Husaberg Motorcycles - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

it does not want to go back down it jus stays running high on rpm's. can somebody tell me what might be the problemdirty carbs or an air leak somewhere between the airbox and the cylinder.,,

1.put it on the stand 2.took off caliper 3.took off axle 4. loosened chain 5. removed wheel

Make sure the bike is off . Grab the chain with both hands in the middle of the bottom rung attempt to pull it apart... one hand goes towards the front the other towards the back. If you feel a lot of play it's time to get a new one. Or grab it at the back of the rear sprocket and attempt to pull it away from the sprocket. If you see more then 1/2 a tooth replace it.,,,

depends on what material is stained.. Aluminium stains can be very tricky to get clean if not impossible...some cleaners will also cause a orange/reddish stain wich will not come out unless you use some harsh chemicals to get them out. problem is it's hard to get to those chemicals. IF you happen to have a truck wash nearby where they wash the big trucks (18 wheelers)take your parts there and tell them to use some brightener on it it's a chemical that really cleans aluminium.it may cost you a little bit of money but that stuff really works and i haven't been able to find that stuff for private sale anywhere. the number 2 reasons for stains on the bike are : 1) waiting to long to wash the bike some types of sand/mud especially the red dirt we have down south here will stain a bike if you leave it on the bike not only that it dries as hard as concrete and is very difficult to remove , so was your bike ASAP. 2) washing chemicals. Some chemicals / soaps when they are left too long on aluminium will leave stains as it reacts with the aluminium , these stains are almost impossible to get out. ,,,

you need a micrometere or vernier caliper to measure how thick they are that how you tell how worn the clutch is. the manual will list the specificational limit (how thin you should allow them to get and how do the basket and innser hub looks like). if they have small teeth on them they are worn.,

There are usually two methods to check the oil. One is a dipstick and the other is a sight-glass. You should have one or the other somewhere on the side of the engine crankcase. It should be fairly obvious and not require the removal of any body panels. If you can't find a dipstick in the side of the crankcase you will need to get down on your hands and knees and have a look for a sight-glass instead. This will be like a tiny window with a gauge against which you can check the level.

but when the bike's stood for over 4 hours it's flat Confused Even with the main switch off Any ideas?OK beg,borrow, or steal a multitester with current(amps) reading on it. 10 amps is more than ideal, but you will probably need less after initial tests. Ammeters need to be in series, not in parallel like volt testers, so disconnect one battery lead(either will do) and complete the circuit by putting the multimeter leads between the battery lead(disconnected) and the battery terminal. You are now gonna see on the meter, every amp pulled from the battery. turn the ign on and turn a light on, you will see the current rise, as amps are drawn, ok! Turn the ignition off and see what happens. Probably with it set on the 10amp scale youll see nowt, so go down the range on the meter into milliamps, and my guess is that you will see a reading. You shouldnt see anything at all with ign off, but Id guess you can see a few milliamps on the gauge. If this is the case, proceed as follows: One by one, remove the bikes fuses and replace them, if at any point the reading drops to zero you have found the circuit which is sucking the power. If that fails, try again, but one by one undo (every) multiplug on the bike, again one of em should cause the reading to drop. When you have found a fuse or a plug that causes the meter to read zero amps, check that circuit. Maybe there is a wire rubbing onto the frame, a switch corroded internally, or similar, but now you know the bit you need to fix. If you connect the meter as described and there is NO current drain, you are either special! or leaving the side light circuit on(muppet!) good luck.,,,

ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion. I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,

i always just put some on the o-ring before i put it back in but no you dont need to have oil on it,

depends on what material is stained.. Aluminium stains can be very tricky to get clean if not impossible...some cleaners will also cause a orange/reddish stain wich will not come out unless you use some harsh chemicals to get them out. problem is it's hard to get to those chemicals. IF you happen to have a truck wash nearby where they wash the big trucks (18 wheelers)take your parts there and tell them to use some brightener on it it's a chemical that really cleans aluminium.it may cost you a little bit of money but that stuff really works and i haven't been able to find that stuff for private sale anywhere. the number 2 reasons for stains on the bike are : 1) waiting to long to wash the bike some types of sand/mud especially the red dirt we have down south here will stain a bike if you leave it on the bike not only that it dries as hard as concrete and is very difficult to remove , so was your bike ASAP. 2) washing chemicals. Some chemicals / soaps when they are left too long on aluminium will leave stains as it reacts with the aluminium , these stains are almost impossible to get out. ,,,

