Moto Guzzi Motorcycles - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

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what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

it sounds like the solenoid secondary circuit has failed. Carefully stick a screwdriver between the 2 larger posts and the starter should spin.

there are mg and english car clubs all over the world find such a club near you and the help from the members makes owing the car a joy

Yes it is

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?

pull the plugs and using a piece of soft wire insert the wire into the plug holes remove the rocker covers and turn the engine over slowly watching the wire move up and the rockers movement at a point you will see the wire stop coming up and then start going back down move the crank back and forward until you get no movement and that is TDC At the point one set of valves will be fully closed and the other set will be in the rocking position ( movement either way allows the exhaust to start closing and the inlet start to opening at the same time that is when you adjust the valves clearance ( tappets ) on the closed valves having done that turn the engine over 360 degrees and the valves positions will reverse so you can adjust the next set when at tdc from the wire check what letter is at the pointer and that will be TDC letter the D and S will be italian for tdc and ignition

Just a thought as you asked...sounds like a poor throttle position potentiometer ... throttle cabled to butterfly most likely and if ECU dosen't know throttle plate moved you will see this symptom . If electric throttle , can you see(hear) plate moving whilst twisting , if so measure resistance/voltage on pot. . I do not know if resistance of position sensor can be measured while twisting throttle or pushing plate (bike off , battery disconnected or ignition off) Luck Hugh

vent the tank , leave the fuel cap off and run the engine see if the warning lights go out.

oil leaks during use indicate a loose bearing adjustment allowing the oil to move past the seal lip when rotating I would be checking wheel bearing condition and adjustment, oil level in that section and wear groove for where the oil seal lip runs reasoning is , when the wheel is stationary the oil is not being splashed around and will settle in the lowest places when moving , if the seal housing is allowed to move separate to the axle position ( wobble , up down sideways etc) then small gaps appear between the seal lip and what it runs on and so oil is allowed to escape if it is a drive shaft to the rear wheel check the output shaft to the wheel for movement ( bad bearings , adjustment/ preload ) or anything that will not keep the shaft in the center of the seal

Could it be immobilized? Try disconnecting the battery.

fuel leaks could be from split tank ,damaged tank fittings , hoses , faulty in carby The seller is advising you of a problem with the fuel system of the bike as he has to by law There are too many bikes of this make to have a manufacturers fault Ring a bike shop that sells the brand and ask them direct what the problems, if any, are with the bike as the seller may be focusing you on a fixable problem and not reporting a more serious fault Remember the saying --buyer be ware --so if possible you should inspect the bike personally and see what the problems are and run it your self

Is the fuel filter plugged?

Here are some links: Moto Guzzi Agostini Mandello Exhausts AF1 Racing Aprilia Parts and Accessories Agostini Mandello Tank Protector... Moto Guzzi OEM Parts Diagrams Fiche Schematics and Ordering Pro Italia

the blank one and you can check this out after the bike is running or at least when you get the coil to fire by placing the lead part of a pencil in the gap between the spark plug or a good ground and the gap between the pencil and the spark plug wire so you can see the spark jump to the plug or ground from the plug wire and if the spark flash is on the wire side of the pencil the coil the coil is wired with wrong polarity if the system is a positive ground system. The coil will work no matter what the polarity ie no matter which of the terminals you connect to power and which you connect to ground, the only difference will be a somewhat weaker spark if electron flow is reversed from what it should be i.e. if it is from negative or ground to positive on a negative ground system or as on some older British ignition systems from positive to negative on a positive ground system. The flash will appear on the side of the pencil lead away from the current flow i.e. the flash will occur as the current leaves the pencil lead. Hope this helps.

Sure, you can put any different size shafts together with a coupling with the sizes on each end of it. Even if you have to get it fabricated at a machine shop, it can be done. There's all kinds of ways to adapt anything to anything else, whether it is OEM or Aftermarket. Most of the couplings you are needing can be found at industrial maintainence shops that sell engines and pumps, generators, and the like.

Probably have to remove the seat first. Most fuel tanks are retained by u shaped flanges that grip a round rubber puck on both sides of the frame near the steering head. After you drain the fuel, lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it to the rear, it should then be free to lift off the frame.