2014 Suzuki RM-Z 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Carb is not a pump. Carbs depend on suction and pressure to operate. If you are not getting fuel, the fuel pump may not be delivering the fuel to the carb or the carb may not be allowing the fuel in due to a stuck float valve or a dirty jet. I'm leaning toward a dirty jet or bad fuel.

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Jul 26, 2013 | 101 views

so here is the answer straight from the manual:

Intake: 0.09 - 0.16 mm (0.004 - 0.006 in)

Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.24 mm (0.006 - 0.009 in)

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Dec 12, 2012 | 1,873 views

this particular year was very unusual because it removed the multiple inputs from magnetos and just went with a single (2 wire) signal coil (green, black) which will ultimatly go into the left side case behind the pull start. the white/blue wire goes directly to the coil. the orange wire goes to the ignition and will have 12 volts when the ignition is powered on, then go to ground with ignition off. the black/white is constant ground. this year was different because the cdi let the regulator do all the converting from ac to dc. it is also one of the haardest years to find a box for used.

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Oct 19, 2012 | 1,399 views

The bike has a slightly bent shift fork. The repair requires a complete engine teardown. Special tools needed include a torque wrench, impact driver, flywheel puller, and case splitter. This repair is not recommended for the novice mechanic. There are a lot of parts involved and just one mess up can force you to take the engine in a basket and plead with the dealer to reassemble the parts. The dealer will charge you more to repair a basket of parts than if you had just let them do the repair from the start. Below is a generic diagram showing how the shift forks, ( your bike has three ), move slider gears left and right to engage other gears. Please rate my answer. tombones49_122.gif

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Apr 28, 2011 | 598 views

you can do it just need patience and time, if your motorcycle has more than one carburetor be sure not to interchange the parts because there are jets not in the same number. thanks!

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Apr 26, 2011 | 227 views

Compare the old cable to the new cable. The outside casings should be the same length and the Inside cable should also be the same length. The dealer may have supplied you with the wrong cable. If the cable is the correct one then check the positioning of the clutch release cam.

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Mar 30, 2011 | 139 views


its normaley located under the seat on the frame

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Mar 26, 2011 | 227 views

Possible you ran out of fluid before refilling...or maybe didn't get bleeder closed tight when you released brake pedal, and some air got in the lines. I'd just bleed it again.

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Mar 12, 2011 | 138 views

Yes, it sounds like a complete engine gearbox strip!

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Jan 16, 2011 | 110 views

you may expect no lower than 10 hours because you have to remove motor and dissasembled and you may expect to reshim a valve or two that is too tight at the same time.....we rebuilt a kx 250f 2008 last week and rebuilt the crankshaft and change valve guide and reangle valve seat for 12 hours r&r.....

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Dec 31, 2010 | 65 views

The site listed below has exploded view diagrams of all sections of your bike with parts named. This will show location of your idle screw. The diagrams will also show how the kicklever goes together.


Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Nov 07, 2010 | 621 views

it depends on what you have for a suzuki ? if you have a road cruiser, you have to remove lower
case cover on left side of motor, this will expose linkage adjustment rod. do not try too much
adjustment, work with it little at a time. it has a wet clutch.

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Oct 20, 2010 | 112 views

You have rust in your gas tank causing the needles to stick open. Check the filter on your fuel petcock or add an additional inline filter. Or you have worn needles in the carburetor. Disassemble clean and replace. You possibly have a malfunctioning vacuum fuel petcock that is bleeding fuel past vacuum diaphragm. Rebuild the vacuum petcock with a K&L rebuild kit or replace it with a new petcock that will also have a new fuel filter on it.

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Sep 24, 2010 | 352 views

I am not certain exactly what bike you have so consider the diagram below as generic. Chances are the float needle is sticking open a bit. A bit of trash may be stopping it from closing fully. The overflow hose is where any "excess" gas is dumped. This hose vents to the open air. Be sure to turn off the gas valve (petcock) at the bottom side of the tank when bike is not in use. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Dec 01, 2009 | 361 views

how is this possible have you over tightened the plug before get back to me

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Oct 11, 2009 | 24 views

about 22.1 oz. give or take a .1 oz. or two

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Jun 30, 2009 | 197 views

timing and fuel/air mix

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Apr 01, 2009 | 829 views

Hi, Steve for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Suzuki... | Answered 12 hours ago | 14 views

Hi, James and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Suzuki... | Answered 12 hours ago | 20 views

Hi, Kristi and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
11. Shift lever loose on the shift shaft.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Suzuki... | Answered 12 hours ago | 16 views

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