20 Most Recent 2012 Yamaha YZ 125 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

the wiring or components are worn causing resistence--getta repair manual for the detailed tests----------also when at home run an electric fan at motor when stopped--it cools it fast and gives air cooled engines 3 times the life span

Most common mistake that I've seen that causes this problem is as follows...Many throttle cables have 2 nuts on the threaded end that goes to the carbs...these should be fitted so that one nut is above the bracket and the other below.If they are together above the bracket the throttle will be jammed open...

Time to have the carburetors or carburetor synced up and adjusted. The Air/Fuel mix is off. Remember to rate my solution.

try cleaning your carb out and make sure the magneato is not rusted

If you have a spark, but weak. It is possible that your flywheel is demagnetised. Then you'll need a spare.
If sparks are good, then the spark plug should be moisted with fuel after a few ( 10 ) choke kickstarts. If so you'll have a weak compression. Then you have to at least clean out the piston ring grooves ( dismount cilinderhead and cilinder ), or even change the piston rings or overbore the cilinder and place a new oversize piston kit.
If spark plug stays dry when kickstarting, the carburettor is faulty. Clean it out, check also the choke system. Check the air intake between carb and cilinder for air leaks.

Motorcycle transmissions share the engine oil. When you drain the engine oil and change it you are draining and changing the transmission oil. Good luck

The float from the carburetors bowl no longer closes the fuel intake valve because either the float has a leak and it has stopped actually floating or there is something wrong with the valve: either it's worn out and it no longer closes or the plunger gets sometimes stuck and the valve remains open when it shouldn't.
You will have to dismantle the carburetor and inspect the float and the fuel valve - replace the defective or worn parts and clean the entire carb.

anti clockwise is leaner, if you need to adjust more than quarter of a turn something else is wrong

check for fuel filters. sometimes you have to remove the fuel tap from the tank to clean a small filter on the pick up.

There are two coils on the bike. The pickup coil inside the flywheel and the high tension coil with the spark plug wire attached. If you can see arcing at the mount bracket where the high tension coil mounts to the frame, either the coil is bad or the plug wire is bad. Some coils allow replacement of the plug wire, some don't. Chances are you will need a new coil.

The VIN is the frame number. There should be 17 alpha numeric digits if the bike was manufactured after 1982. Find the frame number then go to the site below. If the number has been altered or read incorrectly, the site will tell you " Check validation sum failed". Good luck getting a new title. They will want to know where the original title is and why your name isn't on that title. http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/kawasaki.asp

Yes, Been there done that. I have myself a cbr600 Honda street myself. Because my bike is a 1988, not the prettiest , I myself did not want to spend a lot of money to protect the hoses that were exposed. So, what I did, Is i went down to Home Depot/Lowels and looked in there hot water/plumbing section and found several hoses, heat resistant wraps and **** them and put them around hose. It was real cheap too. I bought all i need for several hoses for lest then 15 bucks. Still have left over too. It is the same stuff they use for the hot pipes and connections for hot water heaters. Other option is almost any appliance store as well might have this same type of material. It worked for me, so I hope it works for you too. Thanks Mike, from Fixya PS. now if your talking about covering the whole area, like a plate or piece of fairing or something of that sort and not just the hoses, you can also find stiff material, that is water proof, and stong, that you can cut to size in that area, and attach a couple clips to secure it. Thanks Again, Mike

The best thing for you to do is to go to your nearest Yammy Dealer and buy a good manual specific for that bike/engine. If there is no dealer near you, you could order one by phone from a dealer.

There are going to be a good many adjustments, and procedures, and tolerances that you will need to know, plus some special tools, and all of that will be in the manual. It will have complete engine, and chassis breakdown pics, and all procedures for complete teardown and rebuild.

The chances of you finding all you need to know online are pretty slim, and you will need a manual later, anyway, just to properly perform the maintenance on the bike/engine.

full to the cap, if it has an ovefflow bottle there are mark moulded into the plastic, if there is no overflow bottle it may lose a little water occasionally when it gets hot, and will need topping up.

You mean transmission??? 10w 40 will work, or Bel-Ray makes an oil for that purpose, ask at a bike dealer.

The gear oil amount is stamped on the clutch cover in ML's, should be 650. The only other fluid you can change is the fork oil, and that capacity is 570 ML each leg. Good luck!

The crankcase is full of fuel. Pull the plug out and kick it untill the fuel clears out. If your float stuck in the carb while the gas was on, it will fill the whole crankase with fuel. Check out the carb to make sure the float valve is working after you're done. Good luck!

If it's a M8 x 1.25 thread, the torque will be 30 NM. I don't have a 83 manual, but from 96-present torque was the same. It also is the standard torque for any fastener of this size. Good luck!

I would check to make sure that the cable is not frayed anywhere that could make it stick. Also make sure the cable is lubed up good and slides freely. make sure that your twist grip on the bars is working good also.

There is a glass window on right side crankcase Oil and trani fluid are both the same there not seprate MOPAR KENNY