Put it up on your stand lossen the axel and remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Then tighten your chain and lift your swingarm up until its horizontal with the ground, then the chain should have almost no play. Not completely tight, but almost no play. Tighten the axel, and the bolt on the shock, and your set,,,

but when the bike's stood for over 4 hours it's flat Confused Even with the main switch off Any ideas?OK beg,borrow, or steal a multitester with current(amps) reading on it. 10 amps is more than ideal, but you will probably need less after initial tests. Ammeters need to be in series, not in parallel like volt testers, so disconnect one battery lead(either will do) and complete the circuit by putting the multimeter leads between the battery lead(disconnected) and the battery terminal. You are now gonna see on the meter, every amp pulled from the battery. turn the ign on and turn a light on, you will see the current rise, as amps are drawn, ok! Turn the ignition off and see what happens. Probably with it set on the 10amp scale youll see nowt, so go down the range on the meter into milliamps, and my guess is that you will see a reading. You shouldnt see anything at all with ign off, but Id guess you can see a few milliamps on the gauge. If this is the case, proceed as follows: One by one, remove the bikes fuses and replace them, if at any point the reading drops to zero you have found the circuit which is sucking the power. If that fails, try again, but one by one undo (every) multiplug on the bike, again one of em should cause the reading to drop. When you have found a fuse or a plug that causes the meter to read zero amps, check that circuit. Maybe there is a wire rubbing onto the frame, a switch corroded internally, or similar, but now you know the bit you need to fix. If you connect the meter as described and there is NO current drain, you are either special! or leaving the side light circuit on(muppet!) good luck.,,,

i always just put some on the o-ring before i put it back in but no you dont need to have oil on it,

There are usually two methods to check the oil. One is a dipstick and the other is a sight-glass. You should have one or the other somewhere on the side of the engine crankcase. It should be fairly obvious and not require the removal of any body panels. If you can't find a dipstick in the side of the crankcase you will need to get down on your hands and knees and have a look for a sight-glass instead. This will be like a tiny window with a gauge against which you can check the level.

ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion. I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,

Put it up on your stand lossen the axel and remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Then tighten your chain and lift your swingarm up until its horizontal with the ground, then the chain should have almost no play. Not completely tight, but almost no play. Tighten the axel, and the bolt on the shock, and your set,,,

Backfires are when fuel travels through the cylinders without combusting then explodes in the exhaust pipe. Fuel supply/combustion issue. It seems likely there's a problem either with the mix going into the cylinders (carbs fuel lines or air intake), or with timing. These can affect a bike at particular speeds and throttle positions. If using the choke has helped at some point that's a further indication (the choke changes the gas/air mix). ,,,

i always just put some on the o-ring before i put it back in but no you dont need to have oil on it,

you need a micrometere or vernier caliper to measure how thick they are that how you tell how worn the clutch is. the manual will list the specificational limit (how thin you should allow them to get and how do the basket and innser hub looks like). if they have small teeth on them they are worn.,

depends on what material is stained.. Aluminium stains can be very tricky to get clean if not impossible...some cleaners will also cause a orange/reddish stain wich will not come out unless you use some harsh chemicals to get them out. problem is it's hard to get to those chemicals. IF you happen to have a truck wash nearby where they wash the big trucks (18 wheelers)take your parts there and tell them to use some brightener on it it's a chemical that really cleans aluminium.it may cost you a little bit of money but that stuff really works and i haven't been able to find that stuff for private sale anywhere. the number 2 reasons for stains on the bike are : 1) waiting to long to wash the bike some types of sand/mud especially the red dirt we have down south here will stain a bike if you leave it on the bike not only that it dries as hard as concrete and is very difficult to remove , so was your bike ASAP. 2) washing chemicals. Some chemicals / soaps when they are left too long on aluminium will leave stains as it reacts with the aluminium , these stains are almost impossible to get out. ,,,