Laverda Motorcycles - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

u can take the current ones off by simply heating them to warm the cement then pull...if that doesnt work u could use a razor blade but bake sure that u dont cut anything. you could put the wire around the grip if u want its all up to u.

when i back it up or move it forward when it is in nutral,, i cant hear it when the bike is running nor can i feel it when im ridding only when the bike is off and i roll it forward or backwards any ideas on whats wrong?,check the final drive lube level, make sure that's good. if that's ok then the problem probably is a worn worm gear that only makes noise when its moving slowly. To make sure its the drive and not tranny itself, see if it makes the same noise in 1st with the clutch in rolling it around. ,,,

I was on my way home from work when I stopped at the stop light and when I went to take off my bike just died. It started right back up but as I gave it gas it would die again. I managed to roll it out of traffic into a parking space. I tried the choke the fuel valve, but nothing worked. It would idle, but as soon as I would give it some gas it would just sputter and die. I got a ride to my house where I got my truck and came back to my bike. I started it up and soon as I gave it some gas, it died. I started it up again and gave it some gas and then it started working just fine. I revved it a few times, but it wouldn't die again. I drove it home and didn't have a problem. It seems to be running fine now. What the heck?? It only has 693 miles on it. It has almost a full tank of gas. What could possibly be wrong?,It's fuel or air related. If your bike didn't have any issues at all, no minor symptoms until it fell on its face like that, I'd wager something worked its way loose. Could be something is preventing fuel from reaching the carbs or something rattled loose in your airbox or carb boots. If something blocked off your air filter it would show those symptoms, or if you suddenly had a huge vacuum leak from a carb boot coming undone. I'd start by verifying you have fuel in the carbs by attaching a length of tubing and opening the drain screw at the bottom. Fuel comes out of your carbs, look elsewhere. No fuel, find out why it's not getting to your carbs. Perhaps your fuel line kinked.,,,

If your battery become too dead the trickle charger wont recognize the battery so it wont charge it. However in that case you just need hook two batteries together to even the charge so it will recognize it. if your battery is truly charged then its a loose wire somewhere or bad switch.

it had an incorrect seat on it and I would like to fit a bumstop style seat to the bike. It is different (slightly wider) than the later bikes. If anyody could help (even a loaner pan I could make a copy of)it would be appreciated. By the way I have some stuff from a crashed early 750GT that I have no use for and is available for trade or cheap. I don't have any bodyworkmainly forks. rear wheel airbox, that type stuff.,My memory of the 69 American Eagle is that it should have a locally made fibreglass tank, as that model was only a dressup bike done by Mr Mcormick of Continental Motorcycles. (he also badged up a British made moto crosser as an American Eagle, was it a Sprite or maybe and AJS Stormer) should be a slabby thing not unlike a cofin shape. Lance Weil of Ricky Racer had a couple a few years back and he is very near to you phone 1-800 Laverda, try him you never know.The seat should be the same width as the proper Laverda's (I think) It was only the 650 (42 in number) and the first 750 (the remaining batch up to 100) so another 58 that had the very first type chassis,quite a bit different in the way the tubes drop down to the swingarm pivot, or am I getting too much fuzz into the old grey matter, I could be wrong.,,,

Saddle Bags and a tank bag. I use RKA products which are excellent and have been using the same ones for a few years.,

but since it had a tendency to get hot during idling at traffic lights I'm not sure if it had air in it or just a low levelThe cooling capacity is 1.6 liters. the cooling liquid is composed by a mixture of distilled water (40%) with anti-freeze extra (60%). Antifreeze 960ml Distilled water 640ml. Don't mix, instead of the prescribed liquid, alcohol or other fluid with the water,,,

and was wondering if other Zane riders have a view on what's good/not good? I'm looking for something most suitable for fast winding road use rather than mainly track. I had Dunlop 207's on mine and recently switched to Pirelli Dragon Supercorsa SC 2's. The the SC's are amazing,,

According to the repair guide the year 69 had frame numbers from 1650 to 2800 but this includes GT. The frame is different from SF frames,

1.Get your supplies ready and expose your engine 2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap 3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug 4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer 5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug 6.Remove the Oil Filter 7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter 8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine 9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter Pour Oil 10.Check the Oil Level,,

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

oil blows out of the oil breather. Can you tell me the problem?Too much oil in the engine.,

