2017 Yamaha YZ 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity, maker and order, year make model. Question moved from Garden Equipment. It says in the link, it should be 180. Rebuild time. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Yamaha+YZ250.+Engine+compression ..

A leak on the O-ring seals on or sealing the spinning shaft. It is a known issue because a Water Pump Service Kit is readily available.

Motorcycle Water Pumps for Yamaha YZ250 for sale ' eBay

https://www.ebay.ca > ... > Motorcycle Water Pumps In addition to the parts mentioned in the Yamaha water pump rebuild kit, the Yamaha water pump itself consists of a cover, an impeller, and an impeller shaft.

2001 Yamaha YZ250 (YZ250N1) Water Pump

https://www.yamahapartshouse.com > oemparts > yam Shop online for OEM Water Pump parts that fit your 2001 Yamaha YZ250 (YZ250N1), search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542.

Water Pump Rebuild Kit Fits 2001 Yamaha YZ250 ...

https://www.amazon.com > Water-Pump-Rebuild-Yama... Water Pump Rebuild Kit For 2001 Yamaha YZ250 Offroad Motorcycle Kit includes water pump cover gasket or o-ring, water pump shaft bearing(s) and seal(s) to ... Special Features: ‎RAD Powersports Supplies ... Item Weight: ‎2.4 ounces Brand: ‎RAD Powersports Product Dimensions: ‎5 x 5 x 1 inches

• Water Pump Kit For Yamaha YZ250 2001 - Amazon.com

  https://www.amazon.com > Water-Pump-Yamaha-YZ2... Water Pump Rebuild Kit; Compatible With Yamaha YZ250 2001; Pump Gasket, Clutch Cover Gasket, Water Pump Shaft Oil Seals; Kit contents will vary slightly ...

Yamaha YZ250 Water Pumps & Components

https://www.motorcycleid.com > ... > Yamaha Results 1 - 12 of 12 - Our Yamaha YZ250 Water Pumps & Components lineup includes premium Motocross/Dirt Bike ... Outlaw Racing® - Water Pump Repair Kit.

WINDEROSA Yamaha YZ250 2001 Off-Road Water Pump ...

https://www.peakmoto.com > products > winderosa-ya... Fits the following model/s:Yamaha YZ250 2001 Includes all the gaskets and/or o-rings, oil seals to repair the water pump. Kits does not include water pump ...

1985 YZ250N, With the Fork off, Cap off, Spring out, take a clear school plastic ruler pore in 5W synthetic fork oil till it's 135mm from the top with the fork tube all the way down, till it just touches the ruler and the 135mm mark. Reinstall the spring, pacer, washer, Damping rod to cap, and install back in the clamps. I raced this bike for 18months in 1985/1986. Change the seals when they leak and toss the 38Kg Fork springs for 41Kg + springs to your riding weight. Over all was a good fork for it's time and Race tech can rebuild the fork and shock to your riding style and you're riding weight. I Miss the Fork flex on hard landings to my other New bikes. I still ride and Race the 85,YZ490 with the same fork.

From the information you supplied, I would check the air filter and air flow into the carburetor. It sounds like the Mix ratio is too rich.

Most gas engines are between 140 and 170 psi. Gauges can read differently. Anything over 140 is usually OK.

if it has a battery , replace the battery

Their should be a sight glass on the left hand side of the bike at the bottom but if mixed for a 2stroke u should know in the mixture directions.

have you cleaned the carb and got new fuel in ? ignition timing set ok ? when did you last decoke the exhaust and clean the exhaust port on the barrel ? what compression do you have ? is plug and the gap correct ?

That will happen on compresson roll back. Try slowly bringing donw the kicker a couple of times till you feel it build up on the compression stroke. Then turn on ignition and start the bike.

let me know wot your havin problems with !

A bent shift fork if pushed, will continue to bend. As this happens that gear will pop out at lower RPMs, eventually that gear will not stay engaged. You can continue with a bent shift fork like I have by shifting that gear early and not pushing that gear too hard. MGM

check clutch lever and sidestand lockout switches are ok as these will stop the motor if it thinks you're trying to ride away with the stand down

YOu can but it will just end up leaking out in a short matter of time.

PLUG COIL LEAD CDI ONE IS AT FAULT

if the bike was running fine before you replaced pipe,you may need larger jets,or richen fuel mix,also check the reed valve it may be on the weak side.try a new spark plug also if you have not already replaced it.

Judging by your previous questions,I think this is the info you need.
Setting cam timing with stock cams is relatively easy using the punch mark on the cam gears For stock timing, the punch marks at 9 O'clock on the exhaust cam and at 3 O'clock on the intake cam should align with the top of the head. If stock timing is altered the exhaust cam punch mark will either be one tooth above or one tooth below the top of the head.

1. Take out tensioner.
   
2. Remove both plugs from shifter side of crankcase, the center plug to turn, the 11:00 plug to locate the 'I' (not the H) in.
   
3. Use a ratchet on end of crankshaft (through center plug) and zip tie ratchet to footpeg with the I lined up in the timing plug hole.
   
4. With the intake cam (rear one) pointing straight back, align the punch mark on the backside of the intake cam sprocket with the top of the head. Since the slack in the timing chain is in the back, if it doesn't align exactly right at the top of the head, err slightly high. Zip tie chain to intake sprocket.
   

1. Remove exhaust cam, count 12 links (where sprocket teeth will go) from the punch mark on the top of the intake cam and mark that position on the chain with something noticeable (use a Sharpie). Hold the exhaust cam close the to intake cam with the exhaust cams pointing horizontally to the front of the bike. With the exhaust cam in this position, there will be a punch mark at the top. Put the tooth above this punch mark in the chain link you marked that was 12 or 13 over. Zip-tie the chain to the exhaust cam.
   
2. Reseat exhaust cam. The punch mark on the left side of the exhaust sprocket will align with the top of the head. It will be one link high. Go back and check that the I is still centered in the timing plug hole
   1. the intake cams point back
      
   2. the exhaust cams point frontward
      
   3. the rear punch mark on the intake is aligned or slight high with the top of the head
      
   4. the front punch mark of the exhaust sprocket is aligned with the top of the head
      
3. Bolt and torque exhaust cam, torque intake if you've had it off.
   
4. Install chain tensioner (wind it up, hold the screwdriver with two hands, use the third hand to put hold tensioner in place, and fourth hand to bolt it up, then release screwdriver and put end bolt in it.
   
5. Remove zip ties on intake sprocket, exhaust sprocket, and ratchet holding TDC. Remove ratchet and replace both plugs.
   
6. Put on valve cover and two hoses, reinstall tank and seat and go riding.
   

Please rate this a Fixya.

Seal in crankcase is leaking...

They came out with purple when some idiot running the show lost his mind. Nothing was better than the blk/yel graphics of the late 70's through the 80's. Purple **** needs to go.

Either stale fuel, blocked pilot jet or low compression spring to mindRide SafeBike-Doc

The only oil that can leak from iside your engine is from the gearbox. There is no sump as the engine is lubricated by the oil fed in through the induction system. Clean the area thoroughly and leave it for a while(overnight) then check again. The oil could just be overfill from the 2-stroke tank. By cleaning it first you are given new evidence to identify the leak point. Hope this helps, when you have more info let me know.