Cars & Trucks - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

This is a valve built onto your vehicles automatic transmission to help control transmission fluid flow for gear changes. To be honest, if your not good with transmissions your best option is to pay a Good gearbox specialist to deal with it. Messing about with automatic transmissions as an amateur is just asking for trouble.

Cars & Trucks | Answered 2 days ago

Most vehicles have these simply bolted into place but getting to them is the fun part. You will need to remove the the plastic trim the wiper arms stick out through. These are normally held in place with simple plastic push clips that you will need to 'pop' out. Some of these clips need the centre pin lifted out to make them easier to remove. They are not expensive and reasonably easy to get replacements for so if you break some it isn't a big issue. You might also need to remove the wiper arms to do this. They are held on with a single nut which is under a 'pop' off or a swing up cover. They should pull off BUT they will be on very tight and a pain to get off. I recommend you leave the nut on loosely 2 or 3 turns so the wiper arm doesn't smack you in the face when it suddenly comes loose.
You might need a small wooden block against the bodywork to lever against. DO NOT lever against the windscreen glass!! Windscreens are expensive!!! The wiper arm assembly should then just unbolt. Disconnect the wire connector and lift it out.
Like any job on a car this will cost you the skin off at least one knuckle!

Toyota Cars &... | Answered 2 days ago

What is this a photograph of? Is it a car or truck part? Could you comment below with photographs of both ends of the broken connector And I'll see what help i can give you.
Repairing connectors generally depends on where the connector is broken. If it is the loose wires you connect it to, or the part has a short length of wire the connector is on, you might be able to remove the connector and replace it with a new one.
**Make sure you make a note of which wire went to each pin BEFORE you remove it!**
If the connector is mounted to the actual part it will be a bit more tricky. Some of the connectors on commonly used parts are not fixable. You could try taking it back to where you purchased it and ask politely if it can be replaced under some sort of guarantee, if not, you might have to suffer the cost and buy a whole new part to replace it and be twice as careful fitting that one.

Cars & Trucks | Answered 2 days ago

you may have a short. i would probably check the ground strap from the engine to the frame. they can rot out. my 98 chevy is garage kept with 65000 miles and it looks terrible. the rest of the truck looks new. other than that. make sure the battery is good. and possibly take it in and get it checked before more damage happens.

1998 Chevrolet... | Answered 2 days ago


Cars & Trucks | Answered 3 days ago

Electronics in modern vehicles require a well regulated power system. The battery is not only a power storage device but acts as a power filter component.

You would need a few hundred farads of capacitance to replace the filter capacity of the battery.

Nissan Cars &... | Answered 3 days ago

this is not a CAR SALES FORUM

2002 Toyota... | Answered 3 days ago

The axel should just snap in a good sharp pull should remove it.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered 3 days ago

Check around the rear of the valve cover to see if you pinched a wire between the valve cover and head, if that's OK remove the spark plug and swap it with #3 and if the miss moves you have a defective spark plug. I hope this helps. Take care.

Cars & Trucks | Answered 3 days ago

Insufficient fuel... I believe that is a carburetor fuel system. Cold start instructions include accelerator pedal be fully depressed and released. See your owners manual, setting choke.

Cars & Trucks | Answered 3 days ago

If the brake lights come on with the taillights, its probably a short in one of the tail lamp sockets.

Cars & Trucks | Answered 3 days ago

seeing that this was 10 years ago... and you most likely either fixed the issue, or sold the car i will give it a go, since i currently own a 1986 Toyota Corolla Sedan (5 speed) --

the problem can range from blown fuses on the Positive terminal post of the battery; to it not making good connection with the battery posts ( i would Clean them, to rule out poor contact surface )

If the car lights up, but nothing happens when you turn the key to engage the starter motor, either the starter has gone bad, or the battery is low.

If you hear the starter Click, you don't have enough power to turn it.

If you place a booster pack on it, and it still does the same thing, it's shot. ( The starter)

If it can turn over, but doesn't fire, then it's probably spark plugs.

(Press the gas peddle about 5 - 6 times or as needed)
( This send small spurts of gas into the manifold, below the carb. Makes it easier to start on cold day. or if has been sitting for a long time. )

if it's not doing anything, then you may need to see if it's pumping fuel from the gas tank into the carb. -- This can also be caused from a clogged fuel filter.

1998 Toyota... | Answered 3 days ago


pg. 58

Cars & Trucks | Answered 3 days ago

what car? 3rd gen swift?
what year?
what country?
what JOB , cam , or spark marks?
K14B - 1.4 L (1,372 cc) (73.0 x 82.0 mm) DOHC 16-valve - this 70 kW (95 PS) engine is built in China since 2005 (alongside the K12B) for Chang'an and Changhe Suzuki vehicles.

Suzuki Cars &... | Answered 3 days ago

Seems you almost need the services of a friendly car thief.

Lots of modern vehicles have a deadlock option on the doors that when engaged prevents them being opened from inside as well as outside.
Deadlock is usually applied by two turns of the key or two presses of the fob lock button. If deadlock isn't engaged you should be able to open the door - professionals make a gap at the top of the door using a rubber air bag and unlock with a fishing tape or one of several weirdly shaped rods. I have used a series of wooden wedges in the past.

A slide hammer can quickly remove the steering lock barrel in most cases allowing the lock to be disengaged with a screwdriver but tends to damage the housing.
Alternatively removing the column shroud and anything else in the way, the complete lock can often be removed with a small hacksaw or some well applied brute force and ignorance.

Saturn Cars &... | Answered 3 days ago

Replace the crankshaft position sensor and you should be up and running like normal. Verify that there is no power or ground problem to the crankshaft sensor, the Yellow/Black wire should have battery voltage any time the key is on and the main relay is energized.Verify that the Brown/Yellow wire has a good ground. If all is good then replace.

P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) measures crankshaft location and relays this information to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). Depending on the vehicle, the PCM uses this crankshaft position information to time the spark properly or on some systems it is only for misfire detection and does not control spark timing. The CKP sensor is stationary and works in harmony with a reluctor ring (or toothed ring) that is attached to the crankshaft. As this reluctor ring passes in front of the CKP sensor, the magnetic field created by the CKP sensor is interrupted and this creates a square wave voltage signal that the PCM interprets as crankshaft position. If the PCM detects that there are no crankshaft pulses or if it sees a problem with the pulses on the output circuit, P0335 will set.

NOTE: If the crank sensor is used only for misfire detection and NOT spark timing (this varies with the vehicle), the vehicle should start and run with MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination. Also, some vehicles require several key cycles to illuminate the MIL. If this is the case, there may be no MIL illumination until the problem often enough over time. If the crank sensor is used for BOTH misfire detection and spark timing, the vehicle may or may not start. Symptoms may include:
Vehicle may not start (see above)
Vehicle may run rough or misfire
MIL illumination

A P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:
Damaged CKP sensor connector
Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
Sensor output open
Sensor output shorted to ground
Sensor output shorted to voltage
Failed crank sensor
Broken timing belt
Failed PCM

Possible Solutions:
Using a scan tool, check if, when engine is running or cranking, that there is an RPM signal.
If there is no RPM reading, then visually inspect the crank sensor and connector for any damage and repair as necessary. If there is no visible damage, and you have access to a scope, you could check the CKP 5 Volt square wave pattern. If you do not, then, obtain a resistance reading of your crank sensor from a repair manual. (There are so many different types of crank sensors that there's no way to put here which resistance reading is correct). Then check the resistance of the CKP sensor by disconnecting the sensor and measuring resistance of the sensor. (It is best to check resistance readings from the PCM connector. This rules out any wiring problems from the start. But it does require some mechanical skill and shouldn't be performed if you\'re not familiar with automobile electrical systems). Is the sensor within resistance specs?
If not, replace the CKP sensor. If so, recheck resistance reading from the PCM connector. Is the reading still okay?
If not, repair open or short in the wiring to the crank sensor and re-check. If the reading is okay, the problem is intermittent or the PCM may be at fault. Try reconnecting and checking for RPM signal again. If there is now an RPM signal, wiggle test the wiring harness to try and induce the fault.

This code is basically identical to P0385. This code P0335 refers to Crankshaft Posistion Sensor "A", whereas P0385 refers to Crankshaft Position Sensor "B". Other crank sensor codes include P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019, P0335, P0336, P0337, P0338, P0339, P0385, P0386, P0387, P0388, and P0389.

Hope helps.

2006 Jeep... | Answered 3 days ago

I have encountered this only once and it wasn't really the central locking that was at fault. I wasn't able to find the fault.
The car I owned at the time would auto close the windows and sunroof when the doors were locked.

When the doors were locked the brain would switch each window motor on and when a window had closed the brain would "see" the motor current increase and switch it off.
With my car the driver door window would switch on and fail to switch off - hence a drained battery. I changed everything I could and studied the wiring diagram until I was seeing double but nowhere could I see how the windows and central locking talked to each other.

Finally I was forced to disconnect the central locking.
Regardless of my experience diagnosis will always begin with a wiring diagram, especially with modern comuterised cars.

Cars & Trucks | Answered 3 days ago

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