Gilera Coguar - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

One bolt .. accessed under the rear mudguard.. top centre.. once undone slide back to release the clip at rear...

look on gilera parts type it on google

U WILL HAVE TO TAKE THE CARB APART AND MOVE THE THROTTLE NEEDLE2 SPACES TOWARDS THE POINT OF THE NEEDLE.IT WILL GIVE SOME MORE POWER BUT WILL DRINK PETROL AND I DONT THINK IT IS THAT GOOD FOR THE BIKE IN THE LONG RUN

When you replace spark plugs, it is highly recommended to replace the plug wires as well, if you have bad spark plug wires you will not get any fire from them, also have your coil pack(s) and ignition module tested.

You need to add 280cc in each fork. makes the ride a bit hard but 280cc is the recommended.

http://lightbiker.wordpress.com/about-me/gilera-dna-owners-guide/try the link aboveeven i searched for the manual you're looking for but its nowhere to be found :)hope this might help you

hi, with regards to your chain, if your slacken the rear spindel bolts but dont take it out, the wheel becomes free, then you have adjusters either side on the swing arm were the spindle goes through, i belive its either a 12mm or 13mm spanner and tighten the adjusters untill the chain becomes tighter, u need roughly about hald 2 - 2.5 cm slack on the chain so it does not snap. then do up the spindle bolts and check the alignment on the adjusters, if theres both the same then your good to go. (remember to loob the chain befor you ride it though)

There may be some water in the ignition switch, shorting the signal for the lights, if you can, try opening it and blowing it with a hair-dryer, otherwise, it should dry out in a couple of days.
Hope that helps!

must be float buddy or the inlet fuel valve has gone try adjusting the carb more or put fuel on the inlet and push the float up and see if it stops the fuel flowing through get back to me buddy

could be either switch at fault, start by pulling the wire connectors off the rear switch to see if the light extinguishes, if so its the rear switch, if not its the front.

Usually when fuel is leaking from the over flow tube on the bottom of the carb this means that the float is sticking. Or the float is set to high and needs to be re adjusted. If you are going to take on this job get a service manual. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

Assuming that "tick over" means idle smoothly in USA slang, then the problem is usually mixture. I am not familiar with this particular bike, but most use a variable venturi carb. If so, then what you do is slightly raise the jet needle dashpot. By pulling the jet up, it opens the jet more slightly, and increases the mixture. If it runs better when you do that, then it is too lean. That could be a broken hose or something leaking in extra air, or just the carbs needing adjustment.
As far as exhaust gasket, if it is between 2 flat plates, then you could just use RTV silicone to seal it, or if you want to really good gasket, you can buy a small sheet of copper, put it over one side, and use a small ballpeen hammer to mark the edge of what to cut it out. A few quick hits with a chisel over some grass, and a little filing, and you will have a lifetime gasket.

is there any voltage output inside the ht cap? if not the its the cap if there is i would check the ground on the coil also have you changed the spark plug ?

Look at the sidewall of both tires. There will be a 'MAX PSI' embossed on the tire. It will probably say Max 45 PSI. At 45psi the bike will ride like a rock. At 15psi it will ride really squirrely. Find a psi at which you feel the bike handles well and rides well. One rider may weigh 125 pounds and the next rider may weigh 300pounds. The best psi for each rider will be different due to weight.

it depends where you are !

mi bueno for the ratings before thank you, if you can ask in English i may be able to help because I no habla espanol ....

may be dirt in the tank, or the feed pipe is deteriorated, clean the carb & float needle again and renew feed pipe and fit an in-line filter, ( will only cost a few pounds) it you still have the same problem then it's pretty sure to be the float needle & seat

Go to a local machine shop and have them make a new bushing.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On most vehicles, a red warning light indicates need for immediate attention. One area that this light would indicate would be oil level and/or oil pressure. On most bikes, the red light would show when IGN is first switched on telling the rider that the oil is not pumping. Once the engine has started this should go out indicating that the oil is circulating. In other bikes, the red indicator could represent the level of a 2T oil. In such instances, if it comes on with just switching on the IGN, then this indicates that there is little or no 2T oil in the reservoir. So this would be really be dependent on the make & model, whether a 4 stroke or a 2 stroke. Note: running a 2 stroke engine with little or no 2T oil in the fuel mix would result to burned pistons, rings and an overheated engine.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

The piston or cylinder can be warped and you will not be able to see it. if you have a precision hone you could hone out the cylinder and use fine emery cloth to clean the piston However if it's the front brake thats sticking only then I would think it has to do with the mechanical connections and not the caliper assembly. If it has a cable running from the hand brake to the brake cylinder check that the cable is not frayed. if it has a hydraulic cylinder undue the hose at the hand brake cylinder if the piston frees up then the cylinder has a bad check valve or junk in the fluid reservoir or hand control assembly. Let me know if you need more help with this.