32 amp brand new its been on charge for about 18 hours Acid for battery was put in by a dealer all electric functions working except the starter when the starter button is pushed there is a click and I can feel movment in a solonoid in front and just above the battery (in an ally case) all nuts to starter motor removed cleaned and re tightened Fuses checked (I can only find 2) these fuses are located behind the left side of the battery in a little black cover are perhaps there more fuses which are relavent to the starter the bike is in my workshop and I cant really get a go at jumping it on my own. I did try jumping when I thought it was the battery but it wouldnt go. I thought it was due to NO charge in the battery. Try a single jump lead from the +'ve on the battery direct to the starter motor. A screwdriver across to 2 solonoid connections does the same thing but is harder to control. You need to be careful as if there is an internal short in the starter motor you can run the risk of serious burns from very large fault currents flowing. Next is the poxy short battery negative to crank case...replace with a longer one to the actual starter motor 8m/m mounting bolt ( closest 8m/m to the barrel is more neat ). Less hazerdous is to get a cheap mumtimeter and measure the voltage across the starter motor when you press the starter button some times it is just a dirty segment on the starter motor remove plugs from cylinders, load the HT leads with removed plugs, rest against engine and engage top gear. Press the starter and rotate back wheel slightly backwards ( rocking motion ) going backwards engages the jaming roller clutch to move the starter off the dirty segment if present,,,

they light up bright but no flash. Checked the earths the battery voltage is 12.5V engine off checked the flasher unit which works on my old landrover. What could be the reason?ry cleaning the contacts on the bulbs - often they will not flash if one is burnt out or not making proper contact. You can also try and clean all the earthing points.,,,

with BTZ ignitioni am having increasing problems with it only running on oneor two cylinders until it warms up and all three kick in.Its usually the right side pot that has problems and sometimes the leftbut never the middle. With the plugs out ,the left side and centre plugs are a nice golden brown but the right plug is running rich(black/sooty),when i clean it and replace it the bike fires up like a good 'un..However ,when left overnight and started in the morning(especially if its cold)it usually only fires on the 2 left pots. Even though i'm having a few probs, this bike (when firing on all 3) is absolutely Awesome.I've never had a bike like it. , I would recomend to start at the carbs. If you have a friend with an ultrasonic cleaning-bath, buy yourself 3 gasket-kits for the carbs, totally unmount them (maybe one after the other to avoid you end up not knowing how to put them together again...), clean them, exchange all O-rings and gaskets, make sure all jets are free and - VERY important - check the float-hights and synchronize both the carbs and the choke-sliders. With little tuning on the mixture screw, it should be very reliable on starting after that.,,,

is anyone able to confirm this as it looks a little fragile. You sometimes find 2 single chains on Laverda twins and triples. I never heard that Laverda used them instead of the triple chain to cope with any problems. The version I've heard is that the triple chain has not been available for some years. Therefore the 2 single chains were used. Though I never heard of the 2 single chains crashing i personally prefer the triple version. ,,

spraying deisel on it will not keep it from rusting it will damage the bike

If your battery become too dead the trickle charger wont recognize the battery so it wont charge it. However in that case you just need hook two batteries together to even the charge so it will recognize it. if your battery is truly charged then its a loose wire somewhere or bad switch.

Under well-lit conditions look for any signs of punctures (such as nails or shards of glass) which might potentially lead to a loss of pressure or a blowout. Bulging or cracking might also occur on old tires; make sure you roll your bike forward in order to see all surface areas that come in contact with the road.,

Some common causes and potential solutions: Air/Vacuum Leak: If your Harley develops a vacuum leak in its air intake system, the air-fuel mixture becomes too rich. This can cause frequent stall outs, especially after the bike warms up. Vacuum leaks often occur due to dried-out or cracked air intake boots, faulty gaskets, or worn-out carburetor seals. When air escapes from the intake system, the fuel fills the empty space in the combustion chamber, altering the air/fuel ratio and negatively impacting combustion. Severe vacuum leaks can lead to excess fuel flowing into the exhaust system, causing backfiring and stalling while riding. Clogged Fuel Tank Filter/Fuel Injectors: A blocked fuel tank filter (due to coagulated fuel, moisture, dirt, or corrosion) impairs fuel flow, resulting in a lean air/fuel ratio. On fuel-injected Harleys, clogged fuel injectors produce similar symptoms. Regular maintenance, including cleaning and inspecting fuel filters, helps prevent these issues. Faulty Cam Chain Tensioner: A malfunctioning cam chain tensioner can affect engine timing and cause stalling. Regular checks and replacements are essential to avoid this problem. Faulty Cam Position Sensor: The cam position sensor plays a crucial role in ignition timing. If it malfunctions, it can lead to stalling and backfiring. Clogged Air Cleaner: A dirty air cleaner restricts airflow, affecting combustion efficiency. Regularly clean or replace the air filter to prevent this issue. Ignition System Failure: Faulty ignition components (such as spark plugs, ignition coils, or wires) can cause misfires, backfires, and stalling. Inspect and maintain these parts regularly. Compromised Battery Terminal Connection: Poor battery connections can disrupt electrical flow, affecting the ignition system. Ensure clean and secure battery terminals. Remember that diagnosing and addressing these issues may require professional assistance. Regular maintenance and timely repairs can keep your Fat Boy running smoothly on the road.