kawasaki KX 250 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

If it is synthesized yes.We were using these in the 2 stroke racing competition at some point and are good.

Normally water gets in through the head gasket, sometimes you can hear if the head gasket has blown. One way of finding out is to take it to your dealer and ask them to do a compression check that will tell you if you have a duff gasket. You will also notice a slight drop in performance.

cable is bound up and carb slide is sticking. Remove and clean

there are a few ways and a few opinions once the nut is tightened down to proper specs the first set of threads that are exposed at edge of nut needs to be dimpled with a good center punch it actually damages those threads so if nut loosens it will not turn past those threads I personally do not like i like to apply red loctite to threads before installing nut i have never seen a nut with red loctite back off on its on you usually have to apply heat to remove a little trouble but i think better than damaging the threads if you have to remove it again some just say muscle thru it meaning when you go to remove it again you will have to overcome those damaged threads somehow my luck i would end up having to buy new nut and whatever else i stick by my locktite. hope this helps

A clutch is nothing more than a bunch of plates held together by the clutch cable which just pulls it. First thing is you need to release the cable to see if you have a cable issue If it checks out ok then your going to have to remove the side cover and determine if the inside broke or is jammed. Its pretty basic. Its possible the clutch disks are worn out and will need to be replaced. If you still skeptical about doing this best bet is to get a haynes book for diagrams.

Look in eBay, Google, local wrekers or dealers

if you tried the clutch dry it will grab. if you tried it with the oil in it and it grabbed, then adjust the cable. about 3 mil gap on the lever.

50 50 mix

There are three positions. Usually when the handle points to the rear of the bike the fuel is off. When the handle points down the fuel is on and will feed fuel until the reserve level is reached at which time the bike will stop running. When the lever is pointing toward the front of the bike it is on reserve and it will start and run until the bike is completely out of fuel. If you run on reserve to get to a source of fuel remember to put the lever straight down or next time you will not have a reserve. When the bike is parked the lever should always be in the off position.

Its a nut and bolt job ,you may have a problem getting the calaper to fit back over the disc .If this is the case drain off a little fluid to allow the caliper piston to be pushed back in the caliper housing ,this gives the pad room to fit over the disc..If in doubt speak to your local kwaka dealers mechanic ,for some good advice .

you can use a thing called a nutsert. it works like a rivet. it leaves a steel thread captivated in the hole. i have used these 100s of times.they are brilliant. but you will need a special riveter to put them in.

change the thrust bearing.

SILKOLENE PRO RSF 5WT or use
SILKOLENE FORK OIL LIGHT
500-MLS OIL EACH LEG

shop time would be around 3 hours @ roughly $58.00 per hour depending on where you live. Split cases remove and replace gear (if that is cause) plus shop materials would cost you in the $ 245.00 plus or minus range. If you have a good mechanic/honest it can be done for less or more depending on if it is indeed just the gear. Remember ! this is for current charges in my area. I have heard of shop rates pushing $70.00 per hr

You have a couple jets in there, one might be clogged up, they are not adj, but your idle should be adjustable, You can take up the slack in the cable for a higher idle, If that doesn't do it, you have to get the slow speed jet going.Sometimes a squirt of carb cleaner will fix it, sometimes you have to take the whole thing apart and soak it in cleaner, then run a wire through every jet. Hope this helps.

then do it very cearfully,,, all you need to do it take off the float bowl to clean out the running jets,, but dont go poking whire into them as you will bistroy them,,,
to be honest it sounds like its running a bit rich,, too much fule going into the engine,, makes the plugs go black and sooty

Spray starter fluid into the throttle body if it still refuses to start, consider the timing chain or belt.

Do you by chance mean cylinder head?

If they have the same port locations and same bore dimensions they should be swappable.

You can look online at Kawasaki and see if the replacement parts have the same part number too.

THREE TEST CYCLES IS REQUIRED TO CONFIRM READING WITH THROTTLE HELD WIPDE OPEN

HAVE YOU TRIED A NEW PLUG FOR STARTER BUD