Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 2
What are the symptoms of a bad crank shaft sensor on a harley
If the sensor is bad, it'll throw a PO374 error code.
You DID check for any error codes, right?
Turn the Ignition switch to the OFF position.
Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position.
Push in the odometer reset button and hold.
Turn on the ignition switch and release the odometer reset button. The process has been completed correctly when the speedometer needle sweeps across the speedometer and all indicator lamps illuminate. The speedometer will also display "DIAG."
Press the odometer reset button once. "PSSPt" will display on the speedometer. Each letter signifies an area of the diagnostics testing, with the current selection flashing. Push the odometer reset button to scroll through the components for testing.
Press and hold the odometer reset button for 5 seconds, then release. Any codes stored will be displayed on the speedometer. If no codes are stored, the speedometer will display "NONE."
Press the odometer reset button again to view additional codes, if any.
After any codes, the part's serial number (in what ever component you're in) will scroll across.
Record the codes and refer to your service manual (or post for others to look up) for possible faults or conditions.
Turn off the Ignition switch to exit the diagnostics testing.
2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra security alarm will not disengage @
Start by pulling all fuses and reseating them.
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2006. Why does it have bad vibration at idle?
Something rotating is out of balance or perhaps it is reciprocating parts that aren't adequately compensated for.
Balancing an engine is a science almost akin to the black arts and almost everything that moves can have a surprisingly large effect. You are fortunate the vibration is happening at such a low rpm though harmonics of the original vibration can occur at higher rpm.
I remember a harsh vibration that ran through a car just above idle. The car had just had a new clutch fitted - the cause was a 5/16 spring washer had broken during tightening the clutch cover and had dropped unnoticed to the floor. Fitting a new washer cured the vibration.
Not everything is balanced on most production engines and not to a particularly high tolerance and it wouldn't be surprising if something slipped through. Balancing an engine properly is a necessary part of preparing an engine for competition - a balanced engine is less stressed and is more reliable and longer lasting. Sit in a car with a balanced engine and take it up to full revolutions and if it wasn't for the tachometer and the exhaust and intake roar you wouldn't know the engine was running at all, something that can't be said of most production engines...
If your vibration is new it could be a reason to be concerned but if it has always been there, probably not...
Harleys have been noted for vibrations in the past and it could be worth asking a local dealer for an opinion.
How to install hd self adjusting primary chain
Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.
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