Check to make sure you are getting voltage to the small post on the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the "crank" position. if so, check all of you connections on the battery cables. If your connections are all good, your cables are in good shape, and you still do not get the starter to crank, I would have the starter removed and tested.
Your dealer is not lying to you.
All of the Toyota product line with ABS has this phenomenon. What Toyota has done is incorporate "Brake Force Distribution" into the braking system. What that means is there is now a sensor on the brake pedal/brake rod, going to the master cylinder. The sensor measures how FAST you press on the brake pedal. This activates the ABS pump, and supplies more brake fluid, harder, to reduce the time needed, such as a "panic stop"; the pedal travel is much longer than you are used to, because of the way they have to measure the speed of the rod being depressed. In actuality, this system is much better than the old system, as it also prevents wheel drag. It just takes a while to get used to. Really, there is nothing to worry about, I explain this same thing to my customers every week.
Two bolts a little neck twisting 5 mins...
Look under the dash follow the wiring from the blower any two of them will lead you to the resistor. It's in the air box about.
Cold weather: Cold temperatures can affect the performance of the engine and make it harder to start.
Battery issue: A weak or failing battery can cause the engine to take longer to start.
Starter issue: If the starter is worn or damaged, it may struggle to crank the engine, especially in cold weather.
Ignition system problem: If there's an issue with the ignition system, such as a faulty spark plug or ignition coil, it can cause the engine to crank for a long time before starting.
Viper DS4+ installation issue: The Viper DS4+ remote start system may not have been installed correctly, or it may have a defect that's causing the issue.
NO ENGINE TOLD AT ALL OR VIN OR COUNTRY.3 ENGINES USED. 2.4, 2.7 AND 3.4v6FIRST OFF LEARN THIS FACTTHE MACHINES AT NGK SET ALL PLUGS TO 0.045" NEVER TO 0.45 ( i CAN THROW A HAT THROUGH THAT CRAZY WIDE GAP)SURE YOU MISSED A KEY ZERO.SURE.AND EACH MAKER PLUG USES THERE OWN DEFAULT STANDARD MACHINE GAP . (FACTORY)NOBODY MAKES A SPARK PLUG FRONT 100,000 ENGINES. NOBODY. THEY ARE BY HEAT RANGE AND SIZE.THAT MEANS SET THE GAP TO OEM TOY SPEC.NGK CATALOG ONLINE EVEN TELLS THAT SPEC.IDLES HIGH COLD OR HOT ENGINE OR BOTHNOT TOLD AND IS A KEY FACT NOT TOLD.THE SPEC ISIN THE SMAdjust the spark plug electrode gap. Electrode gap for new spark plug is 1.0 to 1.1 mm (0.039 to 0.043 in.).BEST IS 1MM SET, AND THAT LOWER SETTINGALLOWS THE GAP TO WIDEN IT IT AGES AND RUN LONGER AND BETTER.NO PLUGS TOLDTHE OEM TYPE CALLED J PLUGS ARE SET PER ABOVEBUT SOME ODD DUCK BOSCH SURFACE FIREARE FACTORY SET (BOSCH) AT 0.063 AND NOT ADJUSTABLE AT ALLSO AS YOU LEARNED SPARK IS COMPLEX./FOR SURE RUNNING ANY KIND OF ODD PLUGS.SOLD NOW.ID RUNNGK 7090 G-Power; Pre-Set Gap: 0.040" Info OE-Recommended Gap: 0.044" SEEN HEREhttps://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2001,tacoma,3.4l+v6,1375343,ignition,spark+plug,7212SEE NEXT POST ON JUST IDLE. WRONG.
if it were me and i'm not a pro.. remove the driver side door panel and i would waste a little more wire and wire it straight into the power door lock on the drivers side that way you should avoid and computer issues as you know you are wired in behind the relays again I'm not a pro i'm just a weekend shade tree guy
Surges can be from vacuum lines. Check them. Especially the rubber parts. If they are collapsed or soft/spongy, replace them. Next I would clean the mass air flow sensor and the inside of the throttle body.
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
Free wiring diagrams are normally only available to small sections. for a full wiring diagram, you need to buy a service manual.
Google
1995 Toyota Tacoma (the part) wiring diagram
https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+Toyota+Tacoma+wiring+diagram
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Hi,
if all of the bulbs are good then there might be a circuit issue within the car itself in regards to the lights. Please make sure that you're battery isn't past it's primary (ie using a 1 year battery for 2 years). If not, please take your vehicle to the nearest autozone or advanced auto parts in order to help diagnose the problem. They should provide a basic diagnosis at no charge. Thank you.
Mixture too rich. Make sure none of the injectors are leaking (any o-rings). Disconnect the battery to try and clear the ecu- sometimes it stores data on how the engine is running to adjust the fuel/air mixture. It may need to "reset" and start from scratch.
Question edited into written English and even the name of the make and model!!
Question moved to make model category.
You need a good local auto-electrician. There are safety sensors and modules involved that allow you to remove the key. You are bypassing the lock solenoid by disconnecting the battery and cutting power to it to release it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me
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