20 Most Recent 2005 kawasaki KX 85 Questions & Answers


Hi, Nowlid and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
11. Shift lever loose on the shift shaft.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 19, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 16, 2018


Hi, Montyrobinson your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.motosport.com/blog/smoke-signs-exhaust-smoke-color
https://www.quora.com/Why-is-there-white-smoke-coming-out-of-my-exhaust-on-my-Kawasaki-Ninja-1000
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 16, 2018


Hi, Anonymous coolant in the oil usually only comes from a few places the following scenarios will help you decide which.
1. A blown head gasket will allow coolant to seep into the combustion chamber past the rings and into the bottom end mixing with engine oil causing it to look milky. It will also burn with the fuel charge and exit the exhaust as white smoke, in severe cases, it will drip coolant from a low slung muffler. There could be a loss of compression. Another tell-tale sign is the pressure from the combustion chamber will force coolant out of the overflow at the reservoir.
2. A faulty water pump caused by old age with bearing failure or a failed oil seal. The tell-tale signs are water leaking from the weep hole and complete loss of all coolant fairly quickly causing the engine to overheat.
3. A cracked cylinder wall or cracked cylinder head and the tell-tale signs are pretty much the same as a blown head gasket.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-motocross-offroad/131713-coolant-oil.html
Coolant Leak Answer
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 11, 2018


Hi, David to perform a proper compression test you need a pressure gauge either threaded or push in. You will get a higher more accurate reading when the engine is at normal operating temperature along with burnt fingers if you are not protected or careful, cold testing works just fine and it's the method I use 99% of the time. If your bike has cams and valves you need to make sure your valve clearance is within book specs. Always blow forced air around the spark plug before you remove it to eliminate any uninvited contamination from getting inside the cylinder. Install the compression gauge, twist the throttle grip to the wide open position and kick or hit the starter button long enough for the engine to turn over 5-6 times. Record the reading and repeat the process 3 times to get the average reading. Single cylinder engines must have a minimum of 100 PSI anything less call a Priest for Last Rites, it's time for a top end overhaul. Multi-cylinder engines must have no more than a 10% difference between each cylinder, for you high- performance ******* no more than 10 lbs. per cylinder. To run on today's fuel most bikes have pistons with compression ratio's designed to give acceptable performance using an 87 octane graded fuel, this means the average compression readings on most bikes will be 125-150 PSI. I have gotten readings of 200+ on some big inch V-Twins and Thumpers but these numbers are rare and require high octane fuel to eliminate cylinder ringing or pinging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/compression-reading-for-kx85.155753
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/106903-what-compression-01-kx85-compression-test.html Kawasaki KX85 Service Manual
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 03, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Piston rings worn past service specs.
2. Broken piston rings.
3. Piston pin retaining clip failure.
4. Cracked piston.
5. Broken piston ring lands.
6. Hole in the piston.
7. Valve/guide clearance worn past service specs.
8. Worn out valve seals.
9. Crushed or loose valve seal.
10. Gouges in cylinder walls.
11. Cracked cylinder or head.
12. Blown head gasket.
13. Crankcase breather blocked or hose pinched.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-motocross-offroad/126655-kx-85-leaking-oil-exhaust-pipe-close-cylinder-head.html
85 Oil coming out of exhaust pipe
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 01, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Jul 18, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Tire Pressure
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-motocross-offroad/43828-kx-65-tire-pressure.html
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Jul 10, 2018


possible blockage of fuel cap if after running you remove the fuel cap and there is a hiss of air rushing in then the cap breather is defective try running the bike with the cap off and see if it runs ok. if that is not it then possible dirt being lifted in the fuel tank. clean out the fuel tank ensure no dirt is getting into the fuel system if that is not the case then check the carborator, i dont think it is a heat problem to test remove line from tank to another fuel source tank and run the bike and see if you have the same issue. i hope this helped. do this in a well ventilated area due to fuel fumes and exhaust gas.

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Oct 22, 2014


ring your local kawasaki dealer and give them the frame number they will have the answer from searching the frame number

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Sep 10, 2013


2005

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 01, 2013


Your best bet, if the bike is worth the fix, is to get the crank assembly, as the rod is part of it. You will need to split the engine cases to replace it. Not an easy job. Your rod should have some side to side movement, but no up and down play.

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Jun 11, 2011


No I'm afraid not. Any chance you can drill it out as it sits, and tap it? You could go with one size smaller, the bolts are not a real hard grade, punch a good center in it so the drill doesn't skip off to the side. Best of luck. It's a great bike and worth the effort.

kawasaki 650... | Answered on May 14, 2014


It has to be done by a tool called crankshaft jig.The seals are installed first then the crank assembly goes in, its a complete procedure, click the link below:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-install-crank-and-rod-on-kx85.html ----------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

kawasaki 650... | Answered on Jul 27, 2011


You will need a flywheel removal tool(try ebay) to get to the stator windings

kawasaki 650... | Answered on Jul 26, 2011


For 1997 Kawasaki KX80 the manual says torque the cylinder and head to 18ft. pounds; a torque to yield type of bolt will fail when over torqued. Otherwise there should be no problem.

Good luck.

kawasaki 650... | Answered on Jul 23, 2011


Remove cover and check if you can rotate the clutch centre without the outer moving, this would suggest the clutch centre has not seated correctly or the pushrod or opperating lever is not allowing it home all the way, i presume you measured the thickness of the clutch plates before hand

kawasaki 650... | Answered on May 30, 2011


G'day. You can acess for free an exploded diagram(parts fisch) for your bike at http://www.mrcycles.com. Go to kawasaki parts-enter year & model & away you go.
Hope this was helpfull.
regards Andrew Porrelli

kawasaki 650... | Answered on May 11, 2011


YOU DON'T GET THE END REMOVED AND MAKE A NEW KEY

kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 20, 2020


you can find some good resources here
https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+ltd+forums&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS757US757&oq=kawasaki+ltd+forums&aqs=chrome..69i57.5480j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 13, 2020

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