If you are checking from one of the stator prongs to engine ground and you get continuity, your stator is bad. It would probably be a good idea to replace the regulator. I think Harley sells a kit that is priced fairly reasonable. But, check the rotor. I've seen one rotor that didn't have any magnetism in it. That's right, It was a genuine Harley part and the rotor had no magnetism in it. It was a friend of mine that put the stator in another guy's bike but it wouldn't charge. I checked everything and found nothing wrong except no output. Pulled it down and that's what we found. We simply put the guy's old rotor on it and it worked fine.
Take the air filter off but leave the backing plate on. Start the engine and rev it up a bit while watching the slide inside the carb. It should move up and back down when you rev the engine. Now, don't rev it so high as to blow the engine up just up to about three thousand RPM or so. Don't get your face too close to the carb. If the slide doesn't move up and down, you've probably got a hole in the diaphragm that controls the movement of the slide. That's my best guess since you didn't say it was running badly just wouldn't run over 35 miles per hour.
The functions key is also your tripometer button. so depress the trip button untill it displays the time. Now, press and hold it in untill the first number blinks.let it go. now press it quickly untill you have the correct number for that time. now with the digit still blinking, press it again and hold it in again, untill the next number bilnks. Keep doing this untill your time is what you want. and on the last digit, press and hold it in again will set you back to your normal, and you can press it to get your tripometer, time, and odometer
HarleyTechTalk
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Apr 4, 2021 - Pulled codes and got a b2206 indicating a short in run/stop circuit. I pulled the switch housing and found the wire from switch was not pushed ...
Missing: 2014 ultra Classic
First check for spark by using a known good plug and laying it on cylinder head while cranking. Leave the original plugs in. Do NOT remove them for this test. If no spark then either crankshaft position sensor or the ECU or the coil or system relay or fuses or wiring is faulty. If you do not have good electrical knowledge to check these out, bring it to a dealer. If good spark, then fuel must be the problem. Check to see if fuel pump runs for a few seconds when turning bike on. You shoud hear the pump running for a few seconds then stop. If the pump does not run, check system relay and fuel pump fuses. Note - the pump will only run once when turned on/off every few seconds. Bike needs to be off for at least ten seconds for next pump cycle. Check to see if faults codes are stored in ECU memory as these may lead you to the cause.
That's a strange one. The only things I can think of suggesting are:
Clogged gas cap vent. The next time is starts running poorly, remove the gas cap briefly and see if things improve. If so, then the cap is not venting as it should.
Moisture trapped in float bowl. Drain the contents on the carburetor float bowl into a clean container and check for dirt, rust, water, or anything else that doesn't belong there.
Dirty fuel filter. If there is one, replace it.
Air leak between carb and engine. Check tightness of clamps and manifolds for cracking. WD-40 sprayed around those areas with the engine idling will help detect any leaks.
That's all I can think of. Please let me know if any of my suggestions fixed it.
JustAnswerhttps://www.justanswer.com > motorcycle > 6vzka-20...
Jul 8, 2012 - It runs rough and loses power, it is intermittent but happens regularly. When it runs rough the check engine light does come on. It goes off ...
1 answer · Top answer: Brian : Good day and welcome to Just Answer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I'd be happy to help ...
The TSSM will not cause these symptoms. I would suggest you start from the beginning of the work you done. If the bike was operating correctly before the work was started, then for sure you have done something incorrectly. Check all fuses as is one of these is blown due to incorrect wiring, then the supply to the clock/tack could be compromised.
I have the same problem with my Roadking except it wasnt dropped. I did a full alignment of rear tire to engine, aligned the rear tire to front tire, aligned the engine and replaced the front motor mount. Nobody seems to have an answer, that I've talked to anyway. If you find a cure let me know, If I find one I'll let you know.
Question edited for a lot more clarity, plus typos.
Question moved from 'Gas Motorcycles' to model category.
You need to track the buzzing, but these come in either
carburetor or Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection (ESPFI)
My guess is that yours is fuel injected and the buzzing is the fuel pump relay.
If the serial number on your motor doesn't correspond directly to an S&S motor, it's possible that the lower end, which includes the crankcase, might be a Harley Davidson component. S&S often manufactures performance parts that are compatible with Harley engines, including jugs and heads, which might be installed on a Harley lower end. This hybrid setup isn't uncommon in customized or modified motorcycles. It might be beneficial to consult with a motorcycle mechanic or a specialist familiar with Harley and S&S components to verify the specifics of your engine setup.
