Toyota ECHO - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 5

take off the little plastic cover on top 4 bolts take out the coils mark them remove the wiring harness out of the way then take out the valve cover bolts don't forget the 2 on top of the cover the rocker cover is ready to come off there is also 2 hoses on the rear of the cover has to be removed

Under the steering wheel

it is on the bottom of the tank that holds the fluid

It should be in your owners manual

on top of the starter

The unit with the fan in it comes out separate you shouldn't have to remove the radiator

do your car have air conditioning that's the only thing it can be.

are you getting a check engine light if so read the codes and see what it tells you them cars had a lot of problems with the box located under the rear of the car back from the tank just check out that system

inside the car on drivers side there is a small panel you have to remove should be there also there is a fuse panel located under the hood drivers side by the battery

check the switch for the blower on the heater unit it's the one for adjusting the speeds I had to replace one on mine it was faulty

it seems to me that it was flooded so it had too much gas left in the dash pot don't press the gas at all when starting because as soon as you turn on the key the fuel pump will send the right amount of fuel you need to your system keep track of it and if it continues to do this check your fuel pump

It might be a faulty plug I have bought new plugs and all 4 were bad hard to believe but true

Just a guess but it might be your fuel relay fuse check out the fuse panel on the outside fender wall drivers side and there's one inside the car drivers side there's a little panel that comes off to get at it hope this helps

Time to go see a transmission specialist.

did you try another h/L bulb?

I also have a Echo and would suggest:
Air filter, spark plugs. If it is still sluggish I would then replace the upstream 02 sensor. The fuel filter is apparently lifetime so it should be okay.

Brother Mark, I know just what you mean. What happened is that the wire on the end of the cable has pulled out of the hole on the lever at the control because the cable has dried inside the housing and needs lubrication. Near impossible to do without taking it out, then mas as well replace the cable. Most likely the lever on the control valve that shuts the water line off at the firewall has stiffened up and caused you to force it and pulled the cable out at the valve in front of you on the firewall under hood. I don't know pricing on this stuff because I always do my own work. I build my vehicles, not buy them. Either way, it's the water control valve and cable that need attention. I just open the valve with pliers under the hood for winter if I don't feel like changing it right away. the other stuff on the control panel works fine.

Disconnect the negative cable for a few about 15 minutes. The Reconnect it and let the ECU(Engine Control Unit) reprogram itself. Sometimes this works. But sometimes it does not and you will have to see a professional to check the ECU to see if there are any electronic problems. Try to take it to a good mechanic and see what they are doing. Just watch ...if you know anything about cars or you don't will not matter They will get nervous anyway and not try to cheat you. Just ask them to notify you when they will work on your car.