hope that' it, easier and cheaper!