kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues


Hi, Mickey and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot.com/2010/08/if-your-1500-vulcan-wont-start.html
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/what-to-do-if-your-motorcycle-doesnt-start/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1037490/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic-Fi.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1356799/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic.html

1996 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Oct 22, 2019 | 47 views


Hi, Nicholas the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to the normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/136538-fuel-pump-failure.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gk6hilmqufI
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1037490/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic-Fi.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1356799/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic.html

1996 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 30, 2019 | 40 views


Hi, Jerry and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent or broken shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
11. Shift lever loose on the shift shaft.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://vulcanriders.us/forum/forum/public-forums/bike-safety-riding-tips/11157-shifting-question
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/transcendent-classic-2000-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-classic-fi-motorcycle
Kawasaki VN1500 CLASSIC TOURER Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

2000 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Aug 21, 2019 | 45 views


Hi, Ed the best way to charge a battery is slowly. I like to use this analogy, would you rather be awakened from a deep sleep with gentle nudging or a violent kick in the rear.
1. Remove the battery and check for corroded or damaged terminals clean any dirt, corrosion or electrolyte that is on top of the battery as this will cause premature battery drain, inspect for cracks and swollen/expanded sides which are a sign of overheating and replacement should be seriously considered.
2. Acid plate type batteries should be checked with a hydrometer with recorded readings for each cell to be compared with after charging readings and for sulfation, the cell will appear milky, and incorrect acid level. Fill low levels with distilled water to the upper level and remove acid from overfilled cells with hydrometer until the level is at the upper mark and dispose of acid in the sink mixed with a quart/litre of water.
3. Connect a voltmeter set on the DC scale to the battery and record the reading for comparison after charging.
4. Attach a drain hose that is not pinched, kinked, or plugged to the nipple on acid plate type batteries and let the other end hang into a plastic or styrofoam cup.
5. Connect a 1-2 amp trickle charger that has an automatic charge rate reduction if possible and let charge for 24 hours.
6. After charging recheck each cell with a hydrometer a 100% fully charged cell will have a specific gravity reading of 1.270-1.280 and 1.180-1.190 has only a 25% charge battery should be load tested and considered for replacement if necessary. Reconnect your voltmeter and
any readings in the 10-volt range means you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced. Readings between any 2 cells of 50 points or more indicate the battery has failed and needs to be replaced.
7. No maintenance AGM or GEL batteries need to have a voltmeter reading of 12.8-13 volts for a full 100% charge and 12.2 volts is only a 25% charge and should be load tested and replaced if necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.dairylandinsurance.com/motorcycle/on-the-road/safety/load-testing-motorcycle-battery
How to Test Motorcycle Battery Charging System Multimeter or Voltmeter DIY
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual
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Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual

2004 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Jul 09, 2019 | 25 views


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water, etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/212114-when-do-rejet-carb.html
How To Kawasaki Vulcan VN800 Carburetor clean rebuild 1995 2006
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual
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2003 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Jul 09, 2019 | 37 views


Hi, Dean for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.dynaonline.com/support/downloads.aspx
http://www.dynatekuk.com/downloads.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375185/Kawasaki-Vn1600-Mean-Streak.html#product-VN1600
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2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 Classic Owner Manual

2004 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Apr 16, 2019 | 38 views


Hi, Francis and the usual suspects are:
1. Both bulb elements burned out.
2. Faulty rear fender wiring harness connector.
3. Rear wheel has worn through the wire harness.
4. Tail light housing socket not grounded.
5. Bulb contacts are worn out not making contact.
6. Socket housing contacts are broken.
7. Socket housing contact pad spring collapsed.
8. Socket housing contact pad stuck.
8. Light fuse has blown.
9. Faulty or corroded ignition switch.
10. Faulty wiring from the ignition switch to the rear fender wiring harness.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electrical/22617-help-running-lights-not-working.html
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/56-vulcan-800/107009-brake-light-not-working.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPTdIOagMv0
Kawasaki VN1500 MEAN STREAK Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki

2004 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 24, 2019 | 85 views


Hi, Diana the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/136538-fuel-pump-failure.html
How to fix Repair faulty fuel pump on your motorbike motorcycle
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
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1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 21, 2019 | 710 views


Hi, Jim your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/22-carbs-fuel-system/88561-earshaved-06-black-smoke-horrible-idle-what-next.html
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/290170-soot-coming-out-exhaust-idle.html
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Feb 22, 2019 | 68 views


Hi, Paintsnow the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.denniskirk.com/kawasaki/vulcan/cable-kit
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/239441-extended-cables.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/806813/Kawasaki-Vn1500.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/vulcan-1500-1999-owners-manual-68987

1999 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Feb 14, 2019 | 893 views


Hi, Delhiebert for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/18-engine-work/1473-removing-cat-converter-2003-vulcan-1500-classic.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyH_AL7csGw
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1037490/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic-Fi.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1356799/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic.html

2002 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Feb 14, 2019 | 104 views


Hi, Archiebarbar for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/54-vulcan-1700/98114-step-step-coolant-flush-change.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZdX2UblVVM
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375187/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1600-Classic.html#product-VN1600%20Classic
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://kawasaki.com.au/download-owners-manuals/

kawasaki VN 1500... | Answered on Jan 13, 2019 | 394 views


should have a big spring nut to tighten the spring or to loosen it.how ever you want it the tighter the stiffer the shock gets loosen it softer it gets

1996 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Jan 08, 2019 | 1,322 views


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Motorcycle Paint ColorRite
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Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
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2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

2003 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 14, 2018 | 408 views


Hi, Stagg41 it appears that you have multiple issues with your motorcycle that are caused by neglect or improper pre-storage maintenance. I suggest you take it to a dealership or a reputable independent shop for diagnosis and estimate of repairs.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
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http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
Kawasaki VN1500 Valcon
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kawasaki_Vulcan_1500_Drifter

1996 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 14, 2018 | 101 views


Hi, Thomasyaryan and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Open-short-ground in the wiring between the alternator to the ignition module/CDI box to the ignition coil.
5. Faulty pins or sockets in the plug connectors.
6. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module/CDI box.
8. Faulty pulse coil.
9. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
10. Faulty ignition switch.
11. Faulty run/off switch
12. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
13. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
No Spark Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums
How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual
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Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual

2001 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 10, 2018 | 579 views


Hi, Funny_bun179 before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a jumper wire or small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bike Won START clicks won turn over Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums
http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot.com/2010/08/if-your-1500-vulcan-wont-start.html
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Drifter Service Manual
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1999 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Drifter Owner Manual

1999 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 06, 2018 | 88 views


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
The washers in this kit are to be used with ALL other clutch parts
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Clutch repair Upgrade
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual
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Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual

2000 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 04, 2018 | 174 views

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