Cagiva Supercity 125 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Starting issues (same engine as a mito??)
I question the repair shop more than the bike. Three repairs in three weeks and all for the same problem and they THINK the cable is the problem? What planet do they live on? Chances are you have some water in the gas. I am not familiar with Cagiva bikes but mechanical principles don't change. I am going to assume the bike has a carburetor and not fuel injection.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There is likely to be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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I have not a spark at the plug, i have tried a
Check the kill switches including the side stand switch, with an Ohmmeter. Check the fuses. Check the wiring harness. Are all wires clean and with a solid connection? Any abraded wires? Check the operation of the ignition switch with a volt ohmmeter. Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up?
If still no spark, get CDI system and coils checked at the dealers shop.
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Exhust
exhausts are a dark art.......to gain maximum power ..they will need to be of a tuned length...and of certain diameter at certain points....
if your having them made by a reputible(sp) companythey should be abe to get you in the right ball park...
take into consideration groung clearance etc,
Genral oil change
1.Get your supplies ready and expose your engine
2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap
3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug
4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer
5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug
6.Remove the Oil Filter
7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter
8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine
9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter Pour Oil
10.Check the Oil Level,,
Chain
Yes All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner.
Here's the formulation of WD-40:
80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene)
20% light lubricating oil and a bit of fragrance.
Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics:
Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals)
Buna-N (Nitrile)
Chemraz
Epichlorohydrin
Fluorocarbon
Fluorosilicone
Kalrez
Nitrile, hydrogenated
Polyacrylate
Teflon, virgin
Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals)
Neoprene
Vamac
Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals)
Polysulfide
Polyurethane, millable
Poor Compatibility
Butyl
Ethylene-Propylene
Hypalon
Natural rubber
Silicone
Styrene Butadiene
Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor.
Link:
http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent
If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.,,,
Cleaning
A bucket for soapy water
Soap or liquid detergent; automotive cleaners will work
Gloves (to keep your hands clean)
Bug and tar remover
Degreaser and/or engine cleaner
A toothbrush
WD40
A brush for wheel cleaning
Wheel cleaner
At least two microfiber or 100% cotton sponges
A variety of soft cotton towels and more abrasive rags
A chamois cloth for drying
Winter storage
what to do with fluids?If your brake fluid is in need of changing do so before long-term storage. Similarly hydraulic clutch fluid should be changed before you store your bike; both systems may suffer failure if moisture gets in.
Also make sure your coolant is fresh, as deposits can form from old fluid. For service intervals, consult your owner's manual.,,,
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