Husaberg Fe 650 e - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 4

Remove the slide and then move the jet needle clip one notch lower. Try two notches if one doesn't do it.

Please rate this solution. Thanks Robbutterfie!

dennis kirk

Hi ..... The majority of throttles close with the use of a second cable and/or the return spring on the carb. Make sure you have approx' 0.2 of a movement before throttle starts to open, second cable (closing one) is 'tight', it can be adjusted at bars and carb and that the cables are correctly routed (manual will have a diagram). Try lubricating cable(s) and throttle tube on the bars. It'll be something simple .......... let us know how you get on.

There are usually two methods to check the oil. One is a dipstick and the other is a sight-glass. You should have one or the other somewhere on the side of the engine crankcase. It should be fairly obvious and not require the removal of any body panels. If you can't find a dipstick in the side of the crankcase you will need to get down on your hands and knees and have a look for a sight-glass instead. This will be like a tiny window with a gauge against which you can check the level.

If your bike was exposed to very hot or very cold weather for awhile that would be sufficient to weaken your battery. Heat and cold can drain a battery of power so it's important to check the battery hydro levels frequently and run a trickle charge during off-season.,,,

Put it up on your stand lossen the axel and remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Then tighten your chain and lift your swingarm up until its horizontal with the ground, then the chain should have almost no play. Not completely tight, but almost no play. Tighten the axel, and the bolt on the shock, and your set,,,

u can take the current ones off by simply heating them to warm the cement then pull...if that doesnt work u could use a razor blade but bake sure that u dont cut anything. you could put the wire around the grip if u want its all up to u.

This would depend on how you drop the bike. If it just falls over you would check everything on that side that could be damaged. It would be the same for a low speed drop. However if the bike not only gets droped but hits something while sliding you might bend the frame or suspension or damage wheels or controls.,,,

9 l (2.38 gallon US)

112 kg (246.9 pounds)

exhausts are a dark art.......to gain maximum power ..they will need to be of a tuned length...and of certain diameter at certain points.... if your having them made by a reputible(sp) companythey should be abe to get you in the right ball park... take into consideration groung clearance etc,

depends on what material is stained.. Aluminium stains can be very tricky to get clean if not impossible...some cleaners will also cause a orange/reddish stain wich will not come out unless you use some harsh chemicals to get them out. problem is it's hard to get to those chemicals. IF you happen to have a truck wash nearby where they wash the big trucks (18 wheelers)take your parts there and tell them to use some brightener on it it's a chemical that really cleans aluminium.it may cost you a little bit of money but that stuff really works and i haven't been able to find that stuff for private sale anywhere. the number 2 reasons for stains on the bike are : 1) waiting to long to wash the bike some types of sand/mud especially the red dirt we have down south here will stain a bike if you leave it on the bike not only that it dries as hard as concrete and is very difficult to remove , so was your bike ASAP. 2) washing chemicals. Some chemicals / soaps when they are left too long on aluminium will leave stains as it reacts with the aluminium , these stains are almost impossible to get out. ,,,

The most likely cause is that the motor is running very lean. Make sure that all of the componets for the air intake system are connected and not leaking. This can happen if you have changed to one of the new high flow air cleaners like K&N. This causes the air/fuel mixture to have too much air and not enough fuel (lean). If you can adjust the carb then make it richer.,

7.5 l (1.98 gallon US)

110 kg (242.5 pounds)

I'm worried that something is mechanically wrong with my bike. While riding at just over 60 mph yesterday my bike died right on the highway. I was in 4th and was holding it just below the powerband (about 7k rpm's). As I started to accelerate just slighty (bringing it to 7.5) it completely stopped pulling. Wtf? I mean I twisted the throttle and there was absolutely no response nothing. I wish I had listened to the bike a little more right off the bat but I thought I had a flat tire from the way the bike was wobbling so badly and losing speed. By the time I had gotten over into a turn lane the bike was just struggling and coughing before finally cutting itself off. I tried to start it back up (afraid I had blown the motor or something) and it just sounded horrible and wouldn't start. Eventually I managed to get it going by revving it really high while I kept pushing the starter button. I had plenty of fuel (which was 'on') and my oil level is fine and was changed not too long ago. I'm completely lost as to what happened and why it's now running just fine, like nothing's wrong.,I'm guess its a fuel problem, ignition problem ussually dont go away on their own, but tend to stay. Possible causes: 1. Got bad gas with tons of water in it. If thats the case, it shouldn't happen again. 2. Obstruction in the air flow. Check around the air filter to see if there is a bird or a squirell or something in there. It would have to be big. 3. Something blocking the vent lines on the tank. If it happens again, stop and open the gas tank lid. If the problem goes away, thats the problem. Look for kinked houses. 4. A piece of gunk in the carburator blocking the jets. This could have dissolved by now, or it could float away from the jet then come back later. You would have to take apart and clean the carbs. Also, drain the gas, and check the inside of the tank for rust, or other debrees.. 5. Maybe the choke was left on? Sounds extreme, but who knows...,,,

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

its more what you ride the softer the dirt the lower the psi the harder/rockyer the more psi you need normally you buy bikes with 14-15 psi

9 l (2.38 gallon US)

112 kg (246.9 pounds)