Question edited for clarity and CAPS.
Question moved from Misc to model category.
In general terms on a transverse V-Block, Bank 1 is closest to the firewall.
Sensor 2 is _always_ the one AFTER the Catalytic converter. Sensor 1 is in the exhaust manifold BEFORE the cat.
Confirmed here
https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+Lincoln+MKS+3.7+-+V6.+Location+of+bank+1+sensor+2
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the FSM covers that
factory service manual
the generic answer works 99% of the time,
unless some cars is engine jackup off mounts job.
1: remove neg lug of main battery. (posted here 1000 times)
2 safe off that lug by warping it with a towel (rag)
3: gain access to the starter per FSM
3b: some cars have a tin metal shield there , must be removed
4: remove all wires to it. at the solenoid.
5: unbolt it now and it falls off.
RDX , special steps
Remove the clip and remove the coolant reservoir from its holder.
Remove the clips and the support rod clamp bracket.
Disconnect the condenser fan motor connector. Remove the condenser fan shroud assembly.
Remove the harness clamp and connector. Remove the intake manifold bracket.
Disconnect the electrical connectors from the starter. Disconnect the harness clamps.
Remove the starter retaining bolts. Remove the starter from the vehicle.
that test means 2 things. (depends on how bad it is)
the PCV system is bad. clogged up PCV valve.
or engine is a wreck, with huge blow by gasses seen here.
this video is diesel
but all cars made can do that with ICE engines. for same reasons.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hJh9dw5JO3k
your engine is GAS
2.3 L K23A1turboI4
bad RINGS or far far far worse.
change oil at 6k miles, not 10, not 20k or more.
oil gets dirty no matter what oil you use.
every 6 months is be.
81k miles is low but how many oil changes done in the span of miles not told.
do the PCV valve first. is it can suck out all those blowby fumes fully.
and hope for the best.
you drive with that cap off, never do that.
the cap off test is parked car test, ONLY !
this is a door lock only question, seems not.
car drives day and night OK right? NO !?
all fobs for doors have a battery the fob
and at 10 years old it is for sure DUE. a coin cell
even walmart sells the coins. but more important is....
START word said: (will not crank? too?)
so the key using in the ignition is dead too.>
well we test the cars main battery first. (any dead car)
we charge it , using a tool with the same name.
we load test it. at 100amps if fails it is no good bat.
then
we jumper cable jump start the car (call AAA Autoclub for a jump?)
if the main car battery is weak, all electronics on the car fails.
even doors and ignition both.
the car came new with 2 keys, lost the 2nd?
oops.
my guess this is a dead engine no crank or no start car.
my guess is the IMMO lamp is dead on the dash
it never glows , even the self test mode fails keyon. fails.
or the IMMO Glows wrongly, telling you that is a dead key
the glove box users guide tells what to do and how the lamp IMMO glows.
IMMO means Immobilized.
well all cars , if owned and driven far enough. but lucky you it is simple.
the shifter lever cables are bad.
i pure simple shift cable mechanical reasons.
in fact the FSM book even cover how to adjust them and test them fully
with new transmission stalled (in that chapter)
FSM steps .:USA car , A/T box
Remove the upper steering column shroud.
1. Remove the lower steering column shroud. a. Remove the screws.
b. Remove the lower steering column shroud.
Position a 0.6mm (0.023 in) feeler gauge between the gearshift lever selector and the gearshift lever detent.
2. Place the gearshift lever in the DRIVE position and hang a 1.4 kg (3 lb) weight from the gearshift lever. ( cute no//?)
1. Loosen the gearshift cable adjuster to adjust the cable then tighten.
2. Remove the weight from the gearshift lever.
3. Place the gearshift lever in the PARK position and remove the feeler gauge.
. Install the lower steering column shroud. a. Position the lower steering column shroud.
b. Install the screws.
1. Install the upper steering column shroud.
the cables are bad or damage or fell loose are not adjusted by the book.
Rompa82 we have no such car in USA> PRADOso no FSM book to read about thatnot told you(piggybackjacking) Toms postQ1 never told countryQ2 doe all other things electric in the car work, can you start it and drive it? and all other external lamps works front /rear and side) tell both the good and bad. or the job is x10 more hard to diagnose.first off the hazards on our cars work key off.so you can flash them even if you lost the keys, in some dangerous place.no Prado HERE usAThe Prado may also be referred to as Land Cruiser LC70, LC90, LC120, LC150 and LC250 depending on the platform. In some markets, it is known simply as the Toyota Prado or the Toyota Land Cruiser. NOT ONE CLUE TOLD BY YOU , LOCATION.AS IN NO COUNTRY TOLDNO VIN TOLD FIRST 11 DIGITS.SEEMS TO ME IT IS A J120 CAR. WITH 7 ENGINES THEN 2006called generation 3 by toyota.the problem may be the hazard switch is simply bad.but I have no schematics for cars outside USA>yes that will drain the battery flat easy and fast.Id say in 2 to 4 hours the starter is now dead.keep it on charge (a tool)hazards and head lamps and park lamps (10 or more) all work key off.but that is our laws , only, we dont make laws for others.we run DOT,EPA and NHTSA here.are you located in JAPAN speaking EnglisHor India, UK , Africa or in the lands down under,?or where?lighting laws are not the same world wide,so................. learn to post your own post on your cars facts and not piggyback others. or get lies you may.never say my problem car is same as others, and win.post your VIN left first 11 digits nails it.
Hello
the horn on a 1998 Ford Explorer, you can follow these steps:
Check the Horn Fuse: Locate the fuse box and check the horn fuse. If it's blown, replace it with one of the same amperage. The owner's manual can help you identify the exact location.
Test the Horn Relay: The relay sends power to the horn. If the fuse is intact, try swapping the horn relay with another one of the same type from your vehicle's relay box to see if it resolves the issue.
Inspect the Horn Itself: If the fuse and relay are working, test the horn. It's located in the front grille area of the Explorer. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there's no continuity, the horn may need to be replaced.
Check the Horn Button/Switch: The issue might also lie in the steering wheel's horn button or switch. If it's faulty, it may need cleaning or replacement. A malfunctioning airbag clock spring can also affect the button's functionality.
Examine the Wiring: Look for any frayed or disconnected wiring, particularly near the horn or switch. Damaged wiring may need to be repaired or replaced.
If the left side still works, its not the blinker relay, the thing you hear ticking. Both left and right signals go through the same signal stat. Turn on your hazard flashers and make sure the bulbs on both the left and right side come on. If the do, you may have a problem with the turn signal switch on the steering column itself. If only the left comes on, it could be bad bulbs on the right side or a wiring issue. Wiring issues are more rare on Park Aves.
