kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 3


Hi, Wally before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

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1996 kawasaki VN... | 134 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Vulcan Sputtering at Takoff Low RPM
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Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
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2002 kawasaki VN... | 453 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1996 kawasaki VN... | 338 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Corey_stackh the "TF" is the one you use once set it will automatically set the rear cylinder timing the "R" is there for convenience for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1996 kawasaki VN... | 222 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Jeff before diagnosing your blown fuse issue check the bottom of your seat if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses also you need to fix your stator plug first before proceeding.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with and ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Ignition fuse keeps blowing
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Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
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2000 kawasaki VN... | 195 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous if you take your bike to a reputable independent shop for a specific issue that costs outrageous amounts of money and weeks of not being able to ride only to have the same problem 2 days later your situation is not unique unfortunately and it is a double edged sword. First, you suffer the emotional stress and frustration of spending all your hard earned "Drachma" and your bike does not get fixed. Second, comes the realization that not only are the technicians incompetent but also the service manager for not doing anything about it, this isn't rocket science, it's a glorified lawn mower engine with extra cylinders and carburetors sometimes. Shops know that if they keep your bike a long time and there is an issue a few days later some customers are reluctant to go back to that shop because they don't want their bike tied up for another 3 or 4 weeks. You need to put an end to all the double talk, dancing around the issue, and a "we don't care attitude", but how you ask, very simple you exercise the "nuclear option" go back to the shop and ask to speak to the owner or general manager if the owner is not there, then with a straight face and polite voice you ask him/her if they can provide you with the name and contact phone number of the owner or your brand motorcycle headquarters in your country that can recommend a repair facility that will fix your bike because your local shop either can not or will not. I guarantee you that is all the grease you need to get someone to light a fire under the proper persons rear end to resolve your issue "toot sweet" Please email me a copy of your original work order so I can use it for ammunition, I live for situations like this.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
help 97 vulcan wont move
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/66113-gears-wont-engage.html
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki VN 1500... | 89 views | 0 helpful votes


Check the positive battery cable for abrasions all the way to the starter and also to the alternator. Your battery could have a short between one of the cells.

1996 kawasaki VN... | 378 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue check the bottom of your seat if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with and ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Ignition fuse keeps blowing
VN1500 keeps on blowing fuse
Kawasaki VN1500 CLASSIC TOURER Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://www.vulcansabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Kawasaki-VN1500-Drifter-1999-Owners-Manual.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2000 kawasaki VN... | 73 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi
I would check the connection between the battery and the starter motor although its quite feasable that your starter is worn and is loading up, which makes it slow to turn and require more power from the battery.
Maybe you can remove the starter motor for testing?

2004 kawasaki VN... | 88 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Rileyjr12 I read your novella I do not understand what you are trying to say, why are you telling me what the problem could be without stating what the problem is today try expressing your issue in the form of a question that includes one or more of the following words:
Who-What-When-Where-Why
Finish your sentence with a question mark instead of a period. If English is not your primary language then write the question in your native tongue I will translate and respond in same. Finally, make sure you include the Year-Make-Model of your motorcycle or scooter. Please click on the "comment" word below and provide this information in the box provided with no limit on words and after you post it, a comment alert icon appears on my screen that will allow me to respond to your original question in another comment box below yours.
Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki VN... | 150 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Pdudley21 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Front Fork Rebuild
How To Change Oil For Kawasaki Vulcan Motorcycle
Kawasaki VN1500 CLASSIC TOURER Service Manual
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2004 kawasaki VN... | 90 views | 0 helpful votes


If you have not done so, I would suggest taking the carbs out and cleaning them thoroughly. Clean all the jets, check and adjust the float level. Check your air/fuel mixture.

Back firing is typically a sign that you are running too lean.

1999 kawasaki VN... | 116 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Tony for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Lost both keys rookie rider
Bypassing the ignition switch
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki VN 1500... | 208 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mike for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1996 kawasaki VN... | 811 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Ken for this situation I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1996 kawasaki VN... | 47 views | 0 helpful votes


to just loose all power , it may be a ground wire fault, loose battery terminal , blown fuse

1999 kawasaki VN... | 57 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Paul for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Rocker valve cover gasket replacement
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/54025-1500-oil-leak.html
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OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 88 Owner Manual

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1996 kawasaki VN... | 512 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Michael I get this question a lot and you will be pleased to know that the engine oil also lubricates the transmission there is no separate compartment for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1996 kawasaki VN... | 223 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Gorillazoe yes it does for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1996 kawasaki VN... | 625 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Jim and the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1994 VN1500 Bad Engine Vibration
bad engine balancer caused vibration fixed now with pics
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
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http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

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1996 kawasaki VN... | 56 views | 0 helpful votes